I have an 95 B16a with 108k kilometers on it, and a .30 milled deck, reaching near 11:1 CR, stock block.
I am using 8.5psi all day and used it without intercooler for 3 months, made at dynojet 227whp @ 7.5psi and 242whp @ 8.7psi.
Last month I installed a Big Intercooler from ETD Motors and will to dynojet again to see how much it improved (the car feels stronger with 7.5 psi with IC that 8.7psi without IC). Running with 8.7psi all the days in Brazil, but I use ethanol, because our gas is not good as yours...
Dynojet, blue 7.5psi(0.5bar) and green 8.7psi(0.6bar)
http://img219.imageshack.us/im...5.jpg

 

I've have a neukin ramhorn manifold, garrett T3/To4e .50 trim, 3inch neukin downpipe. I have boost controller

 

I have headstuds and everything to rebuild the Bottom end, and everything to build the head, gaskets and everything. Im just out of $.

 

make sure u get arp rod bolts, and fuel pump too

 

I also have arp head studs. I have a 255lph installed

 

well i managed just under 300... 291.8hp to be exact and thats @ 8psi revving to 8250 rpm
that # is on a dynapack, not sure what i'll make on a dynojet.. hmm
let's see how long it holds up on my stock motor





Modified by 187Chor at 2:26 PM 11/13/2007

 

lol. I need mine to last a while!

 

Nice numbers man. Just don't rape it everyday and you will be good.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Schister66 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As was already said, PSI doesnt mean a damn thing...everything is based on the shear amount of power created. Stay around 300whp or less if you want it to be reliable and last for a while...</TD></TR></TABLE>

This could be about the worst advice I've ever heard. PSI doesn't mean a damn thing? That means EVERYTHING! Regardless of turbo sizing, 10 or 20 psi IS 10 or 20 psi. Granted different turbo's will give you different HP at the same boost level, but that's based solely on the turbo's effeciency (and H-T bandwagoning). A stock Honda motor was never designed to have boost added to them, hence the high compression ratio's that they all have. You start jamming 12, 15, 18 psi on a stock motor and it's done. A great tune will help, but the durability at high boost levels on a stock motor will be compromised. The motor doesn't care what turbo is on it or how much HP it's making, it just cares how much boost is pushed in the cylinder. Sleeves, ring lands, pistons, rods are all problem area's when boost is applied. As for the answer to your question, 8 to 10 psi with a good tune and you'll be fine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Specail Ed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

This could be about the worst advice I've ever heard.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you truly understood engine dynamics you wouldn't say that

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Specail Ed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You start jamming 12, 15, 18 psi on a stock motor and it's done. A great tune will help, but the durability at high boost levels on a stock motor will be compromised. The motor doesn't care what turbo is on it or how much HP it's making, it just cares how much boost is pushed in the cylinder. Sleeves, ring lands, pistons, rods are all problem area's when boost is applied. As for the answer to your question, 8 to 10 psi with a good tune and you'll be fine.</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is were you went wrong. Can you tell me why simple air pressure of 40psi is going to affect combustion pressures well above one thousand and usually close to 1,500psi. If you are going to speak about heat....ummm...yeah internal combustion....hot....

You have one thing right, the motor doesn't care how much HP it's making..... it only cares about torque. Torque comes from heat and pressure...PERIOD (not little baby farts of 40psi of boost)

Sorry i had to open a can of e-whoop *** on you, but I really hate it when people spread misinformation OR try to prove someone wrong when they have nothing to back it up. If you disagree with my points please let us know so we can discuss.....and I'll prove you wrong again (OK that part was mean )

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Specail Ed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

This could be about the worst advice I've ever heard. PSI doesn't mean a damn thing? That means EVERYTHING! Regardless of turbo sizing, 10 or 20 psi IS 10 or 20 psi. Granted different turbo's will give you different HP at the same boost level, but that's based solely on the turbo's effeciency (and H-T bandwagoning). A stock Honda motor was never designed to have boost added to them, hence the high compression ratio's that they all have. You start jamming 12, 15, 18 psi on a stock motor and it's done. A great tune will help, but the durability at high boost levels on a stock motor will be compromised. The motor doesn't care what turbo is on it or how much HP it's making, it just cares how much boost is pushed in the cylinder. Sleeves, ring lands, pistons, rods are all problem area's when boost is applied. As for the answer to your question, 8 to 10 psi with a good tune and you'll be fine.</TD></TR></TABLE>

ouch for the info

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Specail Ed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

