Hi All, I have no experience in the ECM tuning field and only know that I will need help figuring out what will be best route to get my New build broke in before Dyno Tuning. Issues that will prevent me from simply using a P72/P73 ecu or my previous B16A tune on my chipped P28 is that My new build will be running 13:1+ CR@ sea level but average altitude where I live is between 5800-6600 ft so it will be more like 12.2:1 CR and to support that properly I will be running strictly E85. When I will take my build to be Dyno Tuned it will be on Neptune chip license not a full RTP setup for the time being.
here are the basics of the build:
B20 Vtec w/B16A head: E85 fuel only
Full 2.5'' exhaust system RMF Header
ITR Intake Manifold, 70mm TB, Custom intake w/Vstack air filter in air box
ITR 99+ spec Cams(place holders until I get a more aggressive set hopefully before Dyno)
FIC 775CC fuel injectors/ supplied by 255lph pump and adjustable FPR.
Forged Weisco 13:1CR pistons( because of altitude closer to 12-12.4:1)

Now Issues with the region I live in is it can get to 0 degree Fahrenheit which is why I chose such large injectors to help with cold cranking for E85.

I have seen both Xencron and HAmotorsports offer custom base maps burned to chips for order for basic running profile to get your vehicle to run and was hoping someone had some advice on if using one of these would be suitable to use for the break in period approx 750-1000 miles, 45 mile commute daily so I should be ready to get Dyno Tuned in approx a 3 weeks after build is completed to running status.

Any and all advice is much appreciated.

 

I've had terrible luck with flow rates on FIC.
I digress, there's absolutely no way to buy a basemap for E85 that'll run worth a damn.
There's no easy or cheap way to base this engine.
Start with the P73 maps, adjust flow rate to 515cc, increase overall fuel trim by 18%.
Tune the fuel maps with a wideband, and you should be fine until you dyno.
Do NOT drive on a basemap on this build without wideband tuning.

 

Yeah I kind of thought it was a long shot to expect anything from a base map, hopefully The tuner I plan on using can help me out a bit, if not maybe a friend will know someone who can.

 

Sounds to me like you're a good candidate for towing to the shop and breaking in right on the dyno. Skip all the hassle that way.

 

Hah yeah that may be an option depending on what becomes necessary, I am seeing what the Tuning shop thinks would be smart....I still prefer the safety of doing a full break in over 750-1000 miles....I really dont want the possibility of a metal shaving killing a bearing prematurely(yes I have a magnetic oil plug but still you never know right.

 

The chances of a metal sliver taking out your engine during dyno break-in is much much smaller than a bad base tune doing damage.

I would imagine that your tuner would allow for an oil change during the tune/break-in if necessary.