Mpg build
I know but when gas is 4$ gallon and you drive 100
Miles a day. Every drop counts. The question is can I run a chipped ecu witha base map of a p07 and have the vetec e broadened so that im in lean burn a little more? Possibly also just lean out some more of the fuel tables as well? I have no e check here. I know that I can't chip a p07 I do have a p06 laying around. And I want to do this on a budget. Yes no hondata 300 as much a I would love to. Could some one burn me a couple of EPROMs for a reasonable price. I can convert the ecu that's not a problem. Actually if it could and wod work proven by results I would consider the 300 setup. I just don't want to throw money away and all I keep hearing is nobody want to tune those. Please chime in. I guess also I I could even lean out the fuel tables on a p05 for the cx? Who's got a burner and wants to help? Oh yeah it would be for a stock vx d15z1.
Miles a day. Every drop counts. The question is can I run a chipped ecu witha base map of a p07 and have the vetec e broadened so that im in lean burn a little more? Possibly also just lean out some more of the fuel tables as well? I have no e check here. I know that I can't chip a p07 I do have a p06 laying around. And I want to do this on a budget. Yes no hondata 300 as much a I would love to. Could some one burn me a couple of EPROMs for a reasonable price. I can convert the ecu that's not a problem. Actually if it could and wod work proven by results I would consider the 300 setup. I just don't want to throw money away and all I keep hearing is nobody want to tune those. Please chime in. I guess also I I could even lean out the fuel tables on a p05 for the cx? Who's got a burner and wants to help? Oh yeah it would be for a stock vx d15z1.
I've done this and here's a writeup I put together about how to do this with your EMS. There are other websites about getting great MPG such as ecomodder where some people are getting 70+ MPG in their Hondas.
http://www.calcmaster.net/honda/fuel-economy-mpg/
http://www.calcmaster.net/honda/fuel-economy-mpg/
When doing this sort of MPG build it would be best to use det cans (knock sensors), wideband O2 sensor(s) and exhaust temp sensors. You can't just add timing and reduce fuel without really knowing what the engine is doing in return. Using a trial and error type approach can be counter productive or in a wort case, melt a piston or valve.
yes i know it should be tuned with all the proper stuff but if someone has already done so there shoud be some base maps out there, as i now have found. It is a stock sutup and the d15z1 uses a wideband setup from the factory. I'm on a budget i know you cant have your cake and eat it to.
IMO you'd be better off sticking with your stock setup than trying to get MPG out of a basemap.
But here's to trying
Let us know how you make out!
So did all 8 cars get the same MPG using the same ROM/Tune, or did they all require tuning?
I know with tuning for power no one setup is the same as another. Therefore basemaps or email ROM tunes are usually just that. A base at which to start a real tune. they never seem to run the same on different vehicles.
But here's to trying

Let us know how you make out!
I know with tuning for power no one setup is the same as another. Therefore basemaps or email ROM tunes are usually just that. A base at which to start a real tune. they never seem to run the same on different vehicles.
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The biggest part of MPG is having the discipline to change your driving style. And if you keep your throttle below columns 7-10 while cruising then you can avoid modifying your map in this area where changes are more dangerous to your engine.
+maintenance (especially tire pressure!)
Accelerate smoothly, keep the revs low, and remember there is really no need to go over 70. Guaranteed 10% increase.
Oh and mpguino. Look it up.
Last edited by spAdam; Nov 25, 2012 at 06:07 AM.
i get 42 all day long in my cx as stated above drive sane. maintence and tire pressure. so im hardly ever on it and im just kinda looking to see if it is possible. and yes you dont change the wot maps or you will blow stuff up. if you could be in lean burn quicker easier and more often 3 4 5 gear cruising all would go a long way to save feul and none are that crazey of mods or tunes. yes i will report back as i hope to be a ginnea pig of sorts.
The CX trans is pretty long. Not sure how it compares to the VX trans though. 42 is pretty good for that 8 valve motor, especially considering you're working with a 20 year old car. How many miles are on it? May be time to consider things such as wheel bearings, bushings, steering tie rods, etc. in a push to maximize the chassis.
Keep in mind that, as you head toward the lean burn, you're not accomplishing a lot until you get above 16:1. The rub is that once you get into that region your exhaust temps start going sky high... this is the danger zone where you can burn exhaust valves and/or destroy you cat. If you've ever looked at a chart of the different emissions gases, the NOx emissions represent this area pretty well since they are caused directly by high combustion temps.

If you want to lean burn, you're going to need to get up over this hump and out of the critical zone, above 17:1 or so. If you can keep the flame lit and making power there, go for it. You're going to need to add timing to get back to MBT since the flame front will travel slower in the less dense charge. The only safe and reliable way to do this is through a spark hook procedure on a load bearing/steady state dyno. You're also most likely going to hit a point of diminishing returns since the motor is going to begin losing power, requiring you to add more throttle and moving you over a load column. If you look at that graph, that's represented by the area where the HC's start coming back up. That is a representation of lean misfire.
Alternatively, look around at some of the stuff the hypermilers do, a lot of it looks pretty ghetto but it seems to work and is almost free. Things like ducting hot air into the motor (less dense so less fuel and less power), putting resistors in the iat wire to modify the temp that the motor "thinks" its running at, etc. are not uncommon with that crowd.
Keep in mind that, as you head toward the lean burn, you're not accomplishing a lot until you get above 16:1. The rub is that once you get into that region your exhaust temps start going sky high... this is the danger zone where you can burn exhaust valves and/or destroy you cat. If you've ever looked at a chart of the different emissions gases, the NOx emissions represent this area pretty well since they are caused directly by high combustion temps.

