Supertech Valve Fail....
Weve been testing several vales .the design of the valve tip varry through mfg. bent them ,mushroomed the tip..broken valves ...etc. its all due to your application. clearance issues strech of the rod ,expansion..etc.. But heat dissipation plays a big factor..
I don't sell Supertech stuff but in their defense some of these issues guys are talking about are caused by other stuff going on. Instead of looking straight at the valve, try to figure out what could cause the damage to the valve.
The mushrooming or dimpling on the valve tip "could" be from the hardening process on the tips but most likely is it from the spring not controlling the valve or too much lash. Most stainless valves are all made in argentina and they have similar finishing processes. There are cheaper valves that go thru less processes and have case hardened tips and better valves that have a deeper progressive hardened tips. No matter how good the quality of the valve if you have a spring that is not controlling it and its bouncing around everywhere every time it closes.. its going to tear **** up. If you check your lash frequently you will notice this issue starting a lot sooner and you can replace the valves and springs before its an issue.
If a spring is really out of control you can fatigue a brand new set in a couple dyno pulls. Most of these $6 springs people are using need replaced every couple races. Good springs can last years. It just depends on the application. Guys pushing **** real hard need to pull springs and check them every couple races at least. In other forms of racing springs get checked at least every event and often mid-event. I know some guys here are pushing big power and big rpm and have never thought to check a spring. It will save you $$ in the long run and you'll make more power.
Just my $.02 opinion
The mushrooming or dimpling on the valve tip "could" be from the hardening process on the tips but most likely is it from the spring not controlling the valve or too much lash. Most stainless valves are all made in argentina and they have similar finishing processes. There are cheaper valves that go thru less processes and have case hardened tips and better valves that have a deeper progressive hardened tips. No matter how good the quality of the valve if you have a spring that is not controlling it and its bouncing around everywhere every time it closes.. its going to tear **** up. If you check your lash frequently you will notice this issue starting a lot sooner and you can replace the valves and springs before its an issue.
If a spring is really out of control you can fatigue a brand new set in a couple dyno pulls. Most of these $6 springs people are using need replaced every couple races. Good springs can last years. It just depends on the application. Guys pushing **** real hard need to pull springs and check them every couple races at least. In other forms of racing springs get checked at least every event and often mid-event. I know some guys here are pushing big power and big rpm and have never thought to check a spring. It will save you $$ in the long run and you'll make more power.
Just my $.02 opinion
I don't sell Supertech stuff but in their defense some of these issues guys are talking about are caused by other stuff going on. Instead of looking straight at the valve, try to figure out what could cause the damage to the valve.
The mushrooming or dimpling on the valve tip "could" be from the hardening process on the tips but most likely is it from the spring not controlling the valve or too much lash. Most stainless valves are all made in argentina and they have similar finishing processes. There are cheaper valves that go thru less processes and have case hardened tips and better valves that have a deeper progressive hardened tips. No matter how good the quality of the valve if you have a spring that is not controlling it and its bouncing around everywhere every time it closes.. its going to tear **** up. If you check your lash frequently you will notice this issue starting a lot sooner and you can replace the valves and springs before its an issue.
If a spring is really out of control you can fatigue a brand new set in a couple dyno pulls. Most of these $6 springs people are using need replaced every couple races. Good springs can last years. It just depends on the application. Guys pushing **** real hard need to pull springs and check them every couple races at least. In other forms of racing springs get checked at least every event and often mid-event. I know some guys here are pushing big power and big rpm and have never thought to check a spring. It will save you $$ in the long run and you'll make more power.
Just my $.02 opinion
The mushrooming or dimpling on the valve tip "could" be from the hardening process on the tips but most likely is it from the spring not controlling the valve or too much lash. Most stainless valves are all made in argentina and they have similar finishing processes. There are cheaper valves that go thru less processes and have case hardened tips and better valves that have a deeper progressive hardened tips. No matter how good the quality of the valve if you have a spring that is not controlling it and its bouncing around everywhere every time it closes.. its going to tear **** up. If you check your lash frequently you will notice this issue starting a lot sooner and you can replace the valves and springs before its an issue.
If a spring is really out of control you can fatigue a brand new set in a couple dyno pulls. Most of these $6 springs people are using need replaced every couple races. Good springs can last years. It just depends on the application. Guys pushing **** real hard need to pull springs and check them every couple races at least. In other forms of racing springs get checked at least every event and often mid-event. I know some guys here are pushing big power and big rpm and have never thought to check a spring. It will save you $$ in the long run and you'll make more power.
