Ldo

Do I need an aftermarket FPR for tuning?

I'm putting together stock B18C1 with LHT JRSC,Walbro 255 pump, RC 440's & Hondata S300.

Eran

iTrader: (1)

No, Hondata will do your fuel for you.

Natural Aspirations

If your not having any problems don't change them, if thats what came with the kit seems to me that they are the correct ones for your application. Boosted applications close the gap in the plug not to increase performance but to alleviate spark "blow out" caused by the increased pressure in the cylinder. Closing the gap needlessly will only hurt performance. At JRSC boost levels you shouldn't have to close the gap they are really not pushing that much air.

If its not broke don't try to fix it.

Ldo

Can somebody please tell me what kind of stepper pulley I have here?


Thanks.

carbonlaced

might seem dumb but with my old setup I had the car dyno'd and tuned with a wideband 02 sensor. Once tuning was completed my stock sensor was put back in place.

Will running a wideband 02 sensor full time work properly? Does it need to be a PLX with resistors?

B18C
LHT JRSC
CRV Crank
Endyn Stepper
Hondata S200

MOVE OVER

Judging by the color, I would say it is an Endyn. The MVM are purple colored and are laser etched with the MVM name. Both should have the same overdrive though.

MOVE OVER

You can use the wideband all the time. However, you won't be running in closed loop because only the s300 allows you to use a wideband in place of the narrowed for closed loop operation. the s200 does not support this.
I have the s300 and use closed loop with my PLX M300. I did use the resistor that are recommended.

carbonlaced

Without closed loop it will trigger CEL? Is it worth upgrading to s300?

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

go to a muffler shop and have an extra o2 bung welded into place

Eran

iTrader: (1)

Anyone want to buy my setup? Just testing waters, wanting to go another way.

TW: Jackson Racing Supercharger for B16A/B16B/B17A/B18C5 -- $1200



Not sure if I want to get rid of this, but I'm entertaining serious offers. A deposit will have me remove it from my car.

* B16/B17/B18C5 Manifold
* Eaton Roots Charger (Magnusen Performance)
* 4.0" Nose Pulley (6lbs)
* Jackson Racing Crank Pulley (allows for true 6lb boost)
* Jackson Racing Double Alt-Pulley (Non-Stepped)
* All Belts, Hoses, Fittings, Brackets etc.
* Charger has recent oil change
* Golden Eagle 90-Degree FPR Adapter
* New Bypass Valve Actuator

Add-Ons:

* Hondata s200 w/ Boost Option, BURN1, and USB-DB9 Cable - $250
* RC SL9-550cc 13ohm with Press-Fit O-Rings - $250
* Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump (less than 100 miles) - $60
* GSR Comptech Intake -- $120

Total Package: $1700

Ultraspeed DC2

^ Why is the map sensor plugged into the stock location if Hondata is used?

Eran

iTrader: (1)

I never used the Hondata, it's brand new. I use Neptune RTP. And it's plugged in to the stock location because that's when I was using a 3-BAR GM map. It's currently there because I have nothing to plug the throttle body, but if you look at my previous posts, I have a stock map mounted to the manifold that runs my setup now.



But thanks for your concern.

Ldo

^^ Can you tell me where the MAP hose is connected to in that pic? Thanks.

Also, anyone knows if I need to buy the Electrical kit from JRSC and their pressure switch if I'm not using their FMU? Trying to piece together my used JRSC kit.

Eran

iTrader: (1)

I took out the pressure switch (because I'm actually running REAL engine management) and put in a hose nipple with a standard 1/4" NPT. The hose it just slipped onto the nipple on the bottom of the MAP sensor.

And no, you don't need their electrical kit.

Eran

iTrader: (1)

Ldo

Thanks for the help man. Also, where did you get or how you made that hose nipple with the 1/4" NPT? The nipple under the MAP sensor is freaking tiny.

Eran

iTrader: (1)

I just found a silicone hose (it's actually a bit of OEM Honda vacuum hose) that fit over the MAP nipple, and then STRETCHED it over the brass nipple. I don't think the nipple itself is 1/4", it's more like 1/8". It's just the thread is 1/4" NPT.

I got it at a CarQuest auto parts, but just about any parts store that has loose brass will have this. Just bring in your manifold and find one that threads into the pressure switch hole.

migrod1

wat clutch is everyone running?

migrod1

so i got a couple questions before i go ahead with installing a JRSC on my civic

set up
2000 EM1
63,000 original miles
motor runs strong no issues what so ever
original clutch and doesn't seem to slip

1. will my clutch slip or hold up?
do i need to upgrade to stage 1
2. do i need new timing belt and tensioner
3. do i need a new water pump



build will consist of the following
JRSC kit with 8psi pulley
rc440
hondata s200

I CRX I

i believe i answered you on your other thread

AcuraIntegraLS-T

Has anyone in here used the spec + clutches? The stage 2+ or the stage 3+? Im looking for a new clutch and thinking about trying one of these out the stage 2+ says it will hold 280 ftlbs and the stage 3+ holds 400 ftlbs. I think the stage 2+ will be enough for my JRSC b20vtec setup but wanted to ask around. Any info on how these feel and the life and how well the hold up would be great thanks

CRVRX

group buys are not allowed on h-t, and you have to be a forum sponsor to resell items.

thanks.

Gold DA9

thats a good price and glad to hear your business is still doing great.

Is that header a 2.5 or 3in collector?

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

anyone have a decent hose diagram for routing the hoses on the LS kit?

Natural Aspirations

Spawne32,
Did you try to look?

Try a few posts back......