i just put my pistons and rods in and when i tightend the rod caps it seemed to be harder than it should to turn, its been bored .20 so i didnt know if there is some kind of process where everyting has to break in or if something is wrong.

 

Motor should spin over very easily by hand, especially with the head off. Check your bearing clearances.

 

ok its really hard to break free but once it starts spinng and i dont stop its not too bad , just when i stop and try to start again.

 

What are you rod bearing clearances? What is your piston to wall gap?

 

If you just had the motor bored 20 over and you aren't measuring anything your building a grenade, I sure hope the machinist atleast had your pistons and rings in hand to make sure the bores were sized to spec and honed with correct grit. Best Of Luck to you

 

Did you clearance your bearings? Or are you using your old ones?

 

i checked my clerances piston to wall si .0035 and my rods are .002 from what ive read thats really tight there new acl bearings . ive measured everything so far just hadnt had time to do the rod bearings yet , i got the main caps, piston to wall,ring gaps,endplay for thrust washer, and one more question does the way you put the rod caps on matter one way or the other wit the little indention.

 

What tools are you measuring with?

 

i used a micrometer on the pistons and plastigage on the rods

 

What are all 4 piston numbers? And Do you have a bore gauge for the cylinders? How much taper? How out of round? Also Plasti Gauge is garbage. Torque the rod bolts with bearings installed off of the crankshaft. Measure the ID and make sure your not egg shaping the bearings and tell me what the numbers are. Now mic your crank journals and give me those numbers. I sure hope you at least had the big ends of rods resized....

 

Yes, it matters very much. The indention (bearing tang) needs to face the exhaust side of the engine on your B16A... and the rod cap tang should be on the same side... meeting the rod tang. Also, rod caps cannot be interchanged between rods... this is why they have arbitrary numbers stamped on the rod and cap. Make sure you haven't mix/matched any from one rod to another. Make sure this is correct first before you go and do all of the measuring suggested above. The rings will make it a bit more difficult to spin that just the crank in the mains by itself, however, the sticking heavy to move the crank/rods initially is definitely a problem.

 

ok i will thanks for the help

 

i havent measured everything yet but when took the rod cap off the bearings had wear where the caps meet to gether nowhere else. it seems to be where the problems are coming from either te rod caps or just too tight bearings.

 

sounds like you simply assembled it wrong; mixed up rod caps and/or rod caps oriented wrong. those rod bearings are junk now, and hopefully it didnt destroy the crank. you may have damaged the rods/caps too.

 

i bought the rods from either here or ebay i think there cx racing there h beam and ive had them the same way that they arrived to me, as far as caps go ,i did however have the tang on the wrong side on one cyl but has been corrected since. what would i look for on the crank as far as damage just scratches etc.and im ordering new bearings either king or acl.

 

and the rod resize im guessing thats a machine shop and what do i tell them or how do they know hwhat size it needs to be i appreicate all the help

 

I would be willing to bet that the rods need to be resized as well. Every single set of those cheap rods that I've seen has come way too tight on the big end so that no matter what bearing you use, it will always be too tight. I have seen sets with as much as .006 too much material. And yes, machine shop only. Take the crank, rods, and new standard sized bearings to them. Tell them to check the rods and make it work. They should be able to pull up the stock specs for your engine and work with that.

 

thats perfect i hope it is all thats wrong thank you guys so much.

 

ok i finally got everything to measure the bore with and here are the numbers

cy1 cyl2 cyl3 cyl4 top
81.08 81.19 81.58 80.63 side to side
80.95 81.05 80.96 81.17 front to back
middle
81.44 81.94 81.39 81.65 side to side
81.31 81.30 81.63 81.83 front to back
bottom
81.20 81.43 81.43 81.31 side to side
81.40 81.41 81.47 81.45 front to back

i would appreciate some input on my next sterps either take to a machine shop or hone it myself or whatever.

 

any advice