Just my $.02 opinion
i have run ferrea, skunk2 and stock valves and i have NEVER broken one.
lots of people i know run supertech valves and lots of them have broken.
who knows maybe everyone running and breaking supertech valves have other problems causing the failures AND maybe everyone running ferrea have their **** 100% correct not to be breaking them....
imo stay way from supertech, just my 02.
lots of people i know run supertech valves and lots of them have broken.
who knows maybe everyone running and breaking supertech valves have other problems causing the failures AND maybe everyone running ferrea have their **** 100% correct not to be breaking them....

imo stay way from supertech, just my 02.
i have run ferrea, skunk2 and stock valves and i have NEVER broken one.
lots of people i know run supertech valves and lots of them have broken.
who knows maybe everyone running and breaking supertech valves have other problems causing the failures AND maybe everyone running ferrea have their **** 100% correct not to be breaking them....
imo stay way from supertech, just my 02.
lots of people i know run supertech valves and lots of them have broken.
who knows maybe everyone running and breaking supertech valves have other problems causing the failures AND maybe everyone running ferrea have their **** 100% correct not to be breaking them....

imo stay way from supertech, just my 02.
looks like the the lower retainer got hot from friction and seized the valve in the guide and hanging the valve down in the bore and the piston finishing it off.
what does the top of retainer look like ?
check the rocker for retainer contact marks.
If the lash adjuster nut got loose ,the adjuster rolls up causing the rocker to contact edge of retainer .
now the rocker not the adjuster is pressing the retainer and what little of the adjuster pad is on valve tip is pressing the other way.
BOOM!
Not saying that is the case in your situation.
check the rocker for retainer contact marks.
If the lash adjuster nut got loose ,the adjuster rolls up causing the rocker to contact edge of retainer .
now the rocker not the adjuster is pressing the retainer and what little of the adjuster pad is on valve tip is pressing the other way.
BOOM!
Not saying that is the case in your situation.
mine was a combination of springs getting weak, from daily driving it for 3 summers. As well as possibly having too much valve lash..
Like he said below!
i guess I really didnt think that the springs were a wear and tear item that should be replaced after a period of time!
Like he said below!
i guess I really didnt think that the springs were a wear and tear item that should be replaced after a period of time!
I don't sell Supertech stuff but in their defense some of these issues guys are talking about are caused by other stuff going on. Instead of looking straight at the valve, try to figure out what could cause the damage to the valve.
The mushrooming or dimpling on the valve tip "could" be from the hardening process on the tips but most likely is it from the spring not controlling the valve or too much lash. Most stainless valves are all made in argentina and they have similar finishing processes. There are cheaper valves that go thru less processes and have case hardened tips and better valves that have a deeper progressive hardened tips. No matter how good the quality of the valve if you have a spring that is not controlling it and its bouncing around everywhere every time it closes.. its going to tear **** up. If you check your lash frequently you will notice this issue starting a lot sooner and you can replace the valves and springs before its an issue.
If a spring is really out of control you can fatigue a brand new set in a couple dyno pulls. Most of these $6 springs people are using need replaced every couple races. Good springs can last years. It just depends on the application. Guys pushing **** real hard need to pull springs and check them every couple races at least. In other forms of racing springs get checked at least every event and often mid-event. I know some guys here are pushing big power and big rpm and have never thought to check a spring. It will save you $$ in the long run and you'll make more power.
Just my $.02 opinion
The mushrooming or dimpling on the valve tip "could" be from the hardening process on the tips but most likely is it from the spring not controlling the valve or too much lash. Most stainless valves are all made in argentina and they have similar finishing processes. There are cheaper valves that go thru less processes and have case hardened tips and better valves that have a deeper progressive hardened tips. No matter how good the quality of the valve if you have a spring that is not controlling it and its bouncing around everywhere every time it closes.. its going to tear **** up. If you check your lash frequently you will notice this issue starting a lot sooner and you can replace the valves and springs before its an issue.
If a spring is really out of control you can fatigue a brand new set in a couple dyno pulls. Most of these $6 springs people are using need replaced every couple races. Good springs can last years. It just depends on the application. Guys pushing **** real hard need to pull springs and check them every couple races at least. In other forms of racing springs get checked at least every event and often mid-event. I know some guys here are pushing big power and big rpm and have never thought to check a spring. It will save you $$ in the long run and you'll make more power.
Just my $.02 opinion
Was this in the in or ex? What lash? No marks on retainers? Are the keepers "stuck" in the retainer? Were the other valves hard to get out???
Intake valve, lash was 0.006 iirc? there are 0 marks on the retainer.. i will take a close up pic of it tomorrow for you to see... I have not taken the head apart to check the other valves yet...
I dont bother postingwhen stuff breaks! I have 4 ferrea valves with similar issues but who knows it could be anything and this is called racing for a reason! **** breaks!


