3rd question: Which do I Boost? b20b or b18c1??
im getting the b20b for $200 with the crank from a buddy of mine and I have a spare GSR bare block with no crank lying around. Both have low mileage. Which do i Boost and why?? Like I said before with my other 2 questions im trying to push out 400-500hp. I know I will have a b16 head heavily ported.
Suggestions HT!
Suggestions HT!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18sihatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">c1 because the b20 sleeves tend to be weak when it comes to boost application and have been known to crack! so b18 sleeves will do you good!</TD></TR></TABLE>
all sleeves can crack, its all about the proper tunning, I say which ever one is cheaper for u.
all sleeves can crack, its all about the proper tunning, I say which ever one is cheaper for u.
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yeah i guess I'll go with the b18c1. I wanted to go with something a little different than normal. I am on a budget but yeah I do agree that the GSR block has thicker walls but without proper tuning anything wrong can happen. Im getting a block protector for $75.00 think thats a good deal?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crx18c1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah i guess I'll go with the b18c1. I wanted to go with something a little different than normal. I am on a budget but yeah I do agree that the GSR block has thicker walls but without proper tuning anything wrong can happen. Im getting a block protector for $75.00 think thats a good deal?</TD></TR></TABLE>
no block protectors suck
no block protectors suck
''block protectors'' done change the sleeves integrity.
the reason aftermarket sleeves are much better than oem sleeves is becuase they are made of ductilte iron and they are also in much cases almost 2 times thicker than oem sleeves. and you say what does this have to do with anytihng? well people try to pass off those block guards as a way of ''sleeving'' a block and changing the integrity so the block withstands more abuse, and its not true.
the reason aftermarket sleeves are much better than oem sleeves is becuase they are made of ductilte iron and they are also in much cases almost 2 times thicker than oem sleeves. and you say what does this have to do with anytihng? well people try to pass off those block guards as a way of ''sleeving'' a block and changing the integrity so the block withstands more abuse, and its not true.
back in the day i went 239whp / 231 trq on a bone stock b20z longblock. on 7lbs on a drag kit!! went 13.04 @ 110mph... put 14k miles on that motor before blew the stock headgasket, then i sold the motor to a friend for all motor.. i would do it again at that power level..
but that is relitivly low power and boost, would you have been willing to push it past 15 psi?
i tihnk that is the differences between the b16,b18 blocks verse the b20. you can make up to 400whp on stock sleeves. that of which i dont tihnk you can do with b20 sleeves
i tihnk that is the differences between the b16,b18 blocks verse the b20. you can make up to 400whp on stock sleeves. that of which i dont tihnk you can do with b20 sleeves
dude how about making one thread for all of your questions or do a search, i know this topic has been covered MANY times. but anyway yeah b18c1 block with b20/ls crank would be your best bet. but you need to use ls rods when doing c1 block with ls/b20 crank
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doood »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">put the b20 crank in the gsr block. i didnt write it in some cryptic code.</TD></TR></TABLE>
LMAO
LMAO
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DA9 Purist »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what would the displacment be on a C1 block with a B20 crank and LS rods?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The exact same displacement as an LS motor.
The exact same displacement as an LS motor.
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