Bonesaurus_Rex

Hi, I just got a 1995 eg hatch with a d16y5 swap in it with an Si tranny and y8 head. i was wondering if you guys could help me decide on what to do with it.
I was thinking either build it or boost it. im not looking for crazy power, around 250-300 is where i want to be at.
im looking for reliability and cost efficiency. ive heard you cant really build my engine so just boost it. if so what are good kits for my ideal hp range?

Any help is appreciated

Thank you

P.S. i already have buddy club racing suspension and skunk 2 camber kit with beak lower tie bar and purple blox LCAs

eghatch9295

iTrader: (1)

boost. rule 1- never chase numbers. you will grenade engines/spend tons of money. you can have plenty of fun with a t25/14b on low boost.

24TEN

iTrader: (2)

Your use of "build it" seems to imply that you think you don't have to build it for boost. And while that is true in the literal sense, it doesn't mean don't. Hope you understand that.

Bonesaurus_Rex

Yes, i was thinking build it OR boost. I don't want to be scared to drive it. just get more enjoyment out of it.

Bonesaurus_Rex

Thank you for the advice, i was also wondering if you, or anyone else, knew of good places to get a turbo kit. would you advise going through a shop for everything? or install myself? i know how to work on cars, im not a beginner. i know you have to get it tuned but is that all i need a shop for? do shops usually have good prices?

Thank you

mudko3

Talk around a bit, maybe join a car club and see what people use. I personally prefer to do things my self and learn what exactly to do, so if you have prior experience.. DO IT,but take your time. Pm if you need more to talk about bud , also check out the FAQ for more ideas and guides

B_Swapped93

300whp on a turbo'd D will run you into the 4k+ area easily and get the idea of an all motor sohc out of your head it's the biggest waste around.

Bonesaurus_Rex

Update, i found someone who used to work in a tune shop who will install and tune for under $400.
now all i need is a good turbo kit.
Is it best to buy a kit or buy each part individually? Ive seen kits for cheap on ebay, but the classic "ebay turbos are horrible" is why i dont want to jump on that.
i read around on some other forums and it sounds like if youre not a jack*** with it and dont try to shove p.s.i. down the turbo you will be fine.


Any help is much appreciated

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Stay away from him.

Anyone that knows what they are doing won't sell themself that cheap.

A good tune on a dyno will run you about 300-500 and take 2 plus hours for a complete tune. Not no wot and idle bullshit tune.

Get a small turbo stay under 250whp and the motor will last you a long time. 300 is possible but its pushing it.

Don't rush start shopping around and don't do it cheap. The cheaper you get the less reliable it will be.

Bonesaurus_Rex

http://www.turboneticsinc.com/store/...product_id=530
is the turbo ive been looking at, it seems like a good choice. there are just some more places i was going to look at, like garrett.

Bonesaurus_Rex

http://www.turboneticsinc.com/sites/...0Matrix%20.pdf

is the chart i got that turbo off of

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

It doesn't look like anyone has said this, so I'll go ahead and point it out: You are not going to reliably get 250-300 BHP out of your stock rotating assembly, period. Put some forged internals in along with a turbo, and sure, 250-300 is easy, but stock rods will snap like toothpicks at those power levels.

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Ummm no they'll hold 250whp just fine.

There's a single cam thread full of them.. sorry bruh

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

References thread, doesn't lost link to thread...suspetice

Longevity and reliability will be severely impacted past the 200-220 mark. On top of that, what one dyno reads as 250 could realistically be 225 - we all know how unreliable numbers can be when compared across dynos.

Can you do it? Sure. Should you do it for a daily driven car? No.

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

At the end of the day its a single slammer


Throw a rod? Pickup another bottom end for 50 bucks.

And that thread is here somewhere I just don't wana find it...

Don't test my gangster again..

Bonesaurus_Rex

Why shouldnt it be for a DD?

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Because most people expect a modicum of reliability and longevity out of a DD. You don't want it to spit a rod and leave you stranded on your way to work, or while you're out of town. It's just not a good idea.

Bonesaurus_Rex

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw...at=0&_from=R40

are the kits bad? CXRacing and Conrod

Bonesaurus_Rex

so youre saying get better rods? im assuming H beam. should i get new pistons too?

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

CXRacing is Chinese crap. Don't waste your time on it, especially not on anything even remotely critical to the functioning of your car.

Eagle rods are the way to go for an affordable, reliable rod. Yes, you'll need new pistons. OEM pistons use a press-in wrist pin, whereas aftermarket rods use a floating pin. There are a decent number of options out there for pistons, but on a budget, I'm a fan of Wiseco, CP, and Supertech. You'll also need to replace your bearings. OEM or ACL. While you're doing all of this, it would be silly not to replace your head bolts. ARP. Done. None of this is even taking into account supporting mods that aren't strictly necessary, but would be a very good idea. Good tires can get pricey. 300 WHP with an open differential is no fun, unless you want people wondering if a squid just came through. Having power, but still having the garbage handling of a stock Civic? Yeah no.

Building an engine isn't as easy as "slap some rods in it and you're done". You can do it the cheap, lazy way and have a ticking time bomb under your hood, or you can do it the right way, get all of the necessary parts, install them properly, and have a solid, reliable little engine. Basically, if you want to go faster for cheaper, toss a small'ish turbo on there, get it tuned for 200, and have some fun. If you don't mind spending some cash, do all of the above, toss a slightly bigger turbo on it, get it tuned for 300, and have some fun.

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

What about timing belt, water pump, tensioner, mounts, shifter bushings, radiator, injectors, ems, gaskets, thermostat, thrust washers, oil pump seal, rear main seal, axel seals, valve seals, resurface the head, pickup tube gasket, .......

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Like I said, the pile of other supporting mods that aren't necessary, but would be a damn good idea.

Injectors and EMS should be a given for ANY FI application, regardless of how built the engine may or may not be.

slomofo

iTrader: (1)

D-Series are getting harder and harder to find these days, good luck finding em for $50; this is probably the reason why the OP has an HX block with an EX head.

I actually did a B16 swap into some old lady's car two years ago because she couldn't find a used Y8 engine in the local wrecking yards, not even a core engine to rebuild. Her son found the complete B-Series swap for cheaper than the price of shipping a Y8 engine in from out of state.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

^^This must be where YOU reside. unfortunately, its the other way around in most of the U.S.

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Not sure if trolling...... I'm backing out of this. You could go at it with the shodan.