wantboost

iTrader: (2)

The fans pull a vacuum as they move air through the radiator. the cfm rating you see is at 0inhg or no load/free air basically. the cfm drops as fan speed/resistance through the radiator increases.

if you go to c&r racing's website they have the data sheet for every SPAL fan with cfm/pressure ratings and amperage ratings

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

On the pic you posted you can see the airflow vs static pressure vs voltage table.

at 0psi static pressure the fan moves 1630cfm and draws 14.5amps which you'll never see pulling air through a radiator. at 1.2psi static pressure it moves 270cfm and pulls 19amps

KevinEF7

Ya I see that, the one I posted still seems to be the biggest baddest 12" spal makes. Does another company make a better 12"?

Spal #30103202 seems wrongly listed on alot of sites as a 12" fan, but is actually almost 16"

dcmatt

iTrader: (7)

Ok maybe you guys can help. I fixes my clutch problem. When i originally pulled the tranny it was mainly to do the synchros. I noticed my 1-2 slider wasnt in optimum shape but i didnt have another or the money to order one. Now that its all back together it still grinds going into 2nd and now popsout of 1st. Not eberytime bit more then half the time for sure. Would a bad slider cause popouts? My other theory os when i assembled the countershaft, everytime i tried to tighten the nut back to wjere it was it would lock everything down. I ended up just backing it up a lil. It doesnt popout of 2nd and the grind is slightly better. As of now ive only put 10 miles on it also. Was thinking about trying some synchromesh. Opinions?

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Are all your motor mounts good? Linkage not bent?

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

If you didn't shim it correctly, that would cause your problem. Also, if your shift fork is damaged, that could cause it. Also also, mounts and shift linkage. Synchromesh isn't going to fix pop-out issues.

Str8 outta Cliff

That doesn't sound right, you should definitely be able to tighten the countershaft nut without locking everything up you might have something upside down or missing?

dcmatt

iTrader: (7)

Mounts and shift linkage are good. Scha a possibility? So the slider wouldnt cause it to pop out?

dcmatt

iTrader: (7)

Possible. This was my first time. I didnt have any pieces left over.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

You've messed something up putting it back together. you could have tweaked or bent a shift fork, have a shim/spacer in the wrong spot, etc. it definitely shouldn't seize up when you tighten the counter shaft nut, unless you installed one of the gear cluster wrong/upside down.

dcmatt

iTrader: (7)

Hhmmm everything works good except the first gear pop out and still has a 2nd gear grind. The slider shouldnt have been reused but i didnt have a choice at the time. It seems the more i work it between 1st n 2nd the better it gets. It feels like the better it engages the less it pops out. When it doesnt feel smooth itll popout. I know with the old slider and new synchros it was a lil rough shifting it by hand before reassembly compared to 3-4. 1st only pops out when i go to take off. If it holds its fine. It doesnt popout was ive started going in 1st

OneBadTurboCRV

For the pop out you may have had a bad Synchro Spring in there. Usually it is best to just replace them anytime you take apart the gear set if they look out of round. Some people flip them but it is best to just replace. A whole set costs around $45 so it is a cheap peace of mind to maintain.

The grinding could be caused by a couple things - the teeth on the synchro/hub/sleeves are beyond repair or weren't shaped properly. Or you deformed the synchro or flipped the dual synchro (if your trans has one - since you didn't state which one you had) which is easier to do than you would think.

As far as binding the gear stack, you either severely rebuilt it wrong or you simply WAY over tightened it. What spec did you torque the nut to?

The Transmission Forum will yield much better results than here though.

dcmatt

iTrader: (7)

It has new synchro springs. Im 100% confident the 2nd gear grind is from the sleeve/hub. I probably overtightened it to bind it. Like i side manually shifting the slider between 1-2 on the countershaft before assembly wasnt super smooth already. Might just try and pick up a parts tranny or bite the bullet and pick up a new hub/slider.

Theres other forums besides FI ��

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

So i stumbled across this on eBay...




steering wheel off of an A1 GP car, basically a single chassis/engine spec F1 racing class.

has a 3 line display for lap times, gear indicator, rpm, whatever you want to display with a sequential led shift light along with micro switch paddle shifters for sequential transmissions or any auto that can be manually shifted spa quick release, etc. It also has full mil-spec wiring and amphenol connectors.

