LeeMajors19082

Well I'm using low impedance FIC 850's and my tuner said, and showed me a graph on the dyno, that the "duty cycle" (iirc?) was increasing drastically at that boost-level/rpm and that this was usually indicative of the fuel pump not keeping up...? He suggested rewiring it with a heavier gauge wire and using a 30a relay. He also said, and I've read many other threads saying this, that the Walbro 255's have issues on OEM wiring... so it just seems like a logical place to start. Also, there were no voltages drops recorded in any of the logs taken that day, so I'm not really sure what else it could be?

Mickle

What Bumper Is That? Looks sexy af. For what year and model?

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

It's just a stock bumper with an eBay aftermarket front lip. That's it. No company, no frills.

Aradin

It's a 96-97 bumper to be more specific. The lip appears to be an SiR lip. Now whether or not it's genuine, who knows. The fitment appears pretty poor so I'm going to guess probably not.

LeeMajors19082

I'm finally ready to revisit this fuel pump wiring situation..... have any of you done this mod? And if so can you plz pm me...thx.

slysi92

Hey guys, i hope ya wont mind if i ramble for a sec cause my brain hurts and i need some direction. long story made short, 4th gen prelude, h23 and a broken t belt, sold the h23 and was stuck on f20b h22 h23a then some how got turned onto the idea of boosted f22, i read this thread and other threads and forums and was looking for f22a non vtec to build. i was starting to piece together the parts for the build in my head and on paper and then a wrecked 94 accord basically fell into my lap and now for the cost of a case of beer and a few hours of my time i have a f22b1 sitting on my engine stand and i'm stuck on should i proceed or go back to the non vtec plan. i read about the head flow and manifold swaps and options on both and so much other info that my head hurts and i'm stuck. LeeMajors19082 your build thread has been an awesome to read and makes me think i should just build the B. i am new to FI always been a NA guy. my basic plan thus far is to rebuild the motor using bisimoto rods and piston combo, f23 IM if i stay with the 22B and just aim to get the car back on the road and drive it NA while i acquire the parts for boost and valve train upgrade. i'm not looking to build any sort of monster here, just a fun summer time toy that will get me to work, cruise nights and cars and coffee with my kids and the occasional trip to the open drags or auto x event. i tell my self 250 to 300hp is target. so insight and and direction please. is A or B better then the other or a horse a piece? any pointers do's dont's? block wise, i read 400+ is doable on stock block, but then see alot of guys with the cnc werx blocks, and i also still remember the old school block guards, is any of this needed or recommended for my goals or just am i just over thinking things?

H22Honda98

I don't think you'll really go wrong either way as long as you build a quality setup. Imo, Head flow this and intake manifold flow that isn't going to make gigantic improvements in this case. If you're thinking that hard about it, just skip the F altogether and get an H22. You also do not need pistons and rods to push these engines too the 250-300whp mark. These engines, like most all Honda engines of this era, can handle that no problem if you're using a good condition engine to begin with. I'd pass on the block guard as well.

the F22s have the potential to make a **** ton of torque and have very very nice, broad, and streetable powerbands if you choose the correct turbo and let them breathe. I would make that your focus above anything else. I run the STC Hunter turbo on my F22B DOHC and the powerband its absolutely fantastic. Do some research and make sure you get a properly sized turbo... These engines don't have the rev range to make a fun car if you're spinning up over 5k just to get positive pressure. This is doubly important if autox is in your future.

slysi92

Thanks for the response, I think I calmed my self down a bit and did some more reading and I'm just gonna stick with the 22b I have add f23 IM and do a rebuild. I do think I will spend for good rods n pistons just cause I'd sleep beter and after furtherthought n reading the block guard options just don't seem worth it for me n what I have in mind as far as use and target. As for the snail specs I'm still learning and researching that. Also didn't metion I kept my trans so will be mated to m2s4 if that matters. Also I have 11lb flywheel and clutch with low miles I kept of the h23. Would like to reuse but have been warned that the light flywheel could do more harm then good performance wise and to take into consideration when choosing turbo. Any advice on that?

