I'm nearing the end of my first rebuild (B16A) and finding the proper ECU and tune is the last hurdle. I have a few options and naturally I want to drop the least amount of money on my set up with the most favourable outcome.

I am currently in possession of a P06 with what I believe to be VTEC added. I have looked at many other forum posts with pics to see if the mods look similar. Some do some don't.

My reference is:
http://www.xenocron.com/install/1720.htm
among many other forum posts.

Here are some pics highlighting the slots (IC14, Q26, C60, R67, RM11, D11, J10) on my 1720 board plus IC15/16 removed. All except for RM11 look to be non-stock solders.





Can't read from image but RM11 is circled.


Any info is appreciated, especially those with links to references.

Thanks in advance.

If needed I can post other pics on request.

 

It is a socketed and chipped ecu...and the chip does say b16a2 on it. But imo, I would either try and source a virgin p30 ecu if the motor is stock. If not a chip with a basemap for your motor will work. I wouldn't blindly use a chip thats already in a ecu that I know nothing about.

 

Thanks for the quick reply.
That's how the ECU exists from the previous owner untouched by me. That said that chip was apparently 'running the engine' according to previous owner of the engine with exact same setup (B16A GenII block, P30 Pistons, 00-01 ITR Cams, DC Sport Headers, Skunk 2 Clone Intake Mani, Edelbrock TB) I don't plan on using that chip since it says B16A2. This setup is far enough from an A2 that I would NOT use that chip.

Mainly I just want to know if the VTEC conversion was done correctly so I don't have to buy another ECU. If not I will definitely go the route you suggested, I've looked into it and can get my hands on an ECU/Tune for what I need.

Besides it's just a sticker lol maybe I'll put an NSX sticker on to go fast?

 

 

Try it out maybe it will activate vtec, but why the hell someone would put a capicator in c60 is beyond me.

 

You are supposed to put a 1 uF capacitor in the C60 plot. It is part of the VTEC conversion. The "C" in C60 stands for capacitor.

Now, I agree that the use of the larger aluminum cap is a bit much when all you really need is a smaller ceramic cap.

 

EDIT: I just checked the capacitor. Can't see it from the picture but it says 100v 1uf on the side of it, is the aluminum just overkill versus a ceramic?

That c60 slot is what worried me. The size stood out to me immediately.

The previous owner had this in with the very same engine I am rebuilding, same internals. It apparently activated VTEC. The owner treats his cars very well; I don't doubt the guy, I just want to know the quality of the conversion done.

Capacitors can be replaced no problem. This is my first ECU but I have done cell phone boards in the past.

Should I be replacing that capacitor with a smaller one?

Thanks guys

 

The factory cap is a 1uF 35v electrolytic tantalum cap not ceramic sorry. The tantalum is used for it's high volumetric efficiency and higher operating temperature capacity.

Personally I would replace it with a properly sized one. You really don't need a 100v 1uF cap. That is a bit much, it only requires a 1uF 35v. They are approx. ¢20-¢50 at most electronics shops/online retailer.

 

I realise that, I ment to say an aluminum cap when it should be a tantalum cap.

OP you can use the tantalum cap in c61. It's only needed for auto ecus