7 month build nearing completion pics 2.0 LSvtec gt35 topmount
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7 month build nearing completion pics 2.0 LSvtec gt35 topmount
I've been working on this for about 7 months on and off, budget allowing that is. I have it nailed down to adding my wastegate to the manifold, finishing my exhaust, heatcoating the manifold/hotside/dp, making one more mount for my radaitor, doing my charge pipes... Here are some pics:
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....x.jpg
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....x.jpg
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....x.jpg
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....x.jpg
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....x.jpg
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....x.jpg
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....x.jpg
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....x.jpg
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....x.jpg
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....x.jpg
Setup is:
B18c1 Head
Crower 63411T-2 Cams
7 angle valve job
Ferrea Stainless valves
Crower Titanium Retainers
Skunk 2 Springs
b18a1 block 85 mm darton sleeves
JE 9.1s
Eagle Rods
Stock LS Crank
GSR trans w/Quaife & PG Cradle
Skunk 2 Drag coilovers
Tokico Blues
Traction bars
Spec Stage 5 clutch & pp
Clutchmasters 8lb flywheel
GT3561s
Custom Top Mount
3.5" Dp/Exhaust
HKS SSQ
Tial 38 mm w/1 bar spring
PWR 750 HP Intercooler
2.5" Charge Piping
Skunk 2 IM
Edelbrock 68mm TB
MSD 7al 2
MSD Pro Power coil
MSD 3 step
Walbro 255
Precision 1000cc injectors
-8 feed, -6 return (stainless)
Aeromotive FPR
Aeromotove Filter
It will be tuned on crome, hopefully this weekend or next - aiming for 550 whp on 110 octane.
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....x.jpg
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....x.jpg
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....x.jpg
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....x.jpg
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....x.jpg
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....x.jpg
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....x.jpg
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....x.jpg
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....x.jpg
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....x.jpg
Setup is:
B18c1 Head
Crower 63411T-2 Cams
7 angle valve job
Ferrea Stainless valves
Crower Titanium Retainers
Skunk 2 Springs
b18a1 block 85 mm darton sleeves
JE 9.1s
Eagle Rods
Stock LS Crank
GSR trans w/Quaife & PG Cradle
Skunk 2 Drag coilovers
Tokico Blues
Traction bars
Spec Stage 5 clutch & pp
Clutchmasters 8lb flywheel
GT3561s
Custom Top Mount
3.5" Dp/Exhaust
HKS SSQ
Tial 38 mm w/1 bar spring
PWR 750 HP Intercooler
2.5" Charge Piping
Skunk 2 IM
Edelbrock 68mm TB
MSD 7al 2
MSD Pro Power coil
MSD 3 step
Walbro 255
Precision 1000cc injectors
-8 feed, -6 return (stainless)
Aeromotive FPR
Aeromotove Filter
It will be tuned on crome, hopefully this weekend or next - aiming for 550 whp on 110 octane.
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#8
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How do you like that radiator. I'm in desperate need of a radiator. Any problems gettin hot at the track.
Edit: just realize you haven't tracked the car yet. good luck with the setup.
-chad-
Edit: just realize you haven't tracked the car yet. good luck with the setup.
-chad-
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Re: (allstokhonda)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by allstokhonda »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How do you like that radiator. I'm in desperate need of a radiator. Any problems gettin hot at the track.
Edit: just realize you haven't tracked the car yet. good luck with the setup.
-chad-</TD></TR></TABLE>
You're right, I haven't tracked it yet (or driven it really) but I talked to 5 or 6 people running this radiator with no problems...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by W O T »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">once again
SICK
</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks man...i'm just ready for it to run
Edit: just realize you haven't tracked the car yet. good luck with the setup.
-chad-</TD></TR></TABLE>
You're right, I haven't tracked it yet (or driven it really) but I talked to 5 or 6 people running this radiator with no problems...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by W O T »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">once again
SICK
</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks man...i'm just ready for it to run
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Re: (slowteg550)
I see your head ground is multi tasking as a oil line bracket.. I assume you are aware that it can't ground the head at all from the location you have it at. Right? That hole is for jdm cars whose throttle cable wraps around the front of the motor to go to their destination.. The reason it can't ground there is because you have a gasket between the valve cover and head.. The correct ground location is the next postion to the left which grounds through the nut and stud and then down through the head.. You probably already knew that though.