H22Honda98

I use the m2s4 as well as like it overall. You heard to take the flywheel into consideration when choosing a turbo? If I'm reading this right, i don't know what they're talking about and have never heard anything like that. Sounds like nonsense. Keep your flywheel if you like it. Make sure your clutch can handle the power you want to put through it though.

slysi92

Yes the flywheel, as it was told to me the lighter flywheel may change the way the runs under boost and or stays in boost under some driving conditions? Said that stock fly wheel maybe better due to lack of counter weight with lightend. But I'm not real sure what kind of driving conditions they refer to, I have the flywheel , so will run it.

H22Honda98

maybe they're referring to lost momentum with lighter flywheels in that sliver of time when you shift... I'm sure its negligible regardless and I'd personally go with whatever is the most comfortable to drive. The only things I've really noticed with a lightened flywheel is the revs drop a bit quicker when you shift/ rev in neutral and they're more touchy to start off in first. I run oem just out of preference/ ease of use. What clutch are you using?

slysi92

Yeah think that's what they were refering to, anyway it's a fidanza wheel and exedy stage 1 clutch, well see how it goes most likely look at upgrade when the boost comes. Focus on next few months is get engine re built and car driving and then learn,plan,save and aquire boost parts.

H22Honda98

Yeah you're definitely going to need a better clutch for longevity purposes if your goal is 250-300.

LeeMajors19082

I've got a quick question for the Turbo-F community:

How dangerous, or how much of a fire hazard, is a small oil leak that's landing on the downpipe?

PTVDesign

to burn oil without flame is difficult

Aradin

I've had a ton of different setups over the years. All sorts of clutches, stock flywheel(which are around 22lbs IIRC, pretty heavy), "lightweight" 11.5lb flywheel, etc etc. The stock flywheel is probably the best for daily driving as it's pretty smooth and forgiving with the right clutch setup. However if you use it with a ceramic puck style clutch disk it will wear VERY fast considering it's only cast iron. The 11.5lb is what I'm using now and it's chromoly steel. Very tough, very little wear over time. The lightweight flywheel is a pretty great improvement in making the car feel quicker and more responsive lower in the rev range. It's not that much more unforgiving to drive and most people will get used to taking off with it in a couple of weeks. The car also feels less "bogged down" at high rpms with the lightweight flywheel, if that makes sense. Feels like it's just having to do less work for the same result. Are there actual tangible performance results in the form of hp/tq increase? I dunno but it certainly does feel a bit more fun to drive.

As for the clutch, I would recommend staying with a full face sprung organic disk as long as you can. Something like the ACT HDSS. They will be the easiest to drive, be the easiest on flywheel/pressure plate surfaces and last the longest.
You'll be fine. It'll just make a small amount of smoke and stink.

LeeMajors19082

If anyone here has an aftermarket cam regrind for the F22b1 head, that they want to sell, plz get ahold of me as I'm currently on the hunt to make an upgrade... thx in advance

LeeMajors19082

Has anyone seen this?:
It's an F22a1-6 (I'm not sure which one?) And I'm still trying to wrap my head around it.... how is the block withstanding 30+psi of boost?! Does anyone have more info on this build I can't find anything online so if anyone knows what's been done to this engine plz hmu or reply. Thx

Todallybuilt

iTrader: (1)

Yup saw it last night, Brent is an incredible tuner, he does magic when he tunes lol. I wish PFI Speed was in my hometown.

2x0

God kicked the dyno rollers

LeeMajors19082

Agreed! And yea I wish there were more good tuners around too. I'm still curious what was done to this motor though?... a tune is one thing, but for an F-series block to hold 1000hp!?... there had to be some serious mods done to it? Anyway, I tried contacting the builder but they're in the process of moving out to Texas so he said he'd get back to me when the move was done... I'm not going to hold my breath though. My hope is that someone will pop up that's familiar with the build and give us some much needed insight.

Lol! Yea that was pretty comical... and maybe not so far fetched? I mean 1000+hp from an open-deck block!? Come on!? REALLY?!!!

Chance EG

I'm sure it's sleeved and quite possibly closed deck now.

LeeMajors19082

That was my though; CSS, or something of that nature... I hope he gets back to me with some info on the build.

LeeMajors19082

While I'm here; does anyone know of a COP conversion for F22B1, other than Hondata that will work with Neptune?

slysi92

does anyone have any good reference on where to install the oil return fitting in the pan? i'm putting the lower end together now and would like to install the fitting before the pan goes on. leemajors i tried looking at your build thread, any better pics of the fitting? thanks in advance