Hey all wassup??? I have an AEM EMS 1050 box on a car that was originally OBD-0... I have notice that when im cruising on the highway and not getting on it with my lights off or just the corner lights on the car runs fine... When I turn on my headlights and fogs ( 91 DA Integra ) the car tends to hesitate and kinda gargle like its running rich at partial steady throttle... I have heard that haltech engine management systems have a battery voltage compensation map... And I was wondering if the AEM has one as well...

Thanks alot ladies and gents...

 

yes the ems has a battery compensation table.. you should set it to the injectors you have.

 

Make sure not to cough near the ems, kick it, sneeze in it's direction, or look at it funny.

We had an AEM #1052 that if you gently tapped on the box it would crap out and cut the engine. Also they're software is buggier than a swamp, wouldn't datalog at higher rpms, etc. AEM just told me to use some of their older software, yeah it worked then, but why in the world would they release software they told me had this known issue. When we got the box back the second to last time before they just totally replaced the unit (works ok so far now) they sent a repair sheet that said parts of the circuit board were shorting out on the case and they put in parantheses next to it, "Very, very,very rare", like it doesn't happen to all of their electronics. Bullshit.

Plug-N-Play my ***, no OBD2 support, no support for stock narrow-band O2's, instrument cluster looses functionality, base tunes suck *** even on a totally stock S2000, etc.

I've also had two of their widebands crap out, gauge type and box type controllers and when we switch them with an Innovate setup they work flawlessly. Good stuff.

AEM CAI's , AEM EMS's and WBO2's

 

would a grounding kit help..? i noticed a differnce on my car when i had a grounding kit. i did a test turn on the lights, blast the ac and radio and roll up all the windows at the same time. It started flicking and after the gounding kit its still smooth like nothing was on.

 

backpurge... you had one box that was odd, you have no idea what you are talking about. any software is going to seem buggy when you dont know how to use it. maybe 1-2% of ems's have problems, which isnt bad when you conside the number they produce, its pretty acceptable to me. They tell you that **** wont work before hand, if you dont like it dont use it. It's funny, you have so many problems, i have sold/installed/tuned hundreds of these things with very few problems. We have sold probably 20 wb guages in the last 2 months with out any coming back. their old ign boxes were garbage though.. the new ones appear to be better, we have several on the road with about 5k miles on em and no problems


grounding everything good may help, it does wonders on evo's and alot of older cars.

but there is an injector wizard, use that to set the battery offset.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">backpurge... you had one box that was odd, you have no idea what you are talking about. any software is going to seem buggy when you dont know how to use it. maybe 1-2% of ems's have problems, which isnt bad when you conside the number they produce, its pretty acceptable to me. They tell you that **** wont work before hand, if you dont like it dont use it. It's funny, you have so many problems, i have sold/installed/tuned hundreds of these things with very few problems. We have sold probably 20 wb guages in the last 2 months with out any coming back. their old ign boxes were garbage though.. the new ones appear to be better, we have several on the road with about 5k miles on em and no problems
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Hmmmmm... I don't know how to use their software, that's why it's buggy. Um no, if you read I said they gave me some older software and it worked fine. AKA, their new software was buggy.

And then you go on to say their stuff is great though 1-2% of the EMS's have problems and their old ignition boxes sucked. So AEM is great but some of the their stuff is ****. Thanks for being a dick and reiterating what I said, AEM electronics are shitty.

You really have to love a wideband that can't be recalibrated. Any wideband is going to deviate from the real A/F over time by being contaminated with burnt oil/coolant/sulfur (found in gasoline), etc. So have fun second guessing your POS AEM wideband when you're tune seems to be off according to the wideband or your car is running differently because your standalone is relying on an incompetent device to give it accurate information.

If I were in a race and lost because the EMS I used crapped out whenever I hit a bump, I'd be pretty pissed. If you want I can post the letter they sent me saying that their product was broken.

Then again, maybe you just have lower standards.


Modified by backpurge at 5:26 PM 5/19/2006

 

I know someone whose AEM took a **** on them twice, once on the dyno and it blew his motor.

My AEM wideband is 2yrs old and kicking strong

 

I currently have a 1050 box and have had no issues with it.

I've had zero issues with the software, no bugs, car idles like stock even with my large cams.

I would recommend this standalone to anyone, but like JDogg said you gotta know how to use it if you want it to work properly

 

Obviously problems with the AEM EMS are very, very rare.



After they sent it back it was still broke . Ended up talking to the owner then we finally got a new box.

Oh yeah, btw I'm just a retard with a Mustang chassis dyno. I just pretend to know how to tune cars so I can blow money on **** I don't need.



Modified by backpurge at 11:06 PM 5/19/2006

 

backpurge..you don't like aem ems, but you put it in your sig to tune? lol

 

Seriously, I haven't even dealt with a standalone that had absolutely no bugs or issues at all... Every brand name out there at a competitive price has its own issues from hardware to software, but the reason I chose AEM is the large circle of cars that are running it. With the vast amounts of available information, at least the problem isn't some weird unsolvable problem and there is always a way fix to it.

I am sure we've all seen cases when an electronic device flickers/freaks out with vibration. I've seen stock ECU's do that when they were damaged (ie: after a minor car accident, been dropped, etc..) With so many AEM EMS units produced, it's not surprising that the unit was dropped/damaged before it got to your hands. And their software is actually one of the best, with many versions to choose from. It's pretty obvious that newer isn't always better in the software department, so it's great to have a reliable tested and true "older version" to go back to. Newer version simply means more features, and if you don't need them, leave 'em. I've been through the same type of problems with many other systems on the market and I see no urge to go insane over such a common issue

About the wideband issue, I am particularly interested in gettting more information about it. So where do you go to recalibrate your wideband 02 if it gets contaminated? Will the next wideband dyno shop you go to have a brand new fully accurate sensor for you to tune with? I never gamble this way, so I have one mint wideband sensor and one sensor meant to be driven everyday. If I ever suspect the wideband to be out of tune, I pop in the new sensor and datalog the readings and compare it to the old sensor. Simple as that. Most likely though, if your closed loop and A/F is tuned nicely, the sensor self cleans and would last just as long as any other O2 sensor. I have the AEM UEGO in my Integra for the 3rd year now (over 35000 miles), and it is not even 0.1 A/F off compared to the new sensor I have, as well as a new gauge type UEGO in my other turob car. So far so good

 

There's this one standalone that Holley makes, it's called the Model 4150, never had one glitch with one of those.

Innovate Motorsport's LM1 and LC1 both allow you to do a free air calibration with a push of a button. http://www.innovatemotorsports.com


Modified by backpurge at 11:28 PM 5/19/2006

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by backpurge &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There's this one standalone that Holley makes, it's called the Model 4150, never had one glitch with one of those.
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I wouldn't want to get a glitch on one of those, because you'll be the only one...heh It's cool though, nice to see something new everyday


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by backpurge &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Innovate Motorsport's LM1 and LC1 both allow you to do a free air calibration with a push of a button. http://www.innovatemotorsports.com
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I completely forgot about that feature on the Innovates Well, my real statement was about how the problem could be prevented with a good tune, and most likely it is better to pop in a new sensor anyhow. Eventually the sensor has a lifespan, so sometimes the recalibration gives a false sense of security IMO. Reminds me of a dyno shop I know that had a tail pipe sniffer with the same recalibration ability, and it took several cars with a f*cked up tune to discover that the sensor was bad although it gave a AFR readout still and was technically "recalibrated".