I've been wanting to build a wheel like this for my civic forever. the wheel mounted displays have gotten cheap but this wheel has everything I wanted to do to one already done and it came off of an F1 car... or hell just sit it on my office desk lol ( the gauge cluster from Mario Andrettis 1983 FORD/LOLA COSWORTH is on eBay right now in a desk display case lol)

the low low price of 3,800 dollars. when you consider that's at least 15,000 dollars to precisely replicate it's not bad. hell the paddles, micro switches, and wiring components cost more than that.

I think tomorrow I'll list a bunch of extra parts for sale lol. although it would make a nice early birthday present... hint hint (even though it's in October I'll gladly take early gifts or a donation to the race fund haha)

all the cool **** comes up for sale when I'm flat broke

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

That is pretty damn nifty. Not really my style, but I dig it.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Yea if anything it would make an awesome conversation starter

but could you imagine being at some road course and seeing that wheel inside a civic? People's facial expressions would be worth it lol

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

I'm stuck at a bit of an impasse with my current build. I'm probably about $600-$700 away from having everything I need to drop this built B in. Clutch is decided, bolts are decided, break-in oil decided, transmission sitting in the living room, engine fully assembled and sitting in the bedroom, but I'm on the fence with my mounting solution. I'm 99% sure I'm going with Innovative (although Avid is on my mind), but I'm stuck between two options. Option 1, run 85A rear torque mount, 75A driver and passenger mounts, and no front torque mounts. I know plenty of people push a lot more power than I will with that setup, so I'm not worried about that. Option 2, run 75A rear, 75A or 65A sides, and my solid fronts.

Option 1 advantages:
Don't have to buy torque mount brackets, ~$150 cheaper
Remove my AC system, reduce weight, ask $300 for the full system, accept $200, call it a day.
No front mounts or AC = less clutter = "cleaner" engine bay
Total savings: ~$350. Mount kit only costs a little under $300, so I'll end up making money off of it, in a "funny accounting" sort of way.

Option 1 disadvantage:
No more AC

Option 2 advantages:
Keep AC
Retain all mount locations (unnecessary, but still worth calling a plus)

Option 2 disadvantages:
...Keep AC
added ~$150 to cost

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

I can also imagine the look on the faces of the inspection techs, who decide to slap you into some weirdass class because of it

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

With a good set of mounts you don't need the two front torque mounts. I had innovative mounts, the red race or whatever with no torque mounts and my motor didn't move at all.

If you want to keep ac and not use the front torque mounts then just cut the mounting spindle off of the mounting bracket.

although you're going to be amazed at how poorly your ac system works with a hot turbo manifold and turbine housing radiating heat into the ac condenser, not to mention the hot air from the intercooler.

it will never quite be cold and will quickly get warmer and warmer until the ac compressor ***** the bed. 99% of people who try to keep ac on a turbo b, d, f, or h motor ultimately end up removing it because it doesn't work or fails entirely.

just roll the windows down and drive faster lol. you can always order the ac delete heat only airbox piece, on a typical warm day the air being pulled through the cowl will be enough to keep you from sweating and you'll still have fully functional vents and heat

I'm going with 100% solid billet mounts this time around, still no torque mounts.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Even better LOL. I know I'll crush supercars.

I have seen firsthand how they modify a typical aftermarket whel for that setup and I know where to get a similar display, paddles, and buttons like the one above and I could do it well under 3800 but to me the fun part is that the wheel has a history...

it came off of a legit V10 F1 car which just knocks the cool factor and rare factor out of the park, how many people can say their steering wheel came off of an F1 car lol. normally these wheels, if you can find them for sale, are way way more expensive than this.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, I honestly don't remember the last time I turned on my AC. I was planning on digging through the parts catalog to find the air box...since the CX didn't come with AC from the factory, I assume that'd be the car to look at.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Well, scratch that idea...Majestic lists the AC airbox part # for both the CX and the DX (non-A/C). That seems a bit counterintuitive.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

if you look at a parts diagram on majestics site pick a model that didn't have ac, that's the best way to be sure

IIRC 92-95 and 96-00 civics use the same ac delete piece. I got one from a Honda parts site for like 10 bucks lightly used. they shipped it in an oem Honda parts box and OEM packaging

I'll see if I can find the site.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

I was looking through Majestic, and I looked at the 96 CX (which I know AC was a dealer option, not a factory option), and the 96 DX (which has separate listings for the AC and non-AC models), and both parts diagrams listed the full AC condenser box. I found an AC delete/bypass duct, but it's listed for the EK4/EK9, and I have no clue if there's a difference between the RHD and LHD air box...

this is the one I found. I'm just gonna store it here for future use.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

The OEM part number is

79810-SR3-A01

it fits all 92-00 civics

the company I got mine from for 15 dollars appears to be out of business.