ccrunner16

Hi all! This is my first post. After lots of reading and researching on these forums it's finally time to plunge in! I've got a stock b18b1 engine with 138k miles. Im looking to get around 300hp out of it. When I contacted my local machining shop about resleeving my engine, he wanted to know if it would be best for me the just bore the engine, resleeve it, or do an interlocking sleeve system on it. As far as I can tell, my 1.8l should be bored out and sleeved to 84mm for a good amount of power and engine strength. What exactly is an interlocking sleeve system and is it something I should consider? Also, is 300hp too much to run on a bored out b18b1 engine? My guess is it is.

Thanks for the advice!

theYBLEGAL

That's pretty low mileage.

Timing belt, waterpump, well-sized turbo, and a good tune should be all you need.

Make sure your machine shop is used to working in the .0001" measurements. Most american shops deal with .001" measurements. I always feel like 'local' shops are no good for performance import builds.

IMO, a prerequisite would be helping you decide, or them knowing what you need to make your goal safely. A good shop will know this. My guy won't touch it unless you give him some details. He'd rather not risk a reputation of shoddy machine work.

You can always send your block to them, most import shops in Chicago send their blocks and heads to them for work. Welcome to Opel Engineering! | Opel

TomCat39

Someone like @Mach1n1st might be able to give you info about interlocking sleeving.

Need an experienced machinist to chime in if you are struggling to find information in your searches.

ccrunner16

Timing belt has been replaced, water pump not yet, and turbo... well that's the goal. I'm a little nervous to turbo the stock engine because I already seem to be leaking a little oil from inbetween the head and block. I'm planning on at least replacing all the gaskets and putting in forged internals, but why not just resleeve at that point?

theYBLEGAL

The question is what you plan to do with the car, and the environment it will be in.

I live by Chicago. It would not be wise for me to put forged internals and sleeves in my daily driven 250-300hp B16 (with .25 overbored stock sleeves). I don't care to baby it every time I start it up when it's cold out. I don't necessarily drive it every day in the deepest of snow, but 40deg mornings will be enough to hear piston slap on forged internals. General maintenance is always a must. Throw a new headgasket on there, only like $80 for OEM (recommended) and some ARP head studs while you're in there.

If you live in SoCal, you may be able to get away with forged internals daily.

I make around 300 with a GT28 and a B16 with fully stock head.

ccrunner16

Stock block too? Or are you saying you experience piston slap due to your forged internals? 300hp on a stock engine just seems like such a large jump from 140ish.

I'm from Madison, Wisconsin so winters get quite cold. I'd also assume a stock engine should only take around 5-8psi if it's daily driven.

All in all this is what I've gathered, correct me if I'm wrong.

• replace gaskets
• arp head studs
• quality turbo/turbo kit
• low psi
• quality tune
• NO need for sleeving
• NO need for forged internals
• Bore the engine???

theYBLEGAL

Firstly, don't be so set on boring the engine unless you have bad compression already. The stock pistons are at a good static compression level, and the rods can get you to 300whp safe enough. If you bore the motor, you have to get new pistons, and have the rotating assembly balanced. If you get new pistons, you may as well get forged rods, and have cast pistons machined for floating pin to accommodate the rods. Unless you are OK with babying this motor, you will not want forged pistons at the daily cold temps you will see. Sleeves are irrelevant then. You would only get sleeves if you are going forged pistons, and having forged sleeves doesn't mean you can run forged pistons in the cold as well, that doesn't make reliability. You could run a block guard, which is a ring that fills the area around the outside of the sleeves in the coolant passage. It can cause heat problems, I'm bringing it up only to tell you not to use it, unless you pretty much only drag race.

PSI is irrelevant. Whatever it takes to get you the HP. It's not PSI that breaks motors, it's HP. The only variable within PSI that you care about is the efficiency range of the turbo. Choose a turbo that will meet your maximum power goals near the turbo's peak efficiency range. You don't want a turbo so large, it takes a while to spool, nor a small turbo that runs too hard and puts out lots of hot air. The harder the turbo works, the hotter the air coming out, in general. Ball bearing is king of performance, don't spend money on boring the motor, spend more money on a great turbo, intercooler, wastegate, and bov.

Maintenance, yup, you got it. Gaskets, seals, the like.

Google. Your best friend. Also, you're so late to the party, just see what other people have done. Here's a good example of what you want, done the way I propose: https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced...15psi-1331305/

Google > "300whp stock LS" gives you tons good stuff

ccrunner16

Thank you for all the information and helpfulness. And so the build begins...