well im back in the boosted world for the first time in a year or so. while datalogging/tuning i noticed my voltage is a few tenths lower than i remember and than it used to be. currently getting 14.3v idle no load, 14.0v with fan and lights on. i did a pull last night up to about 7k rpm and voltage was down to 13.5v. i dont ever remember it lower than 13.8. well anyway it was getting rich into the mid 10's from the low/mid 11s when its seeing closer to 14v.

im currently adjusting the injector battery offsets to compensate but i feel theres another issue here. using neptune, precision 880s, walbro 255 stock wiring, oe resistor box (all of which ive used for years together without this issue)

how low is too low on volts?
the battery is a bit old now, but has 12.5v when tested car off which i think is ballpark...

 

Resting voltage on a battery doesn't tell you if it good or bad. You need to test the voltage under a load. Any battery shop can do it for you typically free of charge.

I see my voltage drop into the high 13s sometimes when reviewing logs, but it doesn't affect my afrs. I'd say your batter injector offsets need a little love. Warm the car up then disconnect the alternator at the fuse box, then see what happens to your afrs and adjust the battery offsets for that voltage to bring them back to normal if they changed.

 

Sounds normal to me. I see the same voltage behavior in most cars, non-hondas too.

Just adjust the battery offsets. I don't recommend disconnecting your alternator, just turn accessories on at idle. I can get voltage to drop into 12's if I have brights on, rear defrost, cabin fan maxed, dome lights on, and try to roll up already rolled up windows (Large load there).

 

Agree on the Injector battery offset tuning. Regardless of what the manufacturer supplies for values I always find this table needs tuning. However its really easy once you get a solid AFR at your baseline voltage.

 

In your ems setting injector battery offset may not be clibrated correctly

 

so I believe I found the issue it was the tps sensor. I was using a sk2 alpha 66mm and for whatever reason I had to clock the **** out of it to get somewhat reasonable wot voltage. well looking over data logs I noticed it kept changing its output from what I calibrated it at causing it to only see like 70-80% when I had it pinned. ill recalibrate max min volts and take it for a spin again once it cools down it was damn near 100 today

 

That's not related to your original post what so ever. Sounds like a bad TPS sensor.

 

I know. I noticed the voltage change and the afr change and thought they were correlated since the afr issue happened under higher load with the fuel pump working harder. this is also where the wot but lower tps voltage came into play. idk im loosing my mechanical touch the less and less car stuff I do I guess...