J30A4 Stroker
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From: Mississippi
J30A4 Stroker
J30A4 from a 2003 Accord. What is required for stroking this to a J33? J35 rods and crank?
I’ve been researching this for about 5-6 months. Thanks for any input.
I’ve been researching this for about 5-6 months. Thanks for any input.
Hysterically Calm
Joined: Jan 2013
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Re: J30A4 Stroker
I see. What I'm getting from this is, the expense to stroke the J30 surpasses buying a J35 short block?
Just paraphrasing to be sure I follow what you are laying down.
Just paraphrasing to be sure I follow what you are laying down.
Last edited by TomCat39; Oct 26, 2019 at 05:13 PM.
Re: J30A4 Stroker
Yeah I understand not everyone has multiple self service yards nearby them but I can go to one and get any 6 cylinder shortblock and not bring a core for around that. Versus the cost and time of buying the same parts to use in another block, disassembly, cleaning, consumables, reassembly, I'd just find a wrecked Odyssey and pull the longblock.
So in my case and others in larger cities, it would be faster, easier and cheaper to swap in a running J35.
It really depends on if you just want to swap in a larger displacement engine, or want the satisfaction of building a hybrid engine.
So in my case and others in larger cities, it would be faster, easier and cheaper to swap in a running J35.
It really depends on if you just want to swap in a larger displacement engine, or want the satisfaction of building a hybrid engine.
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From: Mississippi
Re: J30A4 Stroker
I got responses on Facebook to this, but my research has tapered off on building the J-series engines.
And yes, other advice and research did lead me to the conclusion that a J35 is just more practical than stroking a J30 or 32 and that stroking a J35 to a 36 (using J37 crank and rods) is better than stroking those others and arguably better than getting a 37 because the 35 still has normal cylinder liners whereas the J37 has the FRM liners like those H-series.
And yes, other advice and research did lead me to the conclusion that a J35 is just more practical than stroking a J30 or 32 and that stroking a J35 to a 36 (using J37 crank and rods) is better than stroking those others and arguably better than getting a 37 because the 35 still has normal cylinder liners whereas the J37 has the FRM liners like those H-series.
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Joined: Jan 2018
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From: Mississippi
Re: J30A4 Stroker
Custom Stroker Builds:
The J36: The "budget/stock sleeved boost friend J37" is what it really is. I personally have a J36 in my car. I would utilize a J32a2 or J35a3 block. You will roughly need five things. J37a1 crank, Rods, Bearings, P2R crank snout, (Type S/Odyssey-MDX/RL Pistons). The reason for not using the J37 pistons is because the J37 is a 90mm bore engine. The J32/35 has a 89mm bore. 90mm is the factory limit on the stock sleeves and not recommended for boost/spray. I have 0 idea what kind of power I am making with this setup but i apparently did break the all motor native J series record for the fastest 1/4 time with it.
source:
https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/fo...7e05T1zkXQTYcQ
The J36: The "budget/stock sleeved boost friend J37" is what it really is. I personally have a J36 in my car. I would utilize a J32a2 or J35a3 block. You will roughly need five things. J37a1 crank, Rods, Bearings, P2R crank snout, (Type S/Odyssey-MDX/RL Pistons). The reason for not using the J37 pistons is because the J37 is a 90mm bore engine. The J32/35 has a 89mm bore. 90mm is the factory limit on the stock sleeves and not recommended for boost/spray. I have 0 idea what kind of power I am making with this setup but i apparently did break the all motor native J series record for the fastest 1/4 time with it.
source:
https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/fo...7e05T1zkXQTYcQ
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