twkdCD595

Well I might have over estimated the space a little. Thanks 5thgen for the correction and the pictures. It really is not much closer than my old one use to be (which I ran unwrapped for 2 years) but as I said it will be probably coated and/or wrapped.

ETA: If the downpipe is 2000 degrees surface temp... the alternator is the least of my problems.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

1800-2000 is normal under high load/high boost.

nothing stainless/mild glows until 1800F

twkdCD595

2000 degree EGT's are not what I would consider normal or safe imo. You are piston melting hot at that kind of EGT.

twkdCD595

Hoping the -16AN fittings flow enough and the Afco radiator keeps it cool. I know the stock full length radiator was larger width/ height but was only a tiny 5/8" thick core. The new one is 3" thick and despite being slightly smaller width/ height it is more surface area for cooling.

Lower hose picture for reference of where we are using the fittings.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Turbo motors regularly see EGTs over 1500F, most closer to 1800F. aluminium melts at 1220F, EGTs don't mean jack about what the physical metal sees as the whole combustion process happens too fast.

if you were to dyno your car in the dark you'd see the manifold, turbine housing, and downpipe glow bright orange... indicative of surface temps over 1800F

5thgen

I would say 2000 is high, 1500-1600 more normal. I've never seen a car with temps around 2000. And the steel can get fairly orange/red around with 1500-1600 egts running through them.

Either way....He knows that this stuff gets hot, he already mentioned coating/wrapping the downpipe. His last setup (~5 years old?) had the same clearance to the downpipe, and to runner #1. The plug did not melt, and the alternator did not malfunction.

At worst, a thin stainless shield will be made to bolt onto the alternator if needed.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Yea I've seen a lot of stainless steel shields, they work surprisingly well.

we made a set for s13s to shield the brake master from the downpipe and had them ceramic coated... work wonders.

If you do a lot of highway driving or circuit driving it's not uncommon to see EGTs peak at 1800F. Regardless if it's 1500 or 1800 that's still a lot of radiant heat

Str8 outta Cliff

Nice work man, I don't think you will have any issues with that setup. I have the same radiator with -16AN fitings and the top hose is just starting to kink (need to order a 15degree hose-end to replace the straight) and even with a small 8" fan I have zero cooling issues.

I'm not making as much power as you, I'm only at 250whp but when I dyno'd the car in November the temp were about 50F and we actually had to run the car for a minute or two at low-rpm between pulls because it was cooling off too much lol

The one thing I did have to do was add a bleeder valve on the one side of the radiator (you can see the bung in this pic)

I tried running it with a pipe plug at first but it was impossible to fill/bleed the system I was getting a bad airlock. I installed a common drain petcock and as long as you make sure to open it when you're filling the rad and for the first warmup it's fine.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Since the radiator is the lowest point in the system you really need a filler/swirl pot on the outlet neck. it's the only way to vent all the air out of the system.

twkdCD595

Interesting, appreciate the info! I am running a 13" spal 1300ish cfm pusher and stock temp thermostat on it to start with.

What motor you running this on? I am assuming by the photobucket folder name prelude project that it is on a f/h series car?

Interesting on the petcock. Although 5thgen has added a neck to mine on the stop of the passenger end tank so I am not sure I will need it.

Yea I figured it would need to be bled with a Lisle funnel.

Str8 outta Cliff

No problem, it's actually on a B20a bastard b-series motor (3rd gen prelude). I wish I could run a bigger fan but with my current setup I just didn't have room for anything bigger. Still stock thermostat as well, motor gets up to about 205F sitting in traffic on hot days and drops down to 190 pretty fast at under speed.






I think with running the waterneck on top of the passenger side endtank you will be fine, that's where the air seems to sit.

I have my filler installed on the thermostat housing, I knew something was up when I went to fill the rad/motor the first time and after about 1L of coolant on a completely dry system I could not add anymore even with a funnel 12" above the motor. But I had an idea what was going on since the radiator did come with a bung in that location.

I think running a seperate swirl pot/filler tank as wantboost mentioned would be ideal, or even just running a line from the bung on the endtank up to the filler location but the petcock was the easiest thing to try and I haven't had any issues so I think I will just leave it.

