What will it actually take for a street car to run mid 10's? By street car i mean minimal weight reduction, still has a/c, ps. No rear interior, cage, light sparco seats, no airbags, and some other small stuff. I'm going to guess the car will weight 2700 w/driver.
No idea on the weight, it could be less, could be more. But my main goal is to get this car in the mid 10's when all is said and done, but if the weight completley destroys any hopes of 10's then i may just get a lighter car after this one is done.

I know, I know the lighter the better, gut it, strip it, whatever it takes to get it to nothing....I would do this but i see no sence doing this when i could just start from the ground up with more of a race only car, not a used to be street car but can only be raced now car.

Fully built 2.0, t4 turbo that has made 650whp, Engine internals are no problem, Manley rods (800+hp) wiesco pistons, stock crank, sleeved, arp headstuds, and once i get it back, full rlz headwork, jg intake, blah blah....anyway...

I tried one of those weight calculator things and it said 2700lbs, 600whp is like 9.6 1/4, But i know they suck and i should add some time to that. But even if i add one full second to that time, that would be right where i want to be.
2700lbs with this setup ^^^ can mid 10's be done? May be hard but can it be done?

 

Well I think first youre going to have to ditch the small B16 block and get a GSR with sleeves to handle the boost. But a 10 second front drive with that weight just does not seem to make a lot of sense. You would have so many hours on the dyno and your maintanance would be very very expensive. I would suggest you to get a rear wheel or awd car.

 

umm, ok.....Look at what i said....FULLY BUILT 2.0L...I should have been more specific and said B18b sleeved, now 2.0L, never said anything about a b16

And also read my signature....I have an awd car. And what does the weight of a car have anything to do with a dyno? It's all about tuning and weather it weights 2000lb, or 2700 it will get the same tune done.

The engine I have will take what i am planning to put to it, same setup has seen 30+psi from a fairly large turbo.

This is mainly comparing a heavier car like mine to a car that is a lot lighter with less hp runing 10's. I will need more hp and better parts to get to where the lighter car is. Just trying to figure out how far off i will be from what i want to run.

 

You have more than enough to hit tens.

But your not gonna have luck if your trying to spin your way there.

Get some traction bars
some stiff suspension out back
some 25inch slicks give or take.
maybe some sort of traction control.
Lower boost in first and second gear
Some polyuerathene bushings WILL help with your 60fts too.

PRACTICE PRACTICE PRACTICE. Just hope you dont blow up while practicing!

 

Drivetrain parts so far concist of.... Quaife lsd, gsr trans, gator racing axles, and some sort of traction bars, didn't buy them yet but i am going to. Also probably like a 24.5 slick.

So you think i can achive my goal of a mid 10 sec if i can get good traction?

 

ET = 1% driver skill + 1% power/weight ratio + 98% traction.


To answer your question, you should shoot for 140 through the traps to run a mid 10 in a fwd. 140 trap speed in a 2700lb car is going to take around 600whp.

now go figure out the other 98%.

 

DIRep972 hit it right on the nail

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DIRep972 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">To answer your question, you should shoot for 140 through the traps to run a mid 10 in a fwd. 140 trap speed in a 2700lb car is going to take around 600whp. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats what i was looking for. Now how did you figure the 140mph/2700lbs = close to 600whp? Not doubting you, I just need to learn this stuff. And thanks for the info, I will have to work on that other 98%

 

I basically got that # from a lil bit experience, a bit of hp/weight ratio calculating, and a little bit of guessing.

Most honda's going low 140's are doing it carrying a power/weight ratio of right around 4.5lb's/HP.. Trapspeed is also dictated by the torque curve, the gearing, and the traction as well, but the basic power/weight ratio estimate will get you close.

Reason those HP/Weight 1/4 mile calculator's don't work for our cars is because they expect you to hook like a rwd car, which could definitly run a 9.6 @ 140.

 

bump, i need to know more as well.

 

Thanks again. So if i did use one of those 1/4 mile calculators would it be safe to say 1 full sec slower then what it tells me?

ha ha, I got my answer for my original question, i quit asking new ones