I was wondering if anyone could give me some tips on how to get my car to hook up better. Right now my setup is this:

2300lbs with driver and fuel
custom traction bar
205/60-13 M&H Cheater Slick
Ebay coil sleeves with integra struts
370whp on a Mustang Dyno
if other information is need, please ask!

I would really like to be able to hit 10's. I also would like to stay on a DOT approved tire as they are required where race. I've heard of people hanging weights off the front of their traction bar and things like that. We have a shop so fabrication is not an issue. I'm in college right now so the budget is tight but anything you guys recommend would be great information! Thanks!
-Micah

 

crank the *** end of the car in the air to transfer weight to the front end will help

 

get some slicks... even on lowboost i killed a set of bfg's in less than 200miles... no burnouts or launches.. jus spinning thru gears.. with suspension and traction bars the car still spins in 5th... but at the track i dont have any problem with the slicks.. thats y i dont waste my time runnin any1 on radials or cheaters... hope this helped

 

Get a real suspension and cornel scale the car and get some slicks 24x9 and u will be good

 

That's a good idea, I'll give that a try for sure.

I really want to stay on wrinkle wall DOT's. These tires are quite a bit different than bfg's as well. I don't have a problem with traction at all in third as I have an Eboost-2, but first and second are on the gate and just spin no matter how I pedal the car. The reason for not getting slicks is this; I race on small airports with the organization called the Flashlight Drags. One of there rules is "no slicks". I would also like to race my car in full street trim. Thank you for the reply though!

What would you recommend for "real suspension"?

 

he's just referring to the setup they sell specifically to help launch the car when drag racing.
if you go to a very heavy spring in the back like 800-1000 lbs/in and a dampener that can control it, you'll have less weight transfer, and it will help a bit.
What are your alignment specs?
longer gears will help also, what sort of budget do you have?
anyway to remove more weight and/or move it forward?

also, integras have shocks not struts

 

It wont happen on 370whp...... Slicks and its do able. It takes well over 500whp to go 10's on a DOT tire. I have been 10.7@145 on 235's DOT M&H's and 10.4@144-146 on 26" ET streets DOTs. Its not an easy task and the tires are just not big enough IMO.

If you cant afford real coil overs I suggest you do limiting straps. Do a search theres many threads about it.

 

what motor mounts do you have?

what lsd do you have?

 

shocks, not struts I'll have to remember that, thanks!
As far as a dampener goes, is there and specific brand you prefer?
I do not know my alignment specs. Again, is their anything you prefer? I will also do some searching on this.
Right now I am using a stock LS transmission. I believe it has the longest OEM gears, but correct me if I'm wrong.
I have a budget enough to afford shocks and springs for the rear if necessary but not much else. Unfortunately there's not much more weight I can remove as it is a street car (my only car). I could possible get some used racing seats and a fuel cell?

So I need some taller tires. That's good to know. Thanks! And I will do some research

They are solid polyurethane mounts. The lsd is an OBX.

Thanks for the help and replies everyone!

 

i think omni offers a rear only pair of shocks/springs intended for drag use, i've seen a few people have success with them. haven't used them myself or on friends cars or anything so i can't comment on quality or anything like that.

alignment is not a huge factor but getting the largest contact patch helps. For drag racing I would set the toe on both ends to 0 and as close to 0 for the camber as you can get. If your on stock suspension there is not much you can do about the camber though.

If your on a limited budget I would say go for wheels and just practice and have some fun with what you have. If you have skills a 3.07 first gear actually makes a huge difference on the track and on the street, for a reasonable price. Narrowing the gap between 1st and 2nd is VERY noticeable. You could also find a junked b16 trans for 2-3-4 and put that together with the 3.07 first, for a very effective setup. Could be done for cheap but it sort of depends on how much work your willing to do.

 

Also wondering, what dyno was the 500whp made on? The reason for asking is that we had a car come in (not the only car) with 430whp from a dynojet and make 330 on our Mustang.

Unusual71, thank you very much for your helpful responses. I plan on getting my car aligned again this spring so the toe can be corrected then. As for camber, I am running stock suspension. Unfortunately, I don't have enough for a pre-made camber kit. But looking at the kit on my dad's Plymouth GTX, all it seems to be is some tubing and heim joints. I might be able to make one. Anyway, I should be able to find a way to correct the camber as it's rather extreme right now.
I also don't have any problems taking the trans apart as that's relatively simple. What trans is the 3.07 1st from? If i mix and match the gears like this what final drive would you recommend? Thanks again!

 

**** a dyno... trap speed and weight = HP.

 

unfortunately honda was not kind enough to make more than one ratio for first, the 3.07 is aftermarket. you can find them on ht marketplace, ebay, internets, etc.