HatchGuyb18h22

So guys,This is my first build as far a complete engine goes. I just picked up a 1991 ef hatch that is begging for a beast to be under the hood. Keep in mind this will be a Daily Driver and a budget ceiling of about 6k. The plan is to pull the h22a1 out of my old and beat 94 prelude and do the swap and hopefully have some left over for boost. I've already started pulling both motors and I'll be posting pics as progress permits(4-8-14) but as of now still somewhat in the planning stage. I'd love to make this a community project because it'd speed things up tremendously.

So far I know that I will be sleeving the block through laskey racing for which it seems to be the better deal. However, I'm still kinda thrown on weather to use 9:1 or 9.5:1 cr pistons. Ive been looking at Endyn to do my head however I'd love to save that 1100$ for other parts. Ive already installed a competition clutch Ultra light flywheel and O'reillys auto's ceremic clutch lol Any suggestions on my parts list? such as a turbo kit that works well with a h22a1, rod and piston combos, main bearings, arp head studs, cams?

turbomaniac

9.5 pistons IMO

GTX4294 turbo or precision 70, 72

you could use stage 1 cam (the ones with higher lift and duration among others stage 1 cams)

msd ignition and 2000 cc injectors

engine bearings, rods ans pistons

80mm throttle

high flow inlet manifold

huge pump

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

H22's have FRM sleeves. Honing FRM sleeves takes a specific tool, and a very steady hand. Do you have any machine shops nearby that know what they're doing, and are willing to do it? I'm also fairly sure that most shelf pistons don't play well with FRM sleeves - call CP about it. That being said, higher compression is better.

HatchGuyb18h22

With the way the price list seems to add up stage 1 cams arent worth the money. Im definitely going to get the head p&p'd and upgrade the valvetrain however considering ive seen 400whp from an b18c1 with stock gsr cams that was boosted on 91 and water meth

HatchGuyb18h22

https://honda-tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2951496

turbomaniac

if you use more than stage 1 cam you cant stay at 9.5 cr.

about every 20 degrees that you increase duration, you must increase also the CR at about 0.4...

ordinary stage 1 cam adds about 20 degrees duration to your cam.

ESP.net

Here I will guide you. Since I have done the same swap... well H23V EF boosted....

Sleeves Benson laskey cheapest good for the buck
Eagle Rods
JE pistons or CP not wiseco
9.5-1 will be fine for anything under 700 hp
9-1 will work too. but .5 makes bit difference on street

Head cheapout leave stock. Hope guides are good and doesnt smoke...
Doing it right... Ferrera 6k ss valves
Ferrera keepers
SuperTech valve springs and retainers
SuperTech bronze valve guides
Ferrera Seats
3 angle valve job
Cometic MLS head gasket or OEM
ARP Head Studs

600 hp - stock cams will be fine for street duty
600+ pro 1 skunk2 NA cams with matching Skunk2 Cam gears and or a good Full PnP job.
A 68-70mm PP throttle body
600 + 1100cc injectors or more
255 hp walbro will get you to 550 whp... stock lines...

Ditch stock manifold and either Euro R or Excessive. Skunk2 wont work too big of runners in the EF chassis.

Turbo... 6262 is a good street turbo for doing work under 600 whp .91 A/R.

turbomaniac

nice mod.

IMO, cams are not required, especialy if you have biger than 6262 turbo...

i like every part you installed. Did you use stock big end and crank bearings?

the 6262 is good for 600hp but i think is kind of small for 2200cc

98vtec

you are wasting money putting anything into the head other than simply refreshing it.

just because you turbo doesnt mean you "have" to drop compression.

K.I.S.S.

tubular manifold
quality new-tech injectors
properly sized turbo

you are going to need a different clutch. Personally, I like the OEM weighted flywheel.

I really like the Turbonetics T-GA billet line which is availabe through Go-Autoworks.

also, be realistic. Unless you plan on extensive tuning and hardware to control wheel spin, 500+whp daily is pointless.

i make 380whp stock block h22 on pump gas. very simple setup with a Turbonetics 5454. Needless to say, even with BBG/RPM, 225/45R16 BFG KDW2 tires, wheel spin is inevitable even from a 3rd gear roll.

HatchGuyb18h22

Alright so far the plan is to refresh the head with new springs and retainers and check valve guides and seals, sticking with oem cams, possibly bigger valves. Looking at a plm mfg turbo manifold. As for bottom end gonna run 9.5:1 pistons and sleeve the block. Acl race bearings, arp head studs, oem head gasket...still not sure on intake manifold or turbo setup and size fuel injectors

turbomaniac

keep stock manifold for now (but with 70-80mm throttle). if with the turbos i proposed you dont see adequate power then you check for inlet manifold and cams

no bigger valve needed only better valves (fererra, etc)

as for the injectors for 600 hp we use 1000cc, so you can do the math... Of course you sould get opinions from other members..

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

A 6262 and anything larger than gt37 will suck on the street, laggy and poor power curves.

Any daily driven car with over 350hp will have horrible traction issues on typical street tires. it would take a very sticky tire with minimal tread life to make use of the torque a 350+hp h22.

Op you need to decide on a power goal. honestly if this is just a dd then don't sleeve the motor, leave the internals stock and aim for 300-350hp. any more than that is pointless on the street for a dd.

turbomaniac

i didnt notice the "daily driver"

for daily use cannot be more than 400hp or you have to buy second car..

if i were you i would buy second car and would have my prelude 1000hp lol...

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

I've daily driven a 650rwhp C6 Z06... But it has the suspension and tires to cope... plus i cant really get on it too much because it makes almost 600lbft and just spins our street tires (pilot sport cups) we run Hoosier R6 slicks and Continental full soft race slicks to put down the power at the track.

I've also daily driven a 350rwhp S13 which is now under he knife for 600. However again it has the suspension and rubber to deal with the power.

my civic I'm building will make just shy of 500whp and be semi daily driven but I'll just take it easy on the street. then when I get my big badass motor (650-700 in full road circuit trim on race gas and non-dot legal slicks.. 500ish on 93 w/ meth on street tires) done after the first motor is in the car and the chassis is shaken down I'll take the first 500whp motor and put it in my 90 CB7 accord.

daily driving a high power car ultimately comes down to how you drive it... you can't beat on it all the time like you can with a sub200 hp fwd car. hell the z06 will spin 3rd on the street if I go past 40-50% throttle. but a limit for fwd cars is about 300-400 depending on chassis, tires, and suspension..

an ef is already so light that even a stock h22 will lead to traction issues not to mention throwing the balance of the chassis off since it will be nose heavy, Toss in forced induction and a huge torque increase and it gets even worse.. 350 is the most I'd run with your chassis selection and that's assuming you have a great suspension setup and high end street tires.

HatchGuyb18h22

Alright to reply to everyones thoughts, My power goal is 350-400. I want to go ahead and sleeve the block bc the motor already has 225k on it with a lil smoking. Also I'd hate to spend good money on a setup and then blow it up bc I didnt sleeve it. I plan to build it right, but on a budget. I plan to match suspension and rubber to my setup as well. The point of doing this build is so I dont have to beat on the motor to have a little fun. As of now I have a EG with a poormans type r for a N/A play toy daily driver and autocross car but want something that can take things with more ease and less stress on the motor as far as revs.