***The Official JRSC Thread***
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I believe there is more to be said here; I don't think this is a one size fits all application.... With my RC 440's, I am at an 79% duty cycle at redline, and that is with my my map sensor reading just 5.5 psi. If I spin the blower faster and flow even more air, I don't see how those injectors could supply enough fuel upon installing the smaller nose cone pulley, etc.
re: ***The Official JRSC Thread
hey does anyone know anything about vortech superchargers? will a gsr vortech sc work with a b16a ? there btoh a v-5 right so im guessing ya?
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re: ***The Official JRSC Thread
shredded a belt 3 days ago... I come to find out that the bolt that goes through the top of the alternator fell out... Found the bolt at lowes and bought a couple.
Can you guys tell me whats the best way to line up the belts. I let the car warm up and run for like 5 minutes. Then drove the car under hard acceleration 1st through half of 3rd. Came back to my house, popped my hood and both belts were sliding off... 315 i quuzed on there last time and then it got shredded.
I thought it lined up but maybe these new belts were too long. I have the LS crank with a 40330 belt and up top with the 4.0 pulley im running the 40245.. Last time i think my alternator was pushed towards the engine and not allowing the 235 to fit. Right now with the two larger belts the tensioners are tightened all the way...
Im off to buy a 40322, hope this works.
NVM Page 117 has my solution.
Can you guys tell me whats the best way to line up the belts. I let the car warm up and run for like 5 minutes. Then drove the car under hard acceleration 1st through half of 3rd. Came back to my house, popped my hood and both belts were sliding off... 315 i quuzed on there last time and then it got shredded.
I thought it lined up but maybe these new belts were too long. I have the LS crank with a 40330 belt and up top with the 4.0 pulley im running the 40245.. Last time i think my alternator was pushed towards the engine and not allowing the 235 to fit. Right now with the two larger belts the tensioners are tightened all the way...
Im off to buy a 40322, hope this works.
NVM Page 117 has my solution.
Last edited by Gold DA9; 05-01-2010 at 02:39 PM.
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ugh... hope this works tomorrow. Will take pics of what happen before i change it.
Belts in my possesion 330, 320, 235, 245. Currently on and apparently running off 330 and 245.
Belts in my possesion 330, 320, 235, 245. Currently on and apparently running off 330 and 245.
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re: ***The Official JRSC Thread
Belt squeal......
New belts free of oil
Tight/Loose same constant squeal, drove it about 100 miles this way and belts look fine. Anything above 2k has a constant squeal that doesn't increase or decrease.
New belts free of oil
Tight/Loose same constant squeal, drove it about 100 miles this way and belts look fine. Anything above 2k has a constant squeal that doesn't increase or decrease.
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Not sure if someone mentioned this before, but it looks like the valve cover is grounded, not the motor.
Wow, using 440's for that setup? I was at 80% duty on my 440's with just the stepper pulley and LHT cooler. I just bought some 750's to give myself some room with the smaller nose pulley and other items still needing to be done.
Any report on power output yet? I am very interested
Wow, using 440's for that setup? I was at 80% duty on my 440's with just the stepper pulley and LHT cooler. I just bought some 750's to give myself some room with the smaller nose pulley and other items still needing to be done.
Any report on power output yet? I am very interested
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I believe there is more to be said here; I don't think this is a one size fits all application.... With my RC 440's, I am at an 79% duty cycle at redline, and that is with my my map sensor reading just 5.5 psi. If I spin the blower faster and flow even more air, I don't see how those injectors could supply enough fuel upon installing the smaller nose cone pulley, etc.
There is something wrong with your setup. Either your boost gauge is inaccurate, your belts are slipping, you have a leak, or something of the sort.
I am at 9.0 PSI with the 3.8 snout pulley (dead on to what pulley chart tells me) and I am at only 76% duty cycle with 440's. Granted it was lean condition but even after correcting the map I don't think I went over 79% duty cycle.
