i was planning on buyin ARP head studs so that i can use them to torque my head to my block. i thought that ARP were supposed to be the best. but ihave read post that people are having to retorque the head studs because they are becoming loose every now and then. then they blurt out that AEBS is better.

im not tryin to jump on any bandwagons here,. i just want head studs that are the best.

i am also confued as to why some people say "head studs" or " main studs" i hear people refer to all kinds of names. does this mean if i buy say like the arp head studs from CAMP1320.com for 105 dollars liek they say they im only going to get head studs and i still have to buy MAIN STUDS separately?

and lastly i see people alwyas asking sellers of head studs on this board if they can sell them just the washers or just a certain type of bolts. why are so many people asking for just washers or certain bolts?

isnt there a complete head stud kit i can buy? i hate this buying everything separately crap.

 

I'd go with ARP yet i'm bein sorta shady towards aebs cause they don't price match & their sleeves are better than everyone elses but no proof to back it up...

 

when you byu the ARP or AEBS head studs you get the washers, nuts and the studs them selve. Most people who are justlooking for the washers and nuts either lost them or want new ons.

Both arp and aebs work great.

I prefer the aebs with the dimple at the bottom over the ARP units but both work great for the price

 

i have been hearing that a lot of AEBS's parts are high quality.... but i have seen their intake manifolds brand new for only like 160 bux. if their parts are such high quality why so cheap priced then?

i was going to order AEBS head studs from camp1320.com tommorrow but i am having second thoughts and maybe leaning towards the ARP studs.

can any one vouch for their quality?

 

i dont know much about the aebs but i dont think you can go wrong with ARP...theres COUNTLESS people import and domestic that use arp with awsome success.

about the re-torquing, i had also heard about that and when my friend got his gsr motor built, we went back in just to double check and they wouldnt budge

 

dont u have to remove the valve train like cams and **** just to retorque the head studs? if so that sucks

 

yes you do have to remove the valve train it does suck especailly resetting the cam timing and everything thats why aebsi s the way to go never backed out a thread yet.

 

be careful with aebd if u run lsvtec because they are not made to work if u use a certan kit to relocate the dowel pins contact them to make sure they will work for your application.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nextelbuddy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dont u have to remove the valve train like cams and **** just to retorque the head studs? if so that sucks </TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah taking it all out sucks, but after you have done it once its really not hard, just takes a couple hours to do it all...if someone's did back out it might be due to not prepping everything good before putting the studs in...clean and run a tap through the threads, and use the moly lube on both ends of the stud to get a good torque...i think eitherway you should be fine, but im just particular to ARP cause thats what i use and have been proven in the past.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18bturbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes you do have to remove the valve train it does suck especailly resetting the cam timing and everything thats why aebsi s the way to go never backed out a thread yet.</TD></TR></TABLE>

oh ok so basically once i torque the head down with AEBS head studs i shouldnt have to retorque them again right. just once the correct way the first time and then never again? as long as i dont remove the head again right?

 

I like AEBS head studs because they look beefier.

 

Arp and aebs headstuds are both good. I just sold ur buddy danny my used arp headstuds and i'm now running aebs for business reasons. Headstuds and mainstuds are 2 different things. Headstuds for head, mainstuds for main caps that hold the crank. Replacing mainstuds isn't totally necessary but i would recommend headstuds. Go with which one u can find for a better deal. Paul

 

I use AEBS headstuds because of the little dimple they have on the bottom tips of the head studs to prevent bottoming out in the installation and stripping the threading... they have a great design.

 

I used AEBS head studs. Ron Bergenholtz installed my head and I had bought a set of used ARPs on ebay but got gipped because two of them where too long. He had a new set of AEBS at his shop so I went with those. No problems. They look beefier when side by side. I also like the way the nuts clamp together when torqing them down. Don't have to worry about the head of the bolt snapping off. I think it's stronger that way.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboTegB18c &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Arp and aebs headstuds are both good. I just sold ur buddy danny my used arp headstuds and i'm now running aebs for business reasons. Headstuds and mainstuds are 2 different things. Headstuds for head, mainstuds for main caps that hold the crank. Replacing mainstuds isn't totally necessary but i would recommend headstuds. Go with which one u can find for a better deal. Paul</TD></TR></TABLE>


hey paul. im getting the AEBS head studs from CAMP1320.com for 115 shipped. wen i instal them do i have to retorque them after 1000 miles like u have to with the ARP studs? i heard that the AEBS studs u dont have to do that with

 

That's what I got!

 

retorquing is always good whether aebs or arp. I retorqued the arp's last tiem and they didn't need them.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nextelbuddy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">.... but i have seen their intake manifolds brand new for only like 160 bux. if their parts are such high quality why so cheap priced then?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't under stand this mentality, V8 guys pay the same price we pay (for the majority of their parts), they get twice as much product per order, and we complain & question reasonable prices on quality items.
I just think its retarded how some people are willing to pay $900 for a mugen valve cover, thousands of dollars for type X cams, Etc. The market for honda peformance parts is out of control. And whats worse, people questioning quality parts at a reasonable price.

Not to attack the thread creator, just venting.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by leadfoot78 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That's what I got!

</TD></TR></TABLE>

are those the AEBS ones?

 

Those are AEBS head studs. The ARPs don't have that dimple at the end. I have always used ARP head studs and they work great. Both kinds will get the job done.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nextelbuddy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

oh ok so basically once i torque the head down with AEBS head studs i shouldnt have to retorque them again right. just once the correct way the first time and then never again? as long as i dont remove the head again right?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Id like to know this as well.... I wasn't aware that you had to retorque the head studs again?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Irishweird00 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Id like to know this as well.... I wasn't aware that you had to retorque the head studs again? </TD></TR></TABLE>

can anyone confirm this?? i really cringe at the thought of having to take out the cams and valve train just to retorque head studs that are supposed to be the **** and then havto reset the timing.

 

Yes..... I don't like that idea either... because im a lazy bastard... ONCE is enough for me.

 

Hands down use the AEBS. First off they are a couple bucks cheaper....which helps everyone. Second off, seems like every honda motor I built using ARP's I will tq the head down then let it sit 24 hours then come back and re-torque and they relaxed a bit. AEBS has the dimple on the end and are actually a little thicker in diameter.
To comment on the above about LSvtec. You wont have a problem if you spend the extra cash and get a good dowel setup like the ones available from Full-Race. This is my setup for my LSvtec.

 

Also you dont need to re-torque after 1000 miles. Although I havent tried to see if they needed it, but it says in the instructions that it is not needed.