It's obvious that I have to switch to 2 wire iacv, but what manifolds work for 2 wire iacv in aware that 1996-1998 d16y8 my intakes work, but do d16z6 inakes work on a y7? Would it be plug and play? Would it be bad to run a intake off of a 92-95 dx? I guess I just don't know where to start on all this.

 

Z6, b7, a6, y8 pretty much any mpfi manifold that uses a 2 wire iacv. Also make sure you get a matching fuel rail to fit the intake manifold.

 

Honestly I think I'm just going to delete my iacv, I still have the fitv for cold starts rights? Mine barely works anyways and it'll be easy to route my turbo water lines just in place of where the iacv goes, won't need a new manifold either.

 

If this vehicle is going to be street driven, you really need to keep the IACV. Deleting it not only makes the ability to properly idle the engine difficult, it also creates a real issue with part throttle operation between idle and 22-2500 rpm.

 

I don't see why it would.. Plenty of carbureted cars don't have it.

 

No jr is right. The iacv helps smooth throttle tip in and out, rarely some cars run smooth with out it but they will usually be pretty jerky without it hooked up.

 

I guess i'll see how I like it before I buy a new manifold, would being on Neptune help my case at all?

 

I don't understand what the issue is here, you are swapping manifolds anyway. Just get one that uses the two wire valve and make the necessary changes to the wiring. It's not rocket science and is well documented.

https://www.hamotorsports.com/3-wire...acv-obd2a.html

 

The iacv delete would be so I don't have to switch manifolds, the whole reason I was switching manifolds in the first place. I just disconnected my iacv and the idle is fine and it drives fine.

 

If it runs smooth without it you’ll be fine. Some cars do some cars don’t.

 

I guess I misread your original post. You intend to keep the Y7 manifold if possible then?

 

Just trying to turbo as reliably and affordable as possible. I already have Neptune/demon now I'm trying to get it working. If I can keep the stock manifold that saves me money.

 

Fair. I'd still look into swapping in a Y8/etc manifold, you'll probably be happy you did it later on, especially when you don't need to get new inlet tubing bent up.

 

That's a good point I forgot about that

 

Well put a carburetor on it then... it should idle fine.

Your level of understanding fuel injection systems is clearly lacking, so you should NOT be installing a turbocharger on your engine... but what do I know, I am just some guy from the South.

 

Well then explain to me what an iacv valve does on a fi system and why it's not required on a carb. At least I'm not coming over with the typical "how much boost on stock ecu" question. As far as I'm concerned I came her to learn about fi systems it's not like I'm installing a turbo next Friday mate. So if you're not going to be helpful then what are you doing on a technical forum?

So the iacv regulates idle correct? This is to compensate for, iat, engine temperature, electronic load, ac, ps ECT... right? A lot of carbureted vehicles still have these issues with no iacv. Iacvs don't work on carburetors because you can't bypass air around a carb. I don't see why it would be any different on a fi vehicle so would you please enlighten me with your infinite wisdom.

 

Iacv helps control idle as well as smooth throttle tip in and out at lower throttle levels. Allot of times when you don’t run one youll get a bad hunt in the lower rpms when just tipping into the throttle. It also helps raise idle when moving so the engine doesn’t die after a pull.

 

Also, carburetors do have idle circuits in them. There is a bypass circuit and one or two screws to adjust idle speed, hot and cold in the case of two-screw adjustment. Factor in choke valves and you actually have a far more complex, although rudimentary, mechanism for idle control. Exact same function, except that the IACV is able to control the idle instead of just having a setting or two to get the engine to idle. The IACV acts as a secondary throttle to modulate how much air bypass the throttle plate at low angles, along with closed loop timing control to maintain a steady idle. The only engines that don't really need some sort of idle bypass circuit are drive-by-wire throttled cars, since they can modulate throttles electronically to maintain idle speed. A lot of those engines still maintain some sort of idle circuit though.

 

I guess I'm just used to 80s motorcycle carbs, very useful info thanks, I guess I might as well upgrade to a y8 intake anyways.

 

I used the skunk2 relocation kit with my Y7 and Hondata. Works great!

 

Too late already bought the manifold

 

Or you could have got something like an Edelbrock Performer X manifold instead. I have one (specified for a D16z6) on mine and it works fine.

 

That's sounds expensive