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Wow, using 440's for that setup? I was at 80% duty on my 440's with just the stepper pulley and LHT cooler. I just bought some 750's to give myself some room with the smaller nose pulley and other items still needing to be done.
Any report on power output yet? I am very interested
Why are you so worried about injector duty? No one should worry about going to a bigger less efficient injector until they start seeing 95%+ duty.
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There is something wrong with your setup. Either your boost gauge is inaccurate, your belts are slipping, you have a leak, or something of the sort.
I am at 9.0 PSI with the 3.8 snout pulley (dead on to what pulley chart tells me) and I am at only 76% duty cycle with 440's. Granted it was lean condition but even after correcting the map I don't think I went over 79% duty cycle.
I am at 9.0 PSI with the 3.8 snout pulley (dead on to what pulley chart tells me) and I am at only 76% duty cycle with 440's. Granted it was lean condition but even after correcting the map I don't think I went over 79% duty cycle.
At 6,600 rpm, the boost level was 6.6 psi in 4th gear. That is a lot closer to the stated 6.8 for my configuration. I need to check my belts again, but now I am not so worried about it. I appreciate your input.
The reason I was concerned about the injector size is that RC states to not go over 80%. If it is perfectly fine to go into the 90's %, then I won't worry about putting the 750's in and will sell them.
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i dont know how old my kit is since it was on my car when i got it. Im waiting for my JR 160 degree thermostat, Manifold coolant fitting, hose, and SC Service Kit. Hoping the thermostat and extra coolant line which they blocked offwill help lower my IATs.
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did everyone miss my post about the Eaton rebuild kit(parts) that are being sold on that zzperformance site? think the parts cost less than $200 total.
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i might sound like a idiot but something about piping even more hot coolant through the manifold just doesnt sound like a recipe to lower iat temps
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I realize that some people may use them, but I do not suggest a low temp thermostat. I had a low temp that came with my car. When using it with the blower, the car took forever to warm up fully (especially in the winter).
I would be ready to make changes to the tune but it was not up to temp, causing adjustments to be made based off of the ECT compensation. My fuel economy suffered as well. Installing the stock thermostat solved that issue.
For the blower to manifold gasket, what percentage use the paper gasket compared to just Hondabond?
I will need to replace it when I drop the blower to change my pulley. Upon my first install of this new kit, I had a mad vacuum leak like you wouldn't believe. The problem was that the gasket had torn during installation. My old kit did not include a gasket and instructed me to use Hondabond.
Who prefers the Hondabond to the paper gasket?
Last edited by MOVE OVER; 05-02-2010 at 01:27 PM. Reason: spelling
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i personally would use the 750s if you have them, running injectors into the 90% range is just asking for one to stick, why on earth someone would want to run and say its safe that at that high of a duty cycle is beyond me
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If you are referring to circulating coolant through the manifold as the intercooler kit from LHT does, then yes, it lowers temps substantially. It is a seperate system from the engine coolant and travels to its own heat exchanger that typically sits in front of your radiator. The water stays a lot cooler than engine's coolant does.
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If you are referring to circulating coolant through the manifold as the intercooler kit from LHT does, then yes, it lowers temps substantially. It is a seperate system from the engine coolant and travels to its own heat exchanger that typically sits in front of your radiator. The water stays a lot cooler than engine's coolant does.
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Lots of guys run their injectors to 100% and never have any trouble. These are guys racing their cars at road events and all not just 1/4 mile stuff.
I remember seeing one buddies log on his evo not long ago that said his injector duty cycle was 110%.
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Depending on what coolant hoses were bypassed it may improve your cooling.
You need to find someone local who knows what they are doing, you seem to be running int a whole lot of problems you do not understand how to fix
+1 for Ultra grey over gasket
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But if he has the injectors is plain stupid to push a part that is less that optimal
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re: ***The Official JRSC Thread
The injector duty cycle is based on time, so if you say your injectors are running at 100%, that means they are open all the time. It is physically impossible for an injector to "actually" have a 110% duty cycle. All it means is that you've told your engine management system to open the injectors for longer than they can possibly be open.
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