TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Or be a baller and get it cerakote treated..

93h2beg

i have a friend of a friend who does this... my friend had his b16 valve cover done, strut bar and a few other accessories. I wasn't impressed with the actual finish. it looked very splotchy. maybe just not good at it?
What about anodizing?

I love the pics of the different setups. as for the air to water, I am looking at a full on setup, small radiator with fan, water pump, tank and atw cooler. I figure I could mount the small radiator horizontally in the back bumper with the fan.

I have a 700HP(ish) 543 CI fuller roller aluminum headed Barracuda, there is no mistaking it for a slow car. the stealth sleeper look i dig it, even if it adds a bit of complexity. We will see, like I said i just started to research it.

Both are great looking civics guys. mine is not that nice.. makes it look more sleepy.

93h2beg

2kdrift- where the hell are there mountains in FL?

93h2beg

I just realized that 3 of my 4 oil squirters have been damaged at some point... do i need these, or can i just plug them with a bolt?

I have read both pros and cons for them. anyone have a definitive answer on a turbo motor? I am sure it will increase my oil pressure- i will be essentially eliminating 4 small oil leaks. Will the lack of oil on the bottom of the piston hurt it? Are these little guys really to help keep the piston cooler? This is an E85 engine, will that be enough to help keep the piston cool?

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

You will not need them. You're using aftermarket forged pistons / connecting rods. Get a Golden Eagle Oil Squirter Block kit.

93h2beg

perfect! thank you. for once that is what i wanted to hear!

2kdrift

just did this myself, I found a broken off squirter inside my oil pan (praise magnetic drain bolt) i took the opportunity to swap some turbo parts while my DP was off anyway.

use the golden eagle kit its like $12 on ebay, follow the directions and your set

93h2beg

its ordered... parts are slowly arriving each day.

received my new radiator and cooling fan yesterday
today i got my gasket kit (generic japanese brand) I have used them on several builds in the past with zero issues. Head gasket will not be used- waiting on cometic to arrive.

I am waiting on the plug kit to start the build- i bought it out of sac (1hr away from me) and it isn't here yet. figured it would be here quick since the seller was so close. it'll probably arrive next week with my luck.

93h2beg

the b16 build is coming along.

waiting on mini ram now, and I am looking at a new turbo.

93h2beg

Okay, well the mini ram is mocked up, the new turbo is as well. Big thanks to the shoran for his gentle guidance and great pricing!

Waiting on a weld on bung for the oil return in the oil pan.

What clutch is good? Is competition clutch really what to go with?

Also will be ordering a MFactory LSD for my LS transmission. Yes I want the longer gears. LS is for me.

I am going to be doing a air to water intercooler kit. I will be ordering this once i get the motor in, I want to make sure I will have the room I think I will have. More on this later. It works well on paper (theory) but only road testing will truly tell.

I need to get to a junk yard sometime soon to replace my drivers door with another color door. - I am going for a budget beater look. Should be a decent sleeper.

How about exhaust diameter? Is 3" necessary? It seems that the overall opinion is yes- do 3", but is this real or just urban legend???? is 2.5" exhaust okay?

Geis

Some guy made a thread a couple days ago about action clutch having a 33% off sale, so you may want to check that out. Other than that, it's CC or nothing IMO (price per quality wise)

Yes there is a sizable difference in performance between 2.5 and 3, especially for anything over 300whp.

boosted94gsr

Who made that mini ram manifold? It looks like from the pic that the collector isn't fully welded. Hopefully it is and it's just a bad angle I'm seeing it from...

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Exedy, Clutchmaster, and Competition clutch are all good choices. It all depends upon the torque level and purpose of the car that you're using to determine which "level" to get. If this is more of a "street warrior", my suggestion is, to stay light, no twin disks, keep it simple. Exedy 89050B, Clutchmasters FX300, and Comp Stage 2 (?) Are the levels to stay with.

Trust me, you don't want to stay full LS. You may think you want to stay that way, with the "longer gears", but you don't. Turbo may be cycling, but acceleration rate will flatten horribly. That old "Longer gears in boost longer" is theoretical but doesn't have a very good real world application. But there's no better teacher than life experience on this notion, so I'll leave it be.

Why in God's good nature would you want to do that? It won't change anything for use as a street monster. And yes, I've had an air-to-water setup 10 years ago. It was much-ado-about-nothing for a street/ circuit purpose.

A Honda "sleeper" turbo no longer exists, unless you go back to about .. oh, 2003. You'll surprise no one, really. So just do it to enjoy it. A nice 1997 Buick GS Supercharged upgrade car? Now that's a sleeper.

Ummm. no 3" only on this one, chief. Don't look back.

93h2beg

Shoran- thank you for the advice.

