So I just put in a set of dsm 450 injectors and filled up with e85. I started with a stock p30 basemap (my motor is an n/a b16a) advanced my timing by 2 degrees across the board and added 30% across my entire fuel map, then adjusted the fuel multiplier and offset table so that my car idles between 15.2-15.5. (it sits at 15.5 and holds there most of the time). I am doing all of this with the o2 turned off as someone had previously advised me on. I tuned my low cam map today and got it around 14.8-15.3 for cruising, 14.0-14.5 for low load, 13.5-14 for mid, and 13-13.4 for wot. I'm going to do the high cam map tomorrow and I'm just wondering if anyone has any tips, tricks, or advise to give me. I'm always open to learn things and if there is any specific thing I should be doing or something I may have missed, feel free to let me know. I feel that it's pulling a bit harder in the mid range from around 2-4k, and I think it could handle a few more degrees of advance...but i'm hesitant to do so until I know for sure i'm not missing any key steps. Thanks guys

 

Ok so one issue i've noticed (and never saw when I tuned on regular gas). My idle will hold steady at 15.5, but when my radiator fan kicks on my a/f changes to about 16.4. When the fan shuts off the a/f ratio goes back to 15.5. Any idea what is causing this? Another thing I need to note is when the radiator fan kicks on my car idles a bit lower, but sounds to be running the same and without issues. So Idk if I should be concerned with the gauge reading a bit leaner or if it's just doing it cause of a change in voltage. Any ideas guys? Thanks!

(The gauge is an Autometer ultralite street series)

 

Ok so after doing some extensive searching I found a page on Ectune that states how to properly edit the battery offset table. Apparently what I need to do is warm the car up, let it idle at the a/f ratio I want and then start turning on accessories and monitor my battery voltage. Basically I need to get my battery voltage to match each one of the boxes in the offset table and then see if my a/f ratio changes at each of the voltages. If so, then I need to make the number bigger which will add fuel, or lower to reduce fuel. I'll try this out tomorrow. I feel like i'm actually learning =]

 

Alright got it figured out. I used a volt meter and measured the batterys voltage as my a/f ratio changed and my battery offset was just a bit too low. Here is what it's set at stock for dsm 450's. (14v .53) (13v .67) (12v .82) (11v .95) I adjusted them to this (14v .56) (13v .74) (12v .95) (11v 1.05) I tweaked it 3 different times until I got the numbers right. For those who don't know what this means I'll explain. When the car has more electrical load (ac on, lights on ect) it will change the milliseconds that the injectors fire for. The battery offset table is a table where you can correct for this change in voltage. Basically my a/f ratio was going lean when my voltage dropped, so I raised the injector milliseconds on the lower voltages so that my a/f ratio would remain constant. This is only for the idle a/f ratio, although getting these tables as close to correct will help keep your a/f ratios correct threw out the rpm load range. Now once it's stops raining I will go drive and see if any of my previous fuel map settings now need to be change. If so, I will change them as needed and hopefully everything will fall into place. I should of done this offset correction first...but i'm still learning and figuring things out as I go

 

A wideband will display it the same though. For stoich mix with e85 it will show the 14.7:1 not the 9.7:1

 

IDK where my head is at today... sorry.

post deleted.

 

Its fine I just didn't want the OP thinking he was running extremely lean. Plus alot of people don't know a wideband will read just as if you were tuning with gasoline so it was a good thing to post up

 

Lol it's cool man, we have those days.
Yea before I started tuning I was trying to figure that out cause I read so many different things saying it would read both ways. When I started my car right after I put some e85 in I was still on my 93 pump gas tune and it was running super rich and the gauge read 10.0. The car was running, but it was obviously too rich so I knew from that point that the gauge would read normal just like with regular gas. Thanks for looking out though. Here is that video of right after I started the car with the old 93 gas tune.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F_Evs...&feature=g-upl
(gauge was reading full rich until it went into closed loop and the computer corrected for it)
I will get another video at some point with it on this tune i'm working on

 

Alright got it figured out. I used a volt meter and measured the battery voltage as my a/f ratio changed and my battery offset was just a bit too low. Here is what it's set at stock for dsm 450's. (14v .53) (13v .67) (12v .82) (11v .95) I adjusted them to this (14v .56) (13v .74) (12v .95) (11v 1.05) I tweaked it 3 different times until I got the numbers right. For those who don't know what this means I'll explain. When the car has more electrical load (ac on, lights on ect) it will change the milliseconds that the injectors fire for. The battery offset table is a table where you can correct for this change in voltage. Basically my a/f ratio was going lean when my voltage dropped, so I raised the injector milliseconds on the lower voltages so that my a/f ratio would remain constant. This is only for the idle a/f ratio, although getting these tables as close to correct will help keep your a/f ratios correct threw out the rpm load range. Now once it's stops raining I will go drive and see if any of my previous fuel map settings now need to be change. If so, I will change them as needed and hopefully everything will fall into place. I should of done this offset correction first...but i'm still learning and figuring things out as I go

Just finished messing with the tune on my car. Overall I've got about 40-50% more fuel running through it, added 2º timing advance on the low cam, 4º advance on the high cam. I'm running a 15.2-15.5 afr at idle, 14.7-15.2 cruising afr, 13.7-14 low to mid throttle afr, and a 12.8-13.3 wot afr. On the high cam I let it go a bit rich above 7k just to be on the safe side. I will probably change that in the future, but for now I wanna make sure everything is good. The car is pulling better in the mid range and on the high end, and my exhaust smells like kettle corn popcorn =] lol I love e85

 

seems like u got the hang of it..i wouldnt keep tryna throw timing at it like that...u need to start reading the plugs after you done a WOT pull so u can read the timing marks on the strap..looks like u have the battery offsets pretty much dialed in

 

You lost me...on the strap?

 

Google "reading spark plugs", you'll catch on.

 

Ok so I found this page on google http://www.angelfire.com/fl4/pontiac...Readplugs.html and as I was reading it, all seems clear and makes sense. Until I got to the Jetting thing. Particularly this paragraph
"The air/fuel mixture ratio shows up on the base ring. This is the last thread ring, it has the strap welded to it. You want a full turn of light soot color on the base ring!!! If you want to tune for maximum power, then you want 3/4 to 7/8ths of a full turn of light soot color to show up on the base ring. This is on ragged-edge of being too lean, but will make the most HP in most engines. To be safe, leave it at a full turn of light soot color. If the base ring has a full turn of color, but there are "spots" of heavy build-up of "dry soot" on top of color, then jetting is too rich.

****If the base ring has a full turn of color with some spots of heavy dry soot, then jetting is too rich, REGARDLESS, if the porcelain is "BONE-WHITE", jetting is still TOO RICH.****"

What does it mean by a full turn, or 3/4 a turn?