If you monitor the coil in the parameters window whiel you are driving you will see it goes on and off. Now by this I am assuming this means on=charging and off means it discharges?
Is this a correct assumption?

After reading some more in the aem manual it says if the dwell settings are set to high it will make the car act as if it is misfiring b.c the coil is charging for to long. This is the oposite of the problem I had before. I just changed my dwell settings to a lower number and car has it ***** back.

 

I was just monitoring this yesterday. Coil1 is supposed to do that. Your dwell setting should be right around 20.
Glad to see the ems back again.

 

yeah that is what it was set on with my version .73. But aem had it set over 40. I read today that if that is set to high your car will act like it is misfiring.
The car works good until it seems like it gets warm then it breaks up. I monitored each injector and they are all saying the same. As soon as it started to break up I pulled over and check the resistance of the coil to see if that was breaking down. It all checked out okay. I also pulled the plugs and they were fine. I am at a loss right now. Everytime I think it is running good it then craps out. Is there anything else to monitor while driving
The symptoms are like a coil is braking down or you are hitting a rev limiter. The car bucks and breaks up. And looses power. RUnning out of things to check.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by underpressure02 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah that is what it was set on with my version .73. But aem had it set over 40. I read today that if that is set to high your car will act like it is misfiring.
The car works good until it seems like it gets warm then it breaks up. I monitored each injector and they are all saying the same. As soon as it started to break up I pulled over and check the resistance of the coil to see if that was breaking down. It all checked out okay. I also pulled the plugs and they were fine. I am at a loss right now. Everytime I think it is running good it then craps out. Is there anything else to monitor while driving
The symptoms are like a coil is braking down or you are hitting a rev limiter. The car bucks and breaks up. And looses power. RUnning out of things to check.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I am going through the same stuff... One day, it will drive like a champ and feel strong in all types of driving. The next day, I feel like I'm losing power, bogging under acceleration, overall just very inconsistent feeling. My A/F is good, ignition is good, plugs are good... The inconsistency is what is killing me, I just don't have a clue as to what variables changed

 

what version are you running? When you say it is bogging how bad. Mine is like riding a bull it is bucking so bad almost makes me sick Looks like when you are trying to learn how to drive a stick and you do not give enough gas. Let me know if you figure anything out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by underpressure02 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what version are you running? When you say it is bogging how bad. Mine is like riding a bull it is bucking so bad almost makes me sick Looks like when you are trying to learn how to drive a stick and you do not give enough gas. Let me know if you figure anything out. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I am running .94. It bogs VERY badly occasionally, as in no power for a few seconds and the bucking you are talking about. I notice it happens mainly below 4k when I give it WOT or near WOT.

 

K I have similar situation. BUt mine will flutuate between 3-4 where it will start to bog and break up. My a/f is fine. Tested coil that is fine. When your's bogs does it go away or do you have to let your car sit over night until it cools down? Then in the morning it is fine? B/c once mine starts it does not go away?
What is your setup? Engine, Injector size, map sensor? Have you had your board replaced or any other problems with the unit itself?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by underpressure02 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">K I have similar situation. BUt mine will flutuate between 3-4 where it will start to bog and break up. My a/f is fine. Tested coil that is fine. When your's bogs does it go away or do you have to let your car sit over night until it cools down? Then in the morning it is fine? B/c once mine starts it does not go away?
What is your setup? Engine, Injector size, map sensor? Have you had your board replaced or any other problems with the unit itself? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yup, my A/F is good as well. When it bogs, it usually will continue to bog for the duration of the drive or the rest of the day... It is drivable, it just needs to be babied, hard acceleration causes it to bog or hesitate most often. B18B bone stock, MSD 680cc, Walbro 255lph, GM 3 Bar, MSD Digital 6+ & cap & coil, etc.. I have not had my board replaced but I am running coil driver #5, because #1-#3 would not spark or died within a day of working. I have no clue as to what causes this, the weather is very mild where I live and I have not noticed any patterns based on it.. I run Chevron 92 always, from pretty heavily trafficked gas stations, so that is pretty much always the same. Same plugs. Essentially nothing changes except the day. It's a conondrum

 

You have almost the same set up as me. I have a stock 95 ls motor with 78lb injectors, Walbro 255lph, gm 3 bar, I am actuallyusing my stock honda map sensor right now. I am running stock ign b/c I would liek to figure out the problem before I go and install my msd. My coil driver 1 went about 2 hours after having the unit back. I am now pined in a22 coil driver #2.

Once mine starts to bog and hestate it is all over the car is drivable but very hard to drive. Have to let it sit for the night then next day it is fine for a little bit.
I spoke with Justin from Protech last night. He said that soudn liek the coil or icm is heating up and breaking down. He said it willusually take around 45 to and hour to heat it up to the point will it will act like that. He said to check all my wires again and make sure I did not have anything grounding out or a ground off. Also I am going to flash back to version .89 and see how that goes. If it eliminates my problems.

I posted a little blurp to aem yesterday since they never pick up their phone or return phone calls.

http://www.aempower.com/bbs/viewtopic.php?t=3264

 

Check your warmup enrichment tables. It richens it up at startup based on the coolant temp. It is also in there to cool the engine down at high temps by adding fuel. With those big injectors and the engine getting a little heat, it may add too much fuel. Adding 10% fuel on 800 injectors is a LOT different than adding 10% more fuel on 440 injectors (If you based your map on one of the base maps like I did)

Thats the only thing I can think of now. If you want you can try my basemap. I had similar bucking problems, but after a couple hours of the automap, Its running very smooth. I had a problem before when I used a basemap that didn't have the January 9 Date on the file. When my engine got hot it would not restart.

 

see that is the thing. I street tuned my car had a really good a/f ratio. when it warms up, is when it does it but a/f stays the same. Thanks for the suggestion though. I checked that b/c I thought it was either leaning out or running to rich.

 

underpressure,

Do you want me to send you my map? My car drove fine. i had 85lb injectors. All you would need to do is change the fuel map and ignition map. Maybe that would work.