So recently I had a rough break down in my civic and turns out I needed to refresh the cooling system and replace the head gasket. No problem, right? I've done racing dirt bikes, why not tackle this myself. Well, the composite gasket was VERY bonded to the deck and head, like BAD. So, for the past week, I have been scrubbing with plastic brushes and soapy water, dousing it with carb cleaner and goof off, and smothering it with gasket remover. The deck is clean after I used a razor blade to carefully remove as much as I could before I reached the metal, and then finished it off with plastic brushes and finally some very fine 2000 grit wet sandpaper and soapy water (I don't know how egregious this is to some, but it's an iron block and I was over it). The only issue is there's still spots that won't come off on the fire ring areas, which is where my problem originated to begin with. The aluminum head is another story. I removed as much gasket as I can with the same process (minus the sandpaper), but the rest is just not coming off. There's a very fine black layer stuck all over the mating surface, and there's no delicate process I have been able to find to remove it. I'm very tight on money and DON'T want to have to get it resurfaced. Are there any secret methods to cleaning this up, or no? Any chemicals that will dissolve the gasket? I also bought an MLS head gasket and I've heard they're less forgiving on imperfect surfaces, which I'm most likely dealing with by this point. It's a 32-year-old d15, so not trying to be perfect, I just need it to run and not burn coolant. It's my daily driver and I have college starting up soon. Is the MLS gasket fine to use without getting it machined? Should I just drop the money and get it machined, or is there a magic gasket trick?

Best regards

 

The MLS gasket will be fine. Surfacing the head by a local machine shop should cost you less than $100, so that shouldn't hurt the pocket-book too bad.

 

Ok thanks, didn't know I could get it done that cheap. I'll call around to some machine shops and see if that's possible in my area. Do I need to strip the head completely down to get it resurfaced or can I leave the valves and springs in? Also what should I do for the residue on the fire ring area of the deck? I feel like I have to be extra careful on those areas cause they're under the most stress, but that stuff is BAKED on. Slow and steady or what?

 

Use a Scotch pad. Yes, you can leave the head assembled for surfacing... just make sure it is CLEAN when you get it back.

 

Ok thanks a ton. Used a green scotch pad and it worked great! Lotta elbow grease, but did the trick. Also I found a machine shop that resurfaced the head for $50, and they were QUICK. Worth the money for sure

 

Always nice to dust off the head if you can, it's worth every penny. Just go easy on the block surface like you did. Make sure you work clean clean clean as the little bits will come off of the scotchbrite while you are scrubbing. Your block is not iron, btw. It is most definitely aluminum.