skaraider

ok so i have two different problems. but here is the layout for the car before I begin.
94 civic b17 turbo, I have a thicker raditor, the downpipe sits about 3 inchs from the rad but its wrapped pretty good with exhaust wrap.

So the car doesn't over heat until i kick in and let the turbo spool up, i can drive around town and baby it and the temp stays nice and right where its suppose to be. then if i get on it and the turbo spools up then it slowly over heats.. This is DAY 1 of driving the car on the road since the engineswap/turbo add.
I bled all the air out of the coolant system, running straight coolant not the 50/50. new thermostat, good water pump. Im out of ideas..

Next is my throttle problem.
When i start the engine it idles fine.. if i rev it up a few times it will ide down to about 100-400 which sucks, i can drive fine but when i stop or shift down to first to slow down the engine cuts and dies. I can't figure it out, I have all brand new vacuum hoses, the TPS is good the IACV is good pulled those from a working B series. Im out of ideas. Not sure if this helps but before I hit the throttle to take off at a red light it kinda acts as if i don't hit the peddle and then goes like it stalls.

Any help would be great and its sunday so i have all day to trouble shoot.

skaraider

anyone

alperx

what FAN do you have ?

skaraider

Electric fan that turns on when i start the car 12" and yes it's pulling air not pushing

alperx

I think it is the fan problem. we had such issues before. out on the stock fan and tryout.

skaraider

so u want me to try my old fan? this one seems to be pullin alot of air, i could put this one on the front of the rad to push and use the old one to pull.... maybe


whatcha think?

J240sx

Have you checked the Map? I would go back to basics and check for vacuum leaks. As for the overheating, how does the oil look? Milky? Maybe the coolant temp sensor(for the gauge) is faulty. If the fan is working, radiator is not clogged, thermostat opens up, and the head gasket is not blown....then you should not overheat. Check all that I listed.

skaraider

radiator isn't clogged and is brand new, thermostat works correctly, coolant sensor is also new, oil is the color it should be not milky, vacuum lines are all fine. The overheating didn't start until I put rest of the exhaust on, on the way to the muffler shop i didn't over heat, on the way back it over heats with the exhaust on. The downpipe next to the rad is wrapped very good.

The stock fan is on it now doesn't overheat as bad and goes down to normal when i stop at a light.. but still doesn't explain the overheating problem

justYncredible

iTrader: (1)

what type of radiator is it? if its a cheap one then we are in the same boat. they cant flow correctly or something, im actually going to replace mine this week from a local radiator manufacture

skaraider

yeah its kinda cheap... i think it cost me 80 bucks on ebay, wondering if it would be better to put my original rad back on there till i get a better one.

justYncredible

iTrader: (1)

if you can fit i would do it

i should have got one in town for my build, because if i would have ran into any issues i could just go see there face to face

skaraider

yeah it will fit because the new one is thicker... hmmm

skaraider

so turned the top radiator hose away from the exhaust, it doesn't heat up twice as fast now, but still over heats.. doesn't make it all the way up its about 3/4 of the way up Im still stuck, i dunno if its that radiator or not.

Slacker93eg

Heat wrap exhaust, install air ducts

skaraider

already have it heat wrapped. and not sure how I can get more vents unless i get a new hood.

SiRCiviC94

Sounds like a case of the noob. So first. Your car is running straight anti freeze? Not water or a 50:50 mix? Hm.

Next if the fan works take some wire and jump it off the battery or bleed the system is should
Come
On.

Now, change your headgasket

Because I can beat my car all day no heat wrap nothing fans don come on during driving (maybe racing) but at idle. So you should be able to hit 300hp through all the gears no over heat no messed up sounds. Fix The hg and get tuned

Btw my rad is a hong kong single core 40$. I ran 10 runs at the track np and dd boosting al day

skaraider

im not loosing coolant anywhere and my oil is fine. and yes its straight coolant.

Ill try to bleed the system again I know its gotta be something simple.

skaraider

so i got all the air out of the system, my dad came over that is a mechanic and he says maybe the gauge is grounded somewhere which is making it flex like it does, but we road around for about 15min came back and the water wasn't boiling so Im not sure if my Gauge is bad or not, its the stock gauge.

still very unsure, but it can't be anything else unless my thermostat is faulty but its brand new..

4drEF

What water?

"SiRCiviC94" already mentioned this to you.
... but you don't seem to respond to advise very well so why do you bother asking for help on how to fix problems?

Coolant modifies water to a different boiling temp.
The water is what does most of the thermal heat transfer.
You removed all the water.
Now your water cooling system is not operating correctly.

You have successfully made your water cooling work inefficiently and ineffectively.
Good job in making the engine run hotter!
You are also running the risk of the coolant gelling up because you don't have water in it.

Follow the directions on the container of coolant and do the 50:50 mix.

0Kaze-Speed

Hi, I would definitely do a compression/leak down test. Make sure everything is good with no leaks, and I would make sure the headgasket isn't leaking.

skaraider

So im confused on what your trying to say.. Im running straight coolant, so you want me to try the 50/50? I was under the impression that 50/50 warms up faster than straight coolant. And the part where i said the water isn't boiling is I ment Coolant. There is no water in the system.

and yeah Im going to do a compression test tommorow, thanks for the suggestion.

skaraider

yeah ill try the water thing also. Ill try that when i ge thome and take it around the block

skaraider

what should the compression be around?

4drEF

Anitfreeze was never engineered to run by itself.
Just like Kool-aid wasn't meant to be used without water.
Water is what does the cooling in the engine (not the antifreeze/coolant), but it boils and turns into vapor.
Adding antifreeze helps the water from freezing in cold conditions, but it also raises the boiling temp of the water, and it also keeps the fluid path healthy.

I'm sure you are right that the 50/50 warms up faster than straight coolant.
That's exactly what you want to happen.
I'm sure 50/50 also warms up faster than if you filled the radiator with sand.
Does that mean sand is better? no.
The water 'soaks' in the heat (read up on thermal transfer) from the metal around the combustion chamber and then water is cooled down again in the radiator.
Antifreeze does a terrible job at soaking up heat compared to water

For even better cooling, you can run all water with a small bottle of water wetter.
I would recommend against that unless you are building a race engine and draining the system very frequently.
The glycol antifreeze has corrosion resistant properties that help keep the fluid path healthy.

skaraider

ok, sounds good ill do do the 50/50 mix today as per instructions and then give it a spin around the block.