This could be about the worst advice I've ever heard. PSI doesn't mean a damn thing? That means EVERYTHING! Regardless of turbo sizing, 10 or 20 psi IS 10 or 20 psi. Granted different turbo's will give you different HP at the same boost level, but that's based solely on the turbo's effeciency (and H-T bandwagoning). A stock Honda motor was never designed to have boost added to them, hence the high compression ratio's that they all have. You start jamming 12, 15, 18 psi on a stock motor and it's done. A great tune will help, but the durability at high boost levels on a stock motor will be compromised. The motor doesn't care what turbo is on it or how much HP it's making, it just cares how much boost is pushed in the cylinder. Sleeves, ring lands, pistons, rods are all problem area's when boost is applied. As for the answer to your question, 8 to 10 psi with a good tune and you'll be fine.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If by the word "THIS" you mean the info you posted, then i totally agree. I think your name says it all...


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by adseguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If you truly understood engine dynamics you wouldn't say that


Sorry i had to open a can of e-whoop *** on you, but I really hate it when people spread misinformation OR try to prove someone wrong when they have nothing to back it up. If you disagree with my points please let us know so we can discuss.....and I'll prove you wrong again (OK that part was mean )</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

357WHP 25x tq

11.6 @ 12x

 

Here's something to consider. Boost pressure increases the compression ratio, everyone can agree to that. Example, a 10.5:1 motor running 10 psi will have an effective compression of roughly 17.64:1. That's a whole lot of compression to be running, hence why everyone agrees that a good tune is necessary. However, the disagreement occurs when we start considering boost pressure, regardless of turbo or HP goals. If we're talking engine dynamics, then it is also understood that compression pressure is a derivitive of compression ratio. The higher the compression ratio, the higher the compression pressure within a given cylinder. Therefor, the higher compression pressure, the higher chance of detonation and/or failing parts. I'd be a little hesistant to go as far to say that psi has nothing to do with what the motor can handle.

 

as everyone said before as long as you are tuned for it you should be straight and the car should be reliable enough to daily

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Specail Ed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here's something to consider. Boost pressure increases the compression ratio, everyone can agree to that. Example, a 10.5:1 motor running 10 psi will have an effective compression of roughly 17.64:1. That's a whole lot of compression to be running, hence why everyone agrees that a good tune is necessary. However, the disagreement occurs when we start considering boost pressure, regardless of turbo or HP goals. If we're talking engine dynamics, then it is also understood that compression pressure is a derivitive of compression ratio. The higher the compression ratio, the higher the compression pressure within a given cylinder. Therefor, the higher compression pressure, the higher chance of detonation and/or failing parts. I'd be a little hesistant to go as far to say that psi has nothing to do with what the motor can handle. </TD></TR></TABLE>

yes higher compression causes more heat which equals more change of detention. but air pressure itself is not going to cause detonation. i think it depends more on what gas you are combusting and the properties pertaining to that gas.

 

my car has around 100,000 miles, so ya'll still think that 8 to 10 psi is fine?

 

im at 15 psi stock ls block 112,000 miles

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cameron4776 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my car has around 100,000 miles, so ya'll still think that 8 to 10 psi is fine?</TD></TR></TABLE>

depends on how good your car passes a leakdown and compression test

 

leakdown?

 

yup in a nutshell you strap a mini air reg to a hose with a spark plug fouler at the end and regulate the air to 100psi and measure how much air escapes from the engine 10%-15% is decent over 20% is not good to turbo

 

well i don't kno anyone around where I live, that does this.

 

You can probably find a "how to" . It doesn't really matter how much miles your engine has made. It's more about the condition of it. The B-series engine is a strong engine. Whit a decent tune u can do a lot!
Even on stock internals.

 

you should be fine. it really depends on tunning. i have a 160k on my gsr with just arp headstuds. i have a 64 trim on 11psi. iam also tuned on chrome. just make sure your tunner know what there doing

 

How am i going to kno if he has done a good job on the tune?