well our shop has a mustang AWD dyno.

seems like our drag car wont go over a certain power range even when we give it 5psi more.

we are wondering if the load that this dyno puts out it to great for a fwd car even with slicks.

what are u SFWD cars dynoing on & have u had simular prob with this dyno.
wondering if we put the car on a dyno jet will we see a BIG diff. i know it will be higher but thinking it will be alot since thiers no load fighting the tires. what u think?

 

Check how the straps are used. They need to angle down to hold the car down on the roller. Dynojet uses the single roller which sits the car up higher and allows better angle of the strap. Still if your losing traction at 5 psi something is wrong.

 

we put done 780+ on our dynojet.. 235 60 15 mt et streets and good strapping

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxmatt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Check how the straps are used. They need to angle down to hold the car down on the roller. Dynojet uses the single roller which sits the car up higher and allows better angle of the strap. Still if your losing traction at 5 psi something is wrong.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not losing traction at 5 psi. Not making anymore power with 5 more psi , wondering if it is because the tires are spinning.

Where do most of you guys strap your cars down at? to the body? We always strap to the control arms on our car, and have never had a problem with wheel spin(700+ on 225/50 BFGs). If you are strapping to the body, you are losing alot of the tension of the straps in the suspension.

 

you should be able to plot rpm vs dyno speed in back to back runs to check for wheel spin.

 

we were able to get 836whp from joes car on our dyno, that was on slicks with me and another fat person on each door sill. It was still spinning, but we got the idea haha.

On another note, i really think tires can make all the difference. We had a civic on the dyno last week that was spinning on some falken tires at around 420whp.

BTW, its a dynojet 248 with 6 anchors in the ground in front of the car, and 4 behind. Strap method has a lot to do with it as well, before our dyno was in ground, and we didn't have the option to decide where/how many anchors we wanted, we could only get Mid 700s out of it.

 

I guess its all in the strapping. I dyno'd my crx at 530whp on a no name set of 195/75r14 tires on steelies.

 

yeah, gota strap it good..

my buddys car just did 580hp with some old dookie nitto tires b/c i dont like dynoing w/slicks and thats all we had.. no spinning at all.

 

i have a strap even going straight down from thje traction bars in front of the dyno 2 peepz in the door. ect..

at 8000rpm the car only showed 116mph in 4th gear that how much tire spin i am getting. cant even use 3rd gear anymore

 

We've done 890whp in an Integra w/ factory GSR 15" wheels and tires. I think it's how you strap the car down. We've never had people sit in the car or on the door sills or any of that and still made over 100 dyno passes at high boost levels w/ over 8 different hondas all ranging from 550whp to 890whp and we're going back on the dyno real soon. That's how we've dynoed all the high hp boosted fwd applications-stock wheels and good straps.

 

over 800hp here on my dynodynamics. The problem i have is slicks get sooo hot and sticky they want to climb on the rollers real bad.

 

dont use 3rd gear on anything making over 300hp, its just not enough load

i always put the car not quite all the way up on the roller, and have 2 straps going straight forward, and 2 crossing and one looped around each back wheel. the 2 going forward pull the tires against the side of the roller so having a downward force on the strap isnt that important. i have found that on a mustang dyno you ahve to have 4 straps on the back or the thing will try to climb up onto front roller giving much less traction than if the tire is firmly planted on both rollers. the mustang dyno i was using up in NY was always a pain, at 500hp we had to put 6 straps on this one car to keep the tires down on both rollers, it was climbing out.

i made a quickie paint drawing to demonstrate



the red line is the strap, as you can see the strap is pulling the tire against the roller, not just keeping it from moving back and forth.

i have a dynojet 224x if you care

 

thats exactly how i strap my car down.....except i use 4 straps going forward and 2 crossing. i also put d rings on the floor next to the door to strap around the cage, but havnt used them yet.


generally we can get to about 550-600 on junk tires before having to put a drag radial or something on it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbo-charged &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
generally we can get to about 550-600 on junk tires before having to put a drag radial or something on it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

the same thing i've found.

 

I had a hell of a time getting my car to hook the mustang dyno.. We had to lower the tires to 15 psi (225 drags) run a strap from the motor straight down to the ground and I could only make pulls in 3rd gear because it would spin really bad in 4th. That was at 575whp.

 

i have never used a mustang dyno. is it dual roller?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jared &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have never used a mustang dyno. is it dual roller?</TD></TR></TABLE>The one that I use is a single.

 

the mustangs ive seen are dual (older one)

I've never had any traction issues with the dynapack... I guess its all in how you "strap it on"

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .R T E r n i e &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the mustangs ive seen are dual (older one)

I've never had any traction issues with the dynapack... I guess its all in how you "strap it on" </TD></TR></TABLE>

lol, you wont spin, it will just break your trans hahaa

 

strapping is the key to keeping high hp honda's from spinning...

 

we had the MD-AWD 1750IMP dyno and it was a PITA with some cars, mine especially would spin on anything past 500hp

i had to soak the rollers and my tires with VHT from a spray bottle to ensure traction, and even then it was iffy.

i can say unless you actually have one of these dynos you dont know the woes we go thru in using them

 

yeah, i hate mustang dyno's for that reason

on the dynapack.. you have to let the TRANNY cool off between runs more so than the engine. and if you can use 3rd gear rather than 4th (not possible alot of times b/c it will excede max tq) i have broken just as many trannys on dynojet 248h's as i have dynapacks

 

Big drag radials ftw.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah, i hate mustang dyno's for that reason

on the dynapack.. you have to let the TRANNY cool off between runs more so than the engine. and if you can use 3rd gear rather than 4th (not possible alot of times b/c it will excede max tq) i have broken just as many trannys on dynojet 248h's as i have dynapacks</TD></TR></TABLE>


So you didn't let my tranny COOL before you beat the **** out of it? And we broke 4th gear lol

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boostfed.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


So you didn't let my tranny COOL before you beat the **** out of it? And we broke 4th gear lol </TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah, thats honestly what im thinking... we were doing the runs pretty quickly.

but yeah, the 224x is alot easier to hold traction than the 248.. lighter drum is easier to accelerate.