<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Full-Race Geoff &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">good to see you experimenting with different ideas man. Ill post pics of the new manifold i built for my civic, no way is it AC compatible, but definately a 4-2-1 style, which can be done a ton of different ways. good luck</TD></TR></TABLE>

Are there any specific advantages to running a 4-2-1 manifold over a 4-1 design? The biggest problem I can think of with a 4-2-1 would be space constraints.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 11psiTurboSI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When 3inch isn't enough </TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't know about you, but most girls I meet wouldn't be satisfied with only 3". . hehe

 

I built a 4-2-1 mani with a 4" dp for my SFWD car ..no AC though lol...I'll post some pics when the car is done

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mpir3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I built a 4-2-1 mani with a 4" dp for my SFWD car ..no AC though lol...I'll post some pics when the car is done </TD></TR></TABLE>

God damn it how many people are building SFWD cars?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by one.6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

God damn it how many people are building SFWD cars? </TD></TR></TABLE>

don't worry i won't have time to make it to any events

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by one.6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Are there any specific advantages to running a 4-2-1 manifold over a 4-1 design? The biggest problem I can think of with a 4-2-1 would be space constraints.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yamaha RX1 Snowmobile 4-2-1 turbo manifold.

That was an older design(new design is more laminar), but there is no way you could fit a 4-1 in there with the steering linkage 1/2" from the runners. Think the same way, but apply it to a Honda and fitting a 4" tube and manifold between the Block and radiator.
Oh, the Honda manifold is not as bunched up vertically as the RX-1, the last merge is over by the tranny, so the whole face of the block is used for the first two merges, ie, should be very efficient. Schedule 40 pipe may not end up being the choice here, as I was saying to Direp, the turbo location offers easy access to a nice tripod bracing system for the use of slip collectors, thin guage piping, and even incolnel if you suckas wanna pay for it Pictures tonight when I finish some other stuff to get back to this!



Modified by Tinker219 at 9:11 AM 1/11/2005

 

Sounds like it'll be a cool setup, it's nice to see someone thinking like this. I considered the inconel route too, until i priced it! $200 for 1 U bend!!! No thanks, 18ga 321 it is.

 

Thank you for the graces Tony. Ya, on the incolnel statement, if you guys wanna shell out $3k or so for a manifold, Ill make it ! Shouldnt be much more labor involved, but this is one of the rare cases(in this industry), in which parts are WAY more than labor.
Well, I kicked around the numbers you gave me, itd be $800 in bends, and if they do not come with any sufficient legs, prolly another $200 in straights. I have NO clue what filler costs, but count on $2-300 for enough to weld up one manifold.
$1300 in parts, prolly $780 in labor($65/hr X12 hours)= $2080 for just the manifold. The downpipe would probably have to be 304 or 321 simply because Im not sure you can get 4" in anything else. Any takers?
Expect slightly less than half of that based on more normal materials, it all depends on how much time there is in welding these(Im guessing 12 weld hours, but there is fixture production and prototype production in there too).

 

Nice idea Cody. It would be nice if someone came out w/ a thin wall manifold and just used braces for the turbo. I have no complaints w/ my thickwall manifold, but damn does that sucker absorb/give off alot of heat. I think something like 16/18 gauge 321 is the way to go.

-Mike

 

Let's see them pics

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tinker219 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thank you for the graces Tony. Ya, on the incolnel statement, if you guys wanna shell out $3k or so for a manifold, Ill make it ! Shouldnt be much more labor involved, but this is one of the rare cases(in this industry), in which parts are WAY more than labor.
Well, I kicked around the numbers you gave me, itd be $800 in bends, and if they do not come with any sufficient legs, prolly another $200 in straights. I have NO clue what filler costs, but count on $2-300 for enough to weld up one manifold.
$1300 in parts, prolly $780 in labor($65/hr X12 hours)= $2080 for just the manifold. The downpipe would probably have to be 304 or 321 simply because Im not sure you can get 4" in anything else. Any takers?
Expect slightly less than half of that based on more normal materials, it all depends on how much time there is in welding these(Im guessing 12 weld hours, but there is fixture production and prototype production in there too). </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'll take three. PM me.


jk.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kwuaymaikrup &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Let's see them pics </TD></TR></TABLE>
Finished what I needed to for the day, going out to finish tacking the manifold together.

