Alright So I Built the following B16A, I have it dialed pretty well with 91 Octane. I tuned off the Knock sensor and my wideband. One hell of a difference from where I started from.

B16A
-CTR Pistons
-CTR Cams
-.020 Shaved and decked
-2G DSM 450's (with the better spray pattern)
-And some other basic bolt ons... So according to C-speed I am running something in the 12.1's for compression

Anyway, I am rolling over to E85, so far all I have done to the current map is advance the Ignition throughout the entire map 3*, I auto tuned the fuel (both maps on crome pro)

Should I keep advancing untill I no longer see a drop in AFR? I know I can't use the Knock sensor since (From what I have read) I will be far past MBT by the time I see knock and I would more than likely have a rod through the wall before hand.

Does anyone have any experience with E85? Perhaps a basemap I can take a gander at?

I have spent countless hours reading about E85, flame speed and all that stuff but I can't find any good solid answers, more or less "I Think" seems to come into play a lot.

Either way, Here are my maps, I am tuning E85 through my LC-1, I am still running the Fuel multiplier so that's why you see my target AFR set to 13~12 (crome pro)

Any Advice or help would be awesome.

Oh, and the reason I don't take it to a dyno is I just lost my job and I know this can be done on the street, I just need a few pointers/opinions

E85 Basemap.
91 Octane Tuned

 

That could happen with pump gas too and that didn't stop you.......

Advancing until a shitty knock sensor says the engine is knocking is not tuning, its being ignorant. Knock sensors should only be used as a safety measure. If you won't do it on the dyno, learn to read plugs and you should be able to get pretty close.

 

Also, stock knock sensors are designed to "listen" to a stock engine. You are well past stock so that makes the knock sensor completely useless. AutoTune in Crome is garbage by the way. Read up on how it works before wasting more time and fuel using it. And on that note, the amount of time and fuel you have spent and will spend trying to finish this, you could have paid for 1 hour of dyno time and been done. You would have the answer to how much that engine can stand ignition wise and get really close on your max hp if not find it and then quickly interpret the rest. Good luck whatever you decide.

 

I have been obsessively checking the plugs, everything looks good.

That knock sensor saved my *** multiple times. (started out on an ITR basemap) Auto tune has worked fine for me, I have read the info about the "auto tuning" and truth be told it seems like a lot of peoples' issues can be solved by tweaking some of the RTP and tuner values in crome. My favorite is the "5-15% Fuel Adjustment" and people wonder why it goes sooo lean. "Apply smart fill" is off so it doesn't interpolate with the other cells.

Thanks for the help, looking for a Dyno today...

 

how does the 2d map look after the Auto Tune is done? That is the question. you must be viewing the knock sensor on like a spectrograph to make any kind of use out of it. Knock count shouldnt really help you at all. Reading the plugs is the real way to know you are on target. 30 minutes to map the fuel on the street, finish up an hour later at the dyno and then drive home to test driveability.