FPR modification
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 9,715
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From: Boat on a Hill, CA
Question regarding the porting of an FPR per the Endyn method.
I've done this before with a high volume pump with good results. Right now though, I'm running a stock 00 Civic LX pump with a Blox FPR. I've got the pressure set at nominal (43.5psi) with the engine off, cycling the key to keep the pressure up. When I start the engine, the pressure jumps to about 62 with the vac reference disconnected and drops to about 57 with it connected. Does the same thing with an totally stock regulator on there.
Wondering If I should go ahead and port the outlet on this FPR. Any insight?
I've done this before with a high volume pump with good results. Right now though, I'm running a stock 00 Civic LX pump with a Blox FPR. I've got the pressure set at nominal (43.5psi) with the engine off, cycling the key to keep the pressure up. When I start the engine, the pressure jumps to about 62 with the vac reference disconnected and drops to about 57 with it connected. Does the same thing with an totally stock regulator on there.
Wondering If I should go ahead and port the outlet on this FPR. Any insight?
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 9,715
Likes: 920
From: Boat on a Hill, CA
That's the way I've always done it up until this weekned.
The Hondata site says otherwise, and when I did it their way I found this discrepancy. The thing that bothers me is that I'm reading ~60psi with a stock regulator as well. At first I thought maybe I had a bad gauge, so I replaced a brand new B&M with a brand new Marshall. Numbers came out the same. Dug out my old shop gauge... I try to avoid using it for quick checks because it has about six feet of line to fill up. Anyway, numbers came out the same.
Tried the Hondata method, boom. I start getting good numbers.
I know that with a high volume pump its not uncommon to be pushing more fuel into the rail at idle than the regulator can bypass. But I've never seen this behavior on a stock pump.
Once I know where the pressure is actually at, it really doesn't matter what the gauge reads as long as its consistent. It becomes relative and increase and decrease and is calculated in %. I just need to know where its at now, if I don't have my injectors baselined correctly, every adjustment I make to fuel trim is just **** in the wind.
The Hondata site says otherwise, and when I did it their way I found this discrepancy. The thing that bothers me is that I'm reading ~60psi with a stock regulator as well. At first I thought maybe I had a bad gauge, so I replaced a brand new B&M with a brand new Marshall. Numbers came out the same. Dug out my old shop gauge... I try to avoid using it for quick checks because it has about six feet of line to fill up. Anyway, numbers came out the same.
Tried the Hondata method, boom. I start getting good numbers.
I know that with a high volume pump its not uncommon to be pushing more fuel into the rail at idle than the regulator can bypass. But I've never seen this behavior on a stock pump.
Once I know where the pressure is actually at, it really doesn't matter what the gauge reads as long as its consistent. It becomes relative and increase and decrease and is calculated in %. I just need to know where its at now, if I don't have my injectors baselined correctly, every adjustment I make to fuel trim is just **** in the wind.
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