Now when I'm filling the system, I just open it up and add coolant until it starts coming out the outlet. I then crack it a couple more during warmup and after the thermostat opens and after that I've never had to touch it.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

yea really running a line from the top of the end tank to the filler location works, and it's really what is supposed to be done.

the nice thing about the swirl tank is it's constantly bleeding the system, I've seen swirl pot systems stay 100% air free

twkdCD595

Originally I was looking at putting the filler on the front water outlet as well but it looked like it was going to cause some issues.

205 sitting in traffic on a hot day is not to bad, what is a 'hot day' up there for you all?

I notice you do not have anything blocking off the open area around the sides of the radiator in the picture? I am just asking cause I was thinking of blocking off the open areas to the side of mine so the airflow is forced to go through the radiator instead of around it at those low pressure areas.

Str8 outta Cliff

The hottest we get up here is around 85F but the humidity can get pretty high in my area 75% plus isn't uncommon.

I actually made up some cardboard templates and have meant to make some blockoff plates for the side of the radiator but never got around to actually making them up, and I haven't had any cooling issues so it hasn't really been a priority.

Right now I'm just running a filter straight off my turbo, so I almost think the extra fresh air coming around could be a good thing for the engine but eventually I do plan to make something up.

met

nothing like the hot sticky south...
http://usatoday30.usatoday.com/weath...p-relhum_x.htm
Dew point is a much better indicator of moisture in the air.

twkdCD595

Things have begun spinning... getting closer.

accordturb96

God I would have rather used that mani than Spoolins. I have the exhaust and intake system waaay to close to one another. Not clean at all.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Well I've decided to keep my trusty 250k mile f22a1. My initial concern was the cost of replacement motors locally (350 minimum) and not knowing how good of shape they are in. since my motor just started burning oil everywhere I need to do something.

I was also afraid of the cost of an OEM rebuild but I found a reputable company that sells a "major rebuild" kit for 268. Has new bearings, pistons, wrist pins, rings, every seal and gasket, water pump, oil pump, timing kit, etc.

So in keeping with the "budget build because the car was free" theme I think this is what I'm going to do. Only I'm going to use a Gates racing belt (blue one) in place of the kit belt, kaizenspeed balance shaft delete, port/shim the oil pump, spring/retainers and a delta 272 regrind cam, k20 rbc intake manifold (yes it works)

then use all of my spare turbo and honda **** and build a 300hp dd for less than 2000 dollars.. probably closer to 1000-1500 with all of my spare stuff from standalones to turbo ****

twkdCD595

Drove the car back home from 5thgen's this past Sunday and wow! I could not be happier with things. So Sunday it was 97 degrees out and I had a 40 minute ride to go home. I was a bit anxious given the brand new radiator setup, lines, etc... but fortunately it only seen a peak temp of 192 cruising and 195 sitting idling after the drive!

Some exhaust pictures.

Next to the old 3" stainless exhaust.






Clearance is as good or better than my old 3" thanks to how well 5thgen fit everything. It is amazingly well done. Sounds great, nice and deep... albeit the aluminum has a unique tone to it.

accordturb96

twkdCD595 I posted the picture on here Ive been talking to you about. What are you guys that stick with the f22b2 and original intake doing with this vacuum box? Im assuming it would blow lines off under boost or am I over thinking the issue Thanks guys

twkdCD595

I am running a F22b1 with now an F23a1 intake so I did not have that to deal with personally, but if you are not using those vac nipples just cap them off. Put a small ziptie on the cap as well to be sure they stay on and do not come off to cause a vac leak.

accordturb96

alright Ill try that. I was concerned with boost kicking them off. Thanks man

Aradin

Your exhaust looks awesome. You should make a video with some varying loads. I'd be interested to hear how the tone is different from stainless.

twkdCD595

A decent fitting cap and a ziptie has been fine for me when I have had to cap something off.

Thank you, 5thgen deserves all the credit on that. I will try to get some video at some point. Admittedly I do not have a gopro or anything but I know someone who does youtube racing video so I will have to bother him.

Video taken of it idling when first done. It had not been running for a bit so it was misfiring a little for 10 seconds or so before it cleans up. Turbo is going back to Precision for a rebuild soon, seems to have started smoking a little as you can tell. Been 6 years or so of abusing it.

accordturb96

sounds nice! Which muffler is this?