Piston Ring Gap Questions/feedback
lol this engine assembled yet?
im not 100% convinced that you will bleed off too much compression with those ring gaps. remember you have to spec it out for the most power you plan on making not just the average power. if you do that then when you crank it up your caps will be too tight. i have great compression with my motor and my gaps are .022/.026 @84.5mm
im not 100% convinced that you will bleed off too much compression with those ring gaps. remember you have to spec it out for the most power you plan on making not just the average power. if you do that then when you crank it up your caps will be too tight. i have great compression with my motor and my gaps are .022/.026 @84.5mm
Lol no not assembled yet
This is my first build and I have a lot of money into it and I want to make sure everything will be ok before I start assembling it. Just sucks my cars been sitting since November

This is my first build and I have a lot of money into it and I want to make sure everything will be ok before I start assembling it. Just sucks my cars been sitting since November
put it together and run it, everyone else on honda tech seems to be running with 5% or more blow by and seem to be ok with it
Yea but I'm not sure if I am, plus I don't want a lot of smoke on startup. Like I said it has to be right the first time, I'm only 19 and if something gets messed up my car will just be sitting forever again cuz I can't afford any more parts
dude i drove a 4 speed toyota tercel when I was that age. dont take this the wrong way but doing all this work to your only car with not much extra cash just isnt the best move. **** happens, it just does. .020 top ring is not enough for it to go blowing oil like crazy when you start it up. put the thing together but really re evaluate your goals. keeping the power lower will in all likelihood prolong its life and reliability...
dude i drove a 4 speed toyota tercel when I was that age. dont take this the wrong way but doing all this work to your only car with not much extra cash just isnt the best move. **** happens, it just does. .020 top ring is not enough for it to go blowing oil like crazy when you start it up. put the thing together but really re evaluate your goals. keeping the power lower will in all likelihood prolong its life and reliability...
That isn't what they are. The top is tighter then that. I just dont want a huge gap between the 2 rings when the suggested is .004" between the 2 rings
Yea I know teust me I've had Hondas since I was 14 and this isn't my only car. I have an 01 civic sedan as a DD I can't drive my CTR anywhere that it won't be in sight
That isn't what they are. The top is tighter then that. I just dont want a huge gap between the 2 rings when the suggested is .004" between the 2 rings
That isn't what they are. The top is tighter then that. I just dont want a huge gap between the 2 rings when the suggested is .004" between the 2 rings
Alright just finished gaping my rings. I went with
Top ring .017"
Second ring .024"
I went with this because with these measurements I had to gap the least amount of rings. Since most of them were at those measurements. So I hope it goes well
Top ring .017"
Second ring .024"
I went with this because with these measurements I had to gap the least amount of rings. Since most of them were at those measurements. So I hope it goes well
Yes for the top ring. Why? Do you think that is to tight? I could still go looser to .018-.019" if that would be better. It's just like I said before though I don't want them to be to loose
Ive researched this just as much as you have. At this point I personally wouldn't go any tighter than a .006 multiplier for 4-500hp.
My last engine made 450whp, 84mm bore. I used .020" gap (.006 multiplier) and didnt observe any crazy amounts of blowby or low compression test results.
Spawne and I talked about this offline. His thoughts are to keep it tight if its a street car bc it wont see extended periods of load to heat the rings up and make them expand. But as soon as you go the track (and of course you will), it becomes a race car and will see just as much load & heat. So it makes sense than you build it for the most extreme condition the engine will see, not the everyday. Idealy we want as minimal ring gap as possible but at the end of the day it doesnt seem to matter THAT much and the cost of it being too tight is your motor.
My last engine made 450whp, 84mm bore. I used .020" gap (.006 multiplier) and didnt observe any crazy amounts of blowby or low compression test results.
Spawne and I talked about this offline. His thoughts are to keep it tight if its a street car bc it wont see extended periods of load to heat the rings up and make them expand. But as soon as you go the track (and of course you will), it becomes a race car and will see just as much load & heat. So it makes sense than you build it for the most extreme condition the engine will see, not the everyday. Idealy we want as minimal ring gap as possible but at the end of the day it doesnt seem to matter THAT much and the cost of it being too tight is your motor.
Ive researched this just as much as you have. At this point I personally wouldn't go any tighter than a .006 multiplier for 4-500hp.
My last engine made 450whp, 84mm bore. I used .020" gap (.006 multiplier) and didnt observe any crazy amounts of blowby or low compression test results.
Spawne and I talked about this offline. His thoughts are to keep it tight if its a street car bc it wont see extended periods of load to heat the rings up and make them expand. But as soon as you go the track (and of course you will), it becomes a race car and will see just as much load & heat. So it makes sense than you build it for the most extreme condition the engine will see, not the everyday. Idealy we want as minimal ring gap as possible but at the end of the day it doesnt seem to matter THAT much and the cost of it being too tight is your motor.
My last engine made 450whp, 84mm bore. I used .020" gap (.006 multiplier) and didnt observe any crazy amounts of blowby or low compression test results.
Spawne and I talked about this offline. His thoughts are to keep it tight if its a street car bc it wont see extended periods of load to heat the rings up and make them expand. But as soon as you go the track (and of course you will), it becomes a race car and will see just as much load & heat. So it makes sense than you build it for the most extreme condition the engine will see, not the everyday. Idealy we want as minimal ring gap as possible but at the end of the day it doesnt seem to matter THAT much and the cost of it being too tight is your motor.
tell me about it. the cost of my piston to wall being a bit too tight last year was my #3 piston which caught the black death at about 7800rpm on the dyno. ill be damned if that happens again, so this go around i went from .0035 to .0045