 

 

good idea but leads me to think about people blowing their a/c compressors from the massive amounts of torque you could have on a setup that needs/uses a 4" dp. the a/c compressor would definately slip and would burn out soon there after. just my thoughts though. However, i'd bet you'd definately sell em.

 

Sorry but I fail to see how someone making whatever HP # is going to cause their compressor to fail. Ever see an alternator blowout from too much torque? That just makes no sense. The compressor SPINS, it doesn't see torque. And if someone is even stupid enough to try and make 500+whp w/ the a/c on, then they certainly have other problems. The idea w/ this setup is that you can putz around nicely w/ your a/c on, and still be able to make however much hp.

-Mike

 

I have a question... if the turbine housing outlet is only 3" maximum anyways would it be just as good to flare to 4" under the oil pan or nearest location after clearing air conditioning? Also how many cars on here that are interested in 4" downpipe even have air conditioning?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SlowTeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sorry but I fail to see how someone making whatever HP # is going to cause their compressor to fail. Ever see an alternator blowout from too much torque? That just makes no sense. The compressor SPINS, it doesn't see torque. And if someone is even stupid enough to try and make 500+whp w/ the a/c on, then they certainly have other problems. The idea w/ this setup is that you can putz around nicely w/ your a/c on, and still be able to make however much hp.

-Mike</TD></TR></TABLE>
I dont think that pushing those kind of numbers w/the AC on would hurt anything either. Excessive RPM from what the compressor was designed for would be problematic, but no amount of motor power should damage the compressor.
Here are some pictures.
First, a few things:

One, Im not positive I want to put the wastegate here on production pieces, simply because its not as "prioritized" compared to the turbo as Id like to see, AND it just cluster-***** everything(this one will still see the bulk of the exhaust flow and perform wonderfully). But, since this is a 46mm wastegate, its about 2" longer than the 44/38mm's, so it will not fit on the initial 90 down at the bottom of the tranny like I had hoped/planned.

Two, still waiting on a 3-4" reducer so that the 4" tubing mates to the turbine housing properly. So we have a Virtual downpipe, courtesy of Mike, my other welder

Three, this car does NOT have a stock radiator support, so clearances on here are MUCH more exagerated than they would be on a stock car. However, everything is contained within 7 inches, which based on past measurements means everything will fit with the use of pusher fans(7.25" on this one, but production pieces could actually see as little as 6.25").

The hood closes with 1" to spare. Tight, but this is the best turbo positioning I could do to clear the upper radiator hose.
For the radiator hose, we can offer a few options, from complete relocation kits for stock style radiators, to complete custom radiators to make installation as painless as possible.

B20/LS motors will have to weld 8" of pipe to the stock coolant tube exiting the head because this is basically touching the turbine housing. Or, exchange your stock one for a welded one(or a core charge for one ready to go).

And finally, price/availability. Not sure on price, expect to be able to purchase well before spring. If there are any questions, PM/email me, Ill do my best to answer them.

 

That is pretty nice!

Sweet idea, nice fit!!

 

that is pritty sick cody and what is it made from thick or thin wall tubing ??? , looks great man

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C1CYA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that is pritty sick cody and what is it made from thick or thin wall tubing ??? , looks great man </TD></TR></TABLE>
this one is thick tubing...

 

What is better or worse about a 4-2-1 design compared to a 4-1 manifold? I've seen 4-2-1 on a wrx, what are some advantages of it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tinker219 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
this one is thick tubing...</TD></TR></TABLE>

You are crazy junior!!

Looks good. Watch out for an email from me tomorrow from work dawg!

 

4 inch downpipe? lol. This isn't an Izuzu NPR or an LS1 we're dealing with, it's a 4 cylinder 2.0 liter max honda civic.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 80884 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What is better or worse about a 4-2-1 design compared to a 4-1 manifold? I've seen 4-2-1 on a wrx, what are some advantages of it? </TD></TR></TABLE>
The only reason this one went with a 4-2-1 design was for room. I know it works based on testing done with the RX1 stuff. Is it optimal, equal, or worse than a 4-1? I cannot truthfully answer that. But will it work, and work well? yep!

 

thats just ******* sick as crap