Joeyzbg

Hi guys,

After my stock GSR blew a rod, i had the oppertunity to buy a freshly bult B16a2 engine with the following specs:

Bottom end
Stock sleeves (81mm bore), fresh hone. Walls had been meassured and are NOT out of round!
Eagle rods
JE pistons (9:1 CR)
ACL crank bearings (Race series oversize +0.25mm)
ACL rod bearings (Race series oversize +0.25mm)
ACL Thrust washers
ARP headstuds
New OEM B18 oil-pump
Gates timing belt + Waterpump
Sump with AN fitting
Sandwich plate
New oil filter

Head
3 angle valve job
Head milled
Ferrea stem-seals
Compcams springs
Compcams titanium retainers
B18C4 cams
Valvecover with AN fittings

I'm not sure on what oil i should run. I always used Castrol Edge 5W40 on my GSR, but people recommend a thicker oil with the ACL race series bearings.
Would love some advice!

Since i'm already writing this post. I have a few more questions.
- What kind of power should this engine be capable to produce? I was thinking about tuning for 380whp, and should be conservative on pump-fuel.
- What break-in method should i follow? I was thinking about 10w40 hlaf-synthetic oil for first startup. Let it warm all the way up and refresh the oil + filter.
After cooling off, start it again, let it get some heat and do some WOT pulls with engine braking afterwards.
After about 1000 miles, switch to synthetic oil again.

Thanks guys!!

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Depends upon the clearances of the engine. Either way, old cheap oil for check-in, good high Zinc-content oil afterwards.

Also, no need for AN fittings on valve cover for catch cans. Not if you don't want them, anyway

Joeyzbg

All the clearances are OEM Honda, except the ACL Race bearings which are a little looser ofc.
The AN fittings are going to be used since i ran a catchcan already with my old setup.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

My point is, the fittings aren't venting nearly as much crankcase pressure as you think. So much so, they aren't needed in your application

DaX

iTrader: (1)

I just build a D16, but for comparison my bearing clearances were about 0.0017 inch and I started out with 5W-30, but it was too thin. I'm using 10W-30 now, but I plan on changing to 15W-40 for the summer and 10W-30 for the winter. I'm in the south, so a hot climate.

For break-in I used the "motoman" hard break-in method using conventional 5W-30 oil. I cranked and let it idle for one full heat cycle, checking for leaks. Changed the oil and filter (conventional again), then did the hard break in and changed the oil and filter again at 500 miles, putting in full synthetic. I started out with Rotella Gas Truck Synthetic, but am now using Valvoline VR1 Synthetic.

Joeyzbg

Thanks for your reply!
I think i'm going to use Valvoline 10w40 oil for the first startup. Then i will refresh the oil and filter and put fresh Valvoline 10w40 with Torco Zinc Engine Protector in it.
After about 500 miles i will put Castrol Edge 5w40 synthetic oil in it, and see what my oil pressure looks like. I can always go with a heavier weight if needed.

Aradin

I usually use a similar method to the above but I wait until about 2k miles to switch to full synthetic. I like to be sure all the trash has worked it's way out and any break-in wear has occurred before switching to longer change intervals. I also recommend using a ZDDP additive for the first few oil changes, including the first start.

BoostHatchFreak

agreed zinc first start is more needed then down the road. as most wear happen on first start up.