I would love a clutch that is street friendly but will hold 400ish HP- is that going to be a puck style with harsh engagement? either on or off basically.

As for a few key points- the air to water setup will reduce turbo piping, and I plan to run a small radiator where the stock a/c condenser sat. This will not be a tank system. A small pump, continuously circulating chilled coolant from the small radiator to the air 2 water intercooler. As long as the car is moving it should be a fairly nice and effect setup. adding to the sleepy look of the civic. If continuoulsy see a large aluminum FMIC on a Honda you know it is built turbo etc..., I plan on having nothing exposed and all parts painted black to hide any possible cues. stock suspension height, and stock style rims w/ hub caps.

In the area I live there are a lot of wealthy people here. I drive around 100 miles a day to do estimates for work. On an average day I see 5+ teslas, numerous 911's countless M series BMWs, S 550s, G wagons, whale tail porsches- this valley is known for its wine and therefore money... It will be a sleeper here.

Regardless I do like to build things a little differently...

2kdrift

my exedy 3 puck has great engagement, once broken in it feels similar to stock just much stiffer engagement only time its bothersome is long traffic lights. clutches are rated per torque and not HP

paint your intercooler black and noone will see it

93h2beg

I do things differently!

This is my travel trailer tow rig and jet ski tow rig

2kdrift

thats fine do what you will. But trying to rationalize with us using your logic isnt going to work here. air to water is not an efficient setup for a street car it has no benefits

93h2beg

Will a true air to water setup with a heat exchanger be LESS efficient than a air to air that is hidden? I won't cut my grille- so my surface area that gets good airflow will be minimal.

My logic, isn't flawed. It may not be the logic you used when building your car, BUT if one of my primary goals is to hide everything then air to water is the only way to go.

In California we can also get stopped by the law for anything... such as modified exhaust, or a FMIC- that does not belong on a Honda. The cops here can really pull us over for anything, and unless I have CARB stickers I am screwed. So if it is out of sight, out of mind. I went through the Police academy and got my degree in criminal justice, I was trained on how to stop anyone with probable cause.

There are many factors on why I want to hide everything.

Unless someone can explain with sound logic how an air to water IC is LESS efficient than a air to air IC I will be going with my idea.
In doing air to water will it not drop turbo lag and or increase throttle response with much shorter intake (pressure side) tubes as well???

93h2beg

it is an Advanced Ignition- and it is fully welded on the inside. It really is a nice piece. I am very happy with the work of Justin (the mad who made it). It also carries a lifetime warranty.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

I never said your logic was flawed, just, a bit unnecessary. People need to start putting locations of residence under their screenname. We don't know where you are from when it is not posted, thereby allowing us to write feedback which may not apply to you. (dammit. )..

As for California, you're screwed either way. As soon as you pop your hood for inspection with an air-to-water setup, you're done for. So, I guess I don't see the issue. But, if you're determined to run air-to-water, that's ok, you won't lose any efficiency, just note that you won't really gain from it either. I didn't know your purpose for going air-to-water; But, now I know, and knowing is half the battle...

AZ_CIVIC

iTrader: (1)

So you want to go air to water to keep police suspicion under wraps but driving a lifted Cadillac truck isn't an eye magnet.

Just Joking maybe...

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Actually, that is a good point. Is there a specific stigma against sport compact cars vs. lifted rust-classics? That does occur in a lot of municipalities.

93h2beg

The lifted caddy is smog exempt, and follows most laws- aside from lack of mud flaps, and overall headlight height. For me to get pulled over in the "suburbillac" I MAY get a fix it ticket. AND IT IS VERY RUST FREE-ISH. We don't get car cancer here in CA. She is a work in progress... will be treated to a nice satin teal paint job with a white roof and tinted windows. It has original bucket seats in white leather.


With the civic if I were to get pulled over with a bright shiny FMIC cut halfway out of my bumper and 4" mega fart can outback the cops would likely pop my hood, where I will get modified smog equipment tickets which carry hefty hefty hefty fines in CA. If I have stock sized tailpipe outback, no FMIC and nothing to show "rice" the likelihood of them having me pop my hood is substantially reduced AND it fits my whole sleepy theme.

And Shodan- I am now located for you!

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

California. Glad I left it , and won't be moving back. can't keep my weapons, and if a lifted Caddy gets less attention than a Honda, I don't need to be there.

Get your radiator coated or anodized and be done. But no rattle can. It'll just look worse.

2kdrift

This is why im suggesting to paint it, My grille has not been cut, I even posted a pic of what it looks like, basically impossible to see. again its completely your choice, but as far as a FMIC being visible simply is not the case once its painted. Like shodan said once you pop your hood your screwed either way