Supertech Valve Fail....
I had one Breck the same way. Till this day we don't know why. The car was running prefect when put away for winter, we went too warm the car up and same thing happened. I now run ferrea
Interesting, yeah i have a feeling i will never really find out Why it broke... The car was running great, then all of a sudden boom....
Never had an issue with one breaking but did see a few mushroom at the top of the shaft, we disassembled a head they were being used on, and slide them out, a few of them were stuck inside the head and had to be pushed out.
Last edited by 90blackcrx; May 24, 2011 at 03:16 PM.
90% of the time it is a machine or installation error. your talking about a part that moves over 100,000 per minute with out proper spring rates, valve clearances, valve lash, retainer to seal clearance, camshafts, and everything between. its tuff to blame a valve for the mistake. there is some crazy things that happen at that rpm.
90% of the time it is a machine or installation error. your talking about a part that moves over 100,000 per minute with out proper spring rates, valve clearances, valve lash, retainer to seal clearance, camshafts, and everything between. its tuff to blame a valve for the mistake. there is some crazy things that happen at that rpm.
As for supertech, we run them on our race cars as well as our customers cars and have not had any problems.
Sorry to hear about your mishap.
yes, Martin and ***** are very on top of things call out there and tell them what happened, i am pretty confident you will be delighted with their response and action
Ive just never seen a valve break so smooth and clean like this one is