Hey All,

Long story short.

Stock p75 (2000 LS) got wet by previous owner. He didnt want to replace it, so I bought car at a decent price running a P05 computer (runs like crap).

I have my old P28 w/ s200, but don't have any of the cables, so my question:

**Can I remove the Hondata chip and simply place a basemap chip from HA Motorsport, so the car can run like factory?

I would put the basemap on the s200 myself but I dont have all the s200 hardware to make it happen...and tuners around my area have given up on s200 lol.


Thoughts?
Thanks

 

The S200 is completely obsolete anyway, even Crome has more features and stability than the S200. Yes, a stock P75 basemap chip can replace the S200 unit and will run your car perfectly.

 

Thanks!

I received the chip today and the car has no codes but is running just as sh**ty as it did with the P05. I know its not the chip so its on to troubleshooting.

 

check engine lights?

 

Thats the thing...absolutely no check engine light. Whereas, before the basemap chip, it did.

Kind of makes it hard to troubleshoot, but its only a matter of time.

Its idling very odd. Extremely low at first (car will cut off if left alone), then when it warms up, its unusually high for a stock motor (over 1000k! (over 9000k joke sry)). But no codes.

ANNNND...its dumping a LOT of fuel in the engine. Like if I sit close to the back bumper, my eyes literally burn (and the smell of course). Thoughts? (this may be better suited for the Tech Section tho).

 

make sure you have a proper 5v going to the map sensor. as well as proper voltage for atmospheric pressure with key on ignition from the signal wire. you can connect the map sensor to a vacuum pump (with gauge) and determine if the map sensor is working properly as well.

 

Funny you mentioned the map sensor. When I unplugged it, the car started and ran slightly (and I mean slightly) better.

I don't have the tools at my house unfortunately, to run the tests, but I'm hoping it is the map.

Thanks for the info! I got a place to start tomorrow.

 

Problem found

 

Can you elaborate a bit?

 

It's a basemap. It is meant to make the car run without it blowing up. Thats all it's for. It's not going to run perfect on a basemap.

 

^^^ Even if the motor is 100% stock?

Its not an LS swap ...its a bone stock Integra LS. From intake to the exhaust. Seems like a basemap would do the trick.

Not sure why it would need to be "tuned". I've been wrong before though.

Also, I changed the MAP sensor and same thing. Still dumping a a lot of fuel and idling choppy.

Any additional thoughts 98vtec, or anyone for that matter?
Just weird because the car is not throwing ANY codes.

 

have you checked mechanical timing?

 

Not yet. I thought maybe it was out of time, but (and it may sound ignorant) I didnt think I would smell so much fuel if it was just the timing that was off. Then again, Ive only experienced bad ignition timing where the car could not even stay on unless corrected.

Not entirely sure how to check the mechanical timing though, but Ill look it up.

Thanks,

 

simply place the engine at TDC (on the crank) and see if the cam gear marks line up.

 

If you want it to run like stock, use a stock ECU. A basemap is usually just a starting point, that is sometimes pretty close to a stock map. Either way, just get a stock ecu if you want it to run like stock. Or get it tuned.

 

from a tuner point of view, that basemap would have to be very well off to make it run like this. not that I would advise someone to run on a basemap, but typically the basemaps you purchase from shops like xenocron, phearable and HAmotorsports will run the engine pretty well. especially if it is stock.

 

Awesome. Thanks

 

I would get a stock ECU, however, being OBD2b it is more work tracking down one and getting the immobilizer that matches. Ive seen a few services that could remove the immobilizer from the ECU, but the cost of just getting the basemap outweighed the cost of that (and getting a stock ECU).

Yes and the car is 100% stock. Well according to the previous owner...but Im starting to wonder about his credibility.

And just for the record, the car was running exactly the same prior to the HA chip. The only difference after the chip is the car is NOT throwing any codes (check engine light).

 

Are all 4 plugs firing?

 

Anyway to do this without taking the valve cover off to see marks after setting to TDC?

And can I set to TDC without physically rotating the crank?

Also, to F22:
Yep all plugs firing as they should.

Did a tune up and the spark plugs were shot. So after changing them and the wires, the car runs a bit better. Still gives a little trouble on start up though but it levels out much better when warm.

A local "mechanic" took a look at it with me and found that the car's characteristics did not change when the TPS was unplugged (should've bogged). Does this mean that the TPS is not working as it should, and should be replaced?

 

You will need to remove the valve cover. Removing the spark plugs makes it easier to rotate.

There is a white mark on your crank pulley which will line up with an "arrow" on the lower timing cover. With those lined up, the engine is at TDC. Look at the cam gears. The arrows on the gears should be facing up and the marking on the gears should face each other.

Removing the tps won't effect idle.

 

^^^ Not going to lie... Sure wished you lived closer to Central FL lol.

 

this is very simple and something you need to know how to do.

do exactly what I said, take a picture of the crank pulley lined up, then take a picture of the cam gears.

when you rotate the engine, make sure you turn it counter clockwise as that is its natural rotation. Pull all the plugs to make it easier to spin and stick a long extension or combination of a couple for good length down the #1 plug hole (don't just drop it in. guide it in until you feel it hit the piston then let go). Spin the engine using crank bolt. when the extension stops moving up, you are at or very close to TDC.

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/engine1.htm

read that and watch the videos to become more familiar with the basic inner workings of a 4 stroke engine

 

Oh sorry, Don't want to give the wrong impression. I dont mind doing the work, just hate the "troubleshooting" part of trying to work the bugs out. Its time consuming and I only have a few hours a week to dedicate to finding these bugs.

My comments to your post was to know if there was an easier way to find TDC without taking the VC off. Me just being lazy I guess.

Your tips and knowledge are very appreciated.

 

As much as troubleshooting may suck, it can teach you a lot.

Regardless, you have to take the valve cover off to be able to see the cam gears.

The valve cover comes off in less than a few minutes. Disconnect the grounds from the cover, remove the spark plug cover, plug wires and plugs then remove the 10mm cap nuts. Take a flat head and lightly pry up on it and it will pop right off.

From there all you need to do is take a socket and wrench and spin the crank to get it to TDC and follow directions.

A really really helpful tool if you are going to be working on your car is the factory service manual or a Helms manual. The information I am posting is in these manuals and provides step by step instructions.