P.s. not trying to be an ***
P.s. not trying to be an ***
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Re: (Integralove00)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Integralove00 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I see your head ground is multi tasking as a oil line bracket.. I assume you are aware that it can't ground the head at all from the location you have it at. Right? That hole is for jdm cars whose throttle cable wraps around the front of the motor to go to their destination.. The reason it can't ground there is because you have a gasket between the valve cover and head.. The correct ground location is the next postion to the left which grounds through the nut and stud and then down through the head.. You probably already knew that though.
P.s. not trying to be an ***</TD></TR></TABLE>
Actually, I didn't even think about it not contacting there. I'm not sure that it could cause my problems, but I will move it. Thanks
P.s. not trying to be an ***</TD></TR></TABLE>
Actually, I didn't even think about it not contacting there. I'm not sure that it could cause my problems, but I will move it. Thanks
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Re: (slowteg550)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slowteg550 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Actually, I didn't even think about it not contacting there. I'm not sure that it could cause my problems, but I will move it. Thanks </TD></TR></TABLE>
Thinking it over today, the next position left (stock ground position) is exactly the same as the spot i have it, just a tapped hole in the valve cover for a bolt to thread in. It isn't one of the holes in the valve cover that leads to a stud.
Actually, I didn't even think about it not contacting there. I'm not sure that it could cause my problems, but I will move it. Thanks </TD></TR></TABLE>
Thinking it over today, the next position left (stock ground position) is exactly the same as the spot i have it, just a tapped hole in the valve cover for a bolt to thread in. It isn't one of the holes in the valve cover that leads to a stud.
#14
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Re: (slowteg550)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slowteg550 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Thinking it over today, the next position left (stock ground position) is exactly the same as the spot i have it, just a tapped hole in the valve cover for a bolt to thread in. It isn't one of the holes in the valve cover that leads to a stud. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Tapping the valve cover is not a solution.. I think you may have missed my explanation..
The reason your ground doesn't work on the timing belt cover portion of the valve cover is because you are only grounding the valve cover...
The valve cover is seperated from the head by rubber gaskets and so the valve cover is unable to ground to the motor no mater where you bolt a ground wire on the valve cover...
When you place the ground wire on the next postion to the left you are able to ground the head through the nut which is threaded onto a stud which is threaded into the head... grounding the valve cover as you currently have it and as you would by tapping a spot on the valve cover is as effective as not running the ground at all.
Thinking it over today, the next position left (stock ground position) is exactly the same as the spot i have it, just a tapped hole in the valve cover for a bolt to thread in. It isn't one of the holes in the valve cover that leads to a stud. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Tapping the valve cover is not a solution.. I think you may have missed my explanation..
The reason your ground doesn't work on the timing belt cover portion of the valve cover is because you are only grounding the valve cover...
The valve cover is seperated from the head by rubber gaskets and so the valve cover is unable to ground to the motor no mater where you bolt a ground wire on the valve cover...
When you place the ground wire on the next postion to the left you are able to ground the head through the nut which is threaded onto a stud which is threaded into the head... grounding the valve cover as you currently have it and as you would by tapping a spot on the valve cover is as effective as not running the ground at all.
#15
you also need to get some better hose for the pcv setup from the manifold...that clear hose will heat/expand and come off under boost........and it can also, easily, collapse under vaccumm....believe me...i found out myself..what a mess
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Re: (boosted94cx)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted94cx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you also need to get some better hose for the pcv setup from the manifold...that clear hose will heat/expand and come off under boost........and it can also, easily, collapse under vaccumm....believe me...i found out myself..what a mess</TD></TR></TABLE>
yep, that's just temporary, I didn't want a mess while I was getting it running
yep, that's just temporary, I didn't want a mess while I was getting it running
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Re: (ImportMotorSpec)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ImportMotorSpec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Looks like a pretty nice setup!!
One question-Where did you get that downpipe transition from? I have never seen one that short.</TD></TR></TABLE>
We made it, one of my friends owns an exhaust shop and his bender swells/reduces pipe. So we swelled a 2.5" to 3.5" and it just happened to be perfect and short
One question-Where did you get that downpipe transition from? I have never seen one that short.</TD></TR></TABLE>
We made it, one of my friends owns an exhaust shop and his bender swells/reduces pipe. So we swelled a 2.5" to 3.5" and it just happened to be perfect and short
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Re: (rebo0t)
I'm still trying to figure out an ecu problem, but I think it can be linked to a bad chip. However, while troubleshooting that problem my ecu fried... and I don't know what the hell caused that... i'll keep you posted
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