Gates racing blue timing belt difficult to tension
06-23-2019, 07:22 AM
#1
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Gates racing blue timing belt difficult to tension
Whats up guys, ive made another post in my build thread so this is kindof a double post, but i need advice asap. I installed a blue gates racing belt due to my stock (new, OEM) breaking at 15k miles due to stiff valve springs (i think.) The belt didnt seem to tension very well using the oem method (5-6 rotations, loosen, 3 teeth, etc.) But i fired it up anyway. On intial start up it seemed to be flapping quite a bit (it was hitting the inside of the lower timing cover) so i shut it off and added a little tension which seemed to cure it. After the warmup oil change i took it for a drive around the parking lot. I made it 200 ft and the belt jumped and bent the valves. Im installing a new set of ferreas and dont want to risk the belt jumping again. Guys who run kevlar belts (greddy, toda, gates, pe) what is your method of tensioning?
06-24-2019, 06:34 AM
#2
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Re: Gates racing blue timing belt difficult to tension
I used the oem method on my b16a2 with gates racing belt, tensioned properly and within the limits specified in the FSM. Never had a problem, sold it and neither did the new owner until he totaled the car. I am not sure what engine this is for, but if its a b-series are you using the proper water pump/belt combo? I don't think its possible, but if the head & block have been decked enough that you could have some issues with tension since the belt would be too long, but I think you would other issues before that happened.
When you are tensioning the belt, are you sure you are spinning the engine the proper direction? If you spin it the wrong way, the belt will get very loose.
When you are tensioning the belt, are you sure you are spinning the engine the proper direction? If you spin it the wrong way, the belt will get very loose.
06-24-2019, 06:44 AM
#3
Re: Gates racing blue timing belt difficult to tension
Killed 2 belts in short order, I think something is wrong with your installation method. Crank turns CCW as you are looking at it from the timing belt side. Should be pulling on the long stretch of belt between exhaust cam and crank.
06-24-2019, 07:27 AM
#4
MM Gruppe B
Re: Gates racing blue timing belt difficult to tension
On 90's Hondas the engine rotates the same direction as the wheels do when going forward. Compared to other engines Hondas of this era rotate 'backwards'.
As noted the longest stretch of straight belt that does not have the WP or tensioners on it is the tensioned side. If all else fails, rotate the crank or camshaft cog away from the straight section of the belt. This will place normal tension and take slop out of the belt. DO NOT STRETCH THE BELT. Anymore tesnion than normal resistance between cam and crank will just damage the belt and kill it.
Automatic tensioners should take the remaining slack out of the WP side. If the tensioners do not either the spring that pulls on tdler puller, or the spring inside the 'grenade' is not putting enough tension on the belt.
If it is a pulley bracket, it is not being allowed to pivot freely at which point there is something interfering with its freedom movement.
If it is the grendade, then it may be sticking or jammed, especially if it is old/used.
If both are fully extending but the belt is still sloppy, you either have a mismatch of parts, a heavily decked block/head, or simply have the incorrect belt.
The blue belts are just reinforced, and may be slightly thicker, but otherwise are not any different from installation procedures as the normal belts.
As noted the longest stretch of straight belt that does not have the WP or tensioners on it is the tensioned side. If all else fails, rotate the crank or camshaft cog away from the straight section of the belt. This will place normal tension and take slop out of the belt. DO NOT STRETCH THE BELT. Anymore tesnion than normal resistance between cam and crank will just damage the belt and kill it.
Automatic tensioners should take the remaining slack out of the WP side. If the tensioners do not either the spring that pulls on tdler puller, or the spring inside the 'grenade' is not putting enough tension on the belt.
If it is a pulley bracket, it is not being allowed to pivot freely at which point there is something interfering with its freedom movement.
If it is the grendade, then it may be sticking or jammed, especially if it is old/used.
If both are fully extending but the belt is still sloppy, you either have a mismatch of parts, a heavily decked block/head, or simply have the incorrect belt.
The blue belts are just reinforced, and may be slightly thicker, but otherwise are not any different from installation procedures as the normal belts.