looking to find ref sync (motec)
Hello, im looking to find ref sync signals from the distributor. I had the car running, but it would not rev over 7000 without loosing ref sync modes. I want to know if im using the right selection of ref/sync wires. Im using a jumper harnss modified from a obd2b to obd1, using stock everything other than wiring a vtec solenoid to activate vtec. have a pin out sheet, and i am using the crank and cam sensor pin c8-c20(obd2b)
anything i am missing, please throw that out there, or if im simply using the wrong ones.
anything i am missing, please throw that out there, or if im simply using the wrong ones.
i made it my self
m4, 99 civic
i was using user defined with stock dizzy On my integra i use 5, very low level for both.
ref sensor type- -1
sync sensor type- -1
ref
250 rpms- 500 Mvolts
1000- 2000
2k- 3000
3k- 4000
4.5lk- 5000
sync mag levels
250rpms 5000
1000 500
2000 0
3000 0
4500 0
On my integra with the jgm harness, its set to senor type 5, very low mag. should i set it to this?
m4, 99 civic
i was using user defined with stock dizzy On my integra i use 5, very low level for both.
ref sensor type- -1
sync sensor type- -1
ref
250 rpms- 500 Mvolts
1000- 2000
2k- 3000
3k- 4000
4.5lk- 5000
sync mag levels
250rpms 5000
1000 500
2000 0
3000 0
4500 0
On my integra with the jgm harness, its set to senor type 5, very low mag. should i set it to this?
I had problems with a similar set-up, you still running the stock distributor modifed as your pickup?
If so i believe this, and the fact your signal wires in your conversion harness arnt shielded as it really seems to bother them but in saying that, the rf could also be in the stock loom wiring as mentioned earlier, we ran 1 sheilded wire the entire length which helped, also the new aem pickup wouldnt be a bad thing either, making sure that isnt a source of the problem seeing your still using magnetic pick-ups.
If so i believe this, and the fact your signal wires in your conversion harness arnt shielded as it really seems to bother them but in saying that, the rf could also be in the stock loom wiring as mentioned earlier, we ran 1 sheilded wire the entire length which helped, also the new aem pickup wouldnt be a bad thing either, making sure that isnt a source of the problem seeing your still using magnetic pick-ups.
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I'm not very familiar with Motec, but if it helps, I've put a scope on the lines coming out of the distributor and here is a rough idea of what to expect:

This is based off memory, I took a sketch of everything on a stock Integra taking note as to what edges happened before/after and I can dig it up if you think it would help.
This is based off memory, I took a sketch of everything on a stock Integra taking note as to what edges happened before/after and I can dig it up if you think it would help.
With motec, if the sync signal (single pulse on the 'cam') falls too close to a ref signal (24 tooth in the dist, equal to 12 teeth per rev on the crank) then it can jump timing if it picks up after the wrong tooth. When looking at the signals on the scope, you ideally want the 'sync' to fall in between 2 'ref' signals. This will come up in your logs as 'sync pos'. 50 is ideal here. If you start to get into the teens or past 80 at any point, you need to look into changing things. What motec does is put the distributor on a scope and slot the screw holes in the bearing assembly and rotate the center until the ref and sync line up as they should. They also sometimes put pullup resistors in the harness.
If you don't want to mess with it, our cam trigger kit will solve all your issues. Aftermarket computers can be real finnicky with the stock distributor.
If you don't want to mess with it, our cam trigger kit will solve all your issues. Aftermarket computers can be real finnicky with the stock distributor.
i see, i do not know how to do all of this and still be able to swap in stokc ECU, im probably not being able too.
wiring the cam gear into the harness work rather than into engine harness?
thanks to all who reply
wiring the cam gear into the harness work rather than into engine harness?
thanks to all who reply
I'm not sure if this is feasible, but have you considered switching oil pumps and using the Crank Position sensor off an OBD II motor since it is a standard 12-1 wheel that OBD I computers don't use it at all.
This way you'd be able to retain your OBD I functionality. Just a thought.
This way you'd be able to retain your OBD I functionality. Just a thought.
Might want to try reversing the polarity on the CYP and see if that improves anything. That can sometimes get around the "tooth jumping" issue. If you try that, be sure to check your base timing once you've switched the wires.
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4door93civic
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Apr 11, 2007 10:16 PM
MrAngry
Acura Integra
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