spoolinlude

So I'm running a K-tuned 90mm tb - I already have the Ford Throttle Position sensor setup/working great.

I'm adding a Ford IAC motor to the car to control the idle, since now I can get the idle nice and low, but the car likes to shut-off on when I take my foot off, so I want to add the IAC to better control idle/off-throttle driveability/cold startup etc.

Does anyone know what I need to change in my Calibration file to allow the Ford IAC to function in AEM Series 1 software? I didn't see a Ford IAC in the sensor wizard. Do I even need one or is it all the same? Can I make the IAC work like a 'fast' idle function until a certain engine temp then drop down to my "target idle"?

This isn't exactly my area of expertise so I apologize for sounding naive.

This system is older now, but it still works great for me. I didn't find much via searching.

Thanks in advance!

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Sounds like you need to tune your idle settings and ignition vs idle graph
How low are you trying to idle? Whats your timing in your idle columns?

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

90mm throttle body?

Have you worked on the accel trims?

The way it sounds is to keep the motor running you need to keep your foot on the throttle or is this when coasting?

spoolinlude

I haven't really attempted to tweak anything - as long as I've been around, I've always relied on others for tuning/ECU related issues - I've done everything on this car, other than that. Just afraid of ruining my motor by messing something silly up.

I'm going to sound dumb here - but I am not even familiar with accel trims or decel if that's a thing too.

So yes - to keep the motor running I have to keep my foot on the throttle when coasting/coming to a stop. Was hoping to use a IAC to fix this....

I can look up that info you asked about tonight and post it. I'd like to idle around 1k, that's where its at now when I'm at normal temp just sitting in the driveway. I'm trying to get the car past inspection, which is less than 1200rpm. It has Pro1's in it, ID1000's - so it could probably idle even lower, but when its warm and sitting if I try to close the throttle any more via the screw it starts loping and wants to shut off.

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Yeah you need to mess with a couple of idle and accel trims

So as of now you dont have an iacv? Or you have the stock one?

Ill post some screen shots when i get home and try and walk you through this.

You may just need to add more ign control to the idle vs ign channel.

spoolinlude

Awesome man - thanks for the help!

So are you saying, I may not need an IACV? Right now I don't have one - I run a BMC sheet metal intake manifold with basically everything deleted (no cold start valve, EGR).... I attached a picture of the setup for ref. It was tuned without one, but I also had a leaky accufab throttle body, and the car idled REALLY high and I had some other issues (head lift) that cut that tuning session short. So drivability wasn't ever fully assessed. I also didn't have one before on my older setup (H23/Venom manifold) and it idled normal and I never shut off, so perhaps my old tune had compensation built into it. Two different tuners as well (Jeff Evans then vs Jason Hunt latest)........ so I have no real idea what all was changed, or if everything was started over when I switch to the vtec motor.

I'm not sure what version of the firmware the ECU is on - I assume I can check that when I'm hooked up? It was last tuned about a year ago... but I don't know if the tuner upgraded me, or it already was, or what. Unless that update was released after that. In which case, I have not changed anything at all haha.

spoolinlude

I should also add that cold-start sucks.... I don't know if there's a way to set some sort of advance until the engine reaches temp as well? I feel like the car used to do that - years ago.... old setup, no cold-start system then either.

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Yeah we should be able to get this thing to idle with out one

Ill post up some screen shots in a bit.

Itll look different since you might be on a different firmware

spoolinlude

Sounds good man I appreciate it - I'll try to get hooked up to the car tonight and see what I have/see if I can/need to update.... might not happen tonight, for sure tomorrow though.

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

The idle tab pic i posted is where your stalling problem is most likey at
Then youll need to mess with the accel tables if your over rich or lean at part throttle

spoolinlude

Thanks a TON for taking the time to do this - I should have time tonight to mess around, I didn't get a chance to connect to the ECU, but I did notice the version of AEMTuner on my laptop was the current release on their website. I will check the firmware version tonight along with pulling up those tables.

I definitely will save before I change anything!

spoolinlude

So with the impending hurricane I haven't had a chance to get on the laptop/car because I had to dig up a storm drain that's been clogged - so that the car doesn't end up under water.

This weekend for sure!

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

For sure

First lets try with your current version software and not try to use aem tuner.

It should work but to be on the safe side we can just use the software you have now

spoolinlude

So my current firmware version is V1.19 and the software is 3.23R9. There was a 1.21 release but apparently that only affected LS1 motors? So 1.19 is the most up to date series 1 firmware? I'm not sure how to confirm that but that's what it seems.

It looks a bit different from what you posted vs my screen. I know you can move stuff around etc so maybe that's why. I was able to locate the decel and accel tables. I'm just not sure what I should be looking to do next?

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Yeah v1.19 is the latest for the v1 box

Go into the idle tab and post a screen shot of it

DVDr

iTrader: (2)

it will look like this, this one is the stock aem map. i found it required some adjustments to start in the canadian cold. Dont have a current map to show my adjustments. i will dig through and post after.

DVDr

iTrader: (2)

there are a few more options that dont pop up with the idel short cut :

spoolinlude

Sorry guys been in a two day training class that's killing me.

Haven't had a chance to hook back up..... hopefully tomorrow!

Thank you for all the support!

spoolinlude

Well..... now I have a new problem.

I had the car running fine, was going to take screen shots. The car has been running/driving just fine other than the idle for quite a while. I don't drive it much, but it always starts right up etc.

Yesterday, I was sitting in the driveway warming it up, and it stalled. I started it back up, revved it and then it died. I now get no fuel pump signal. I checked all the wiring, swapped all the relays - I have relays for each fuel pump, the 044 on the frame and the walbro in the tank. I don't get the prime signal from the ECU.

I have no idea why or what happened, but I'm worried something in the ECU died somehow. I swapped main relays and no change, but I don't know if the main relay I put in was good.

Anyone have any ideas on what I might of done? Like I said, the car has been wired/setup this way for quite a while never had a problem. I get power to the relays/pumps but no signal for them to fire. Hence my worry its ECU related.

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Look In your outputs menu and find the output pin associated with the fuel pumps.

Then trace the wire to your main relay

I dont remember if you can switch that pin on and off with the parameters it has

Ill check when i get to my laptop

spoolinlude

I don't know what else it could be other than the Main Relay or a blown ECU somehow at this point.

I ordered a new main relay. Stay tuned.

DVDr

iTrader: (2)

I went through the thread again, didnt see the AEM EMS part number you are using.

Look up what LS driver it it using to drive the fuel pump relay.

start from the most basic trouble shooting, as mentioned above.

1) ecu output , then relay, then relay to pump .

spoolinlude

Thanks for the reply - I hope to have some time to look at it tonight or this weekend...

I'm a series 1 EMS - Part Number 30-1001 according to the PinOut its location A7 - Low Side Driver #11 - I'll start by checking A7 for 12V after the key is on....

Stay tuned.

spoolinlude

So I checked A7 for 12v with the key on.... Nothing.

I'm assuming the main relay is bad. Is the correct "order of operations" the following?
1 - Key on
2- Main relay switch
3 - 12v signal sent to A7
4- Fuel pumps prime/run

I ordered a main relay, I still have no idea why it would just go bad though.

How would I check the ECU to see if the output is bad?