If you want to lean burn, you're going to need to get up over this hump and out of the critical zone, above 17:1 or so. If you can keep the flame lit and making power there, go for it. You're going to need to add timing to get back to MBT since the flame front will travel slower in the less dense charge. The only safe and reliable way to do this is through a spark hook procedure on a load bearing/steady state dyno. You're also most likely going to hit a point of diminishing returns since the motor is going to begin losing power, requiring you to add more throttle and moving you over a load column. If you look at that graph, that's represented by the area where the HC's start coming back up. That is a representation of lean misfire.
Alternatively, look around at some of the stuff the hypermilers do, a lot of it looks pretty ghetto but it seems to work and is almost free. Things like ducting hot air into the motor (less dense so less fuel and less power), putting resistors in the iat wire to modify the temp that the motor "thinks" its running at, etc. are not uncommon with that crowd.
The vx has lean burn that's the joy of v tech e. The cx and vx trans are the same. Yes I know there are mpg gains to be had with all kind of aero mods I don't think I want to delete my alternator and put rear wheel skirts and a full boattail on the car. Possibly a belly pan and some rework of the front air dam. The vx head has roller rockers and it is the only d series motor to have an oil cooler. Probably to deal with these temps. It's all country roads and a little highway. So very steady speeds and I'm never above 3000 rpm. Heck at 65 it's at 2100 in 5th. Yes I've read and looked at all the hypermilers and while they have promising results I feel that there is alot to be gained in the tuning aspect. Yes tire pressure and rolling resistance air drag all play into it I just feel that the tune on the cars is always played on the safe side very much so. I just think I could hit 60 or better consistently. It's rated at 50 so? Well see.
Yes I did like the graph you got a vx or a long commute? 70 miles a day 6 days a week so mpg adds up fast and no I can't really complain about the 42 but why not always room for improvement. Anyone can go fast it's easy to build turbo bore stroke ect mpg alot harder so we'll see.
http://www.aerocivic.com/
Not the route i'ls like to go albeit great more of a novolitly in my mind.
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...amics-312.html
Even a little more extream just in a different manner. I don't need 100 mpg yet who knows mabye the bug will bite no one has seemed to explore this side of it and I'm sure it very feasible. I'll update as I learn or hear more I hope.
http://www.aerocivic.com/
Not the route i'ls like to go albeit great more of a novolitly in my mind.
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...amics-312.html
Even a little more extream just in a different manner. I don't need 100 mpg yet who knows mabye the bug will bite no one has seemed to explore this side of it and I'm sure it very feasible. I'll update as I learn or hear more I hope.
The boat tail is a bit overboard but I've seen some of these get pretty good areo without that. The second one you posted is one of my favorites. I think he went overboard with the alternator and things like that but in the end his car still looked decent and he achieved very good mileage. He really trimmed down a lot of the drag with a very common sense approach. Now drop a boosted B-series in it and see how fast he gets up to top speed, hehe. Sorry, I'll always want to go fast.
Speed is relative I'm 1000 times faster than the kids walking or the horse and buggies I pass. I can go 80 and I don't need tickets. Went fast paid lots wasted money. I prefer the stock look or close to it.
Tuning stock engines is relatively linear; there certainly are variations in each, but they are negligible with base values.
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From: Trapped in time, Surrounded by evil, Low on gas
I have been thinking about getting a three stage VTEC head for my d16 along with the boost and tuning it for lean burn.
theres a basemap on pgmfi.org and xenocron as well
i just swapped a z1 motor in mu auto civic and used that map worked great AFRs were pretty close to stock just no lean burn
i just swapped a z1 motor in mu auto civic and used that map worked great AFRs were pretty close to stock just no lean burn
I want lean burn. Why don't you have it on that setup? I don't want to buy a burner to burn like 2 chips. Right now with a shot 02 I get 42. But with the cel on I know there is no lean burn. I don't want to spend 25$ for a 5$ chip plus shipping. I'm not running some motor that never came in a civic. I'd that setup wouldnt let me get lean burn then it wouldn't be worth it. I'ld be really sad then. Hmm I saw the basemaps that where I got the idea. Why no lean burn...
Of course they all required tuning. However, I tuned 7 of them from the same basemap, which is simply richer with less advance in a few areas I commonly find knock. I'm confident it's safe enough to run without tuning and still yield some benefits. It does require heat range 7 plugs.
I just finished tuning my 2.0L Ford Zetec with a set of stage 2 Compcams to net 23mpg. On a stock ECU tune they were getting 18-19 MPG. Took me a 800km of street tuning to dial it in.
Edit.... I should also mention that there is usually only a small window in RPM/load/MAP range that you will get that sort of MPG out of any engine without using a VVT or CVT system. i.e. VTEC or iVTEC. In witch you still have to tune all stages individually to maximize the potential change in each valve timing event. Again not something that can be precisely done on a computer designed (guesstimated) ROM file.
VegasInvasion, I am in no way trying to dispute your tuning abilities. I'm just pointing out that at the end of the day. The only way to get what the OP is looking for. Is to have his engine tuned at a shop on a dyno/street.
Last edited by GhostAccord; Dec 23, 2012 at 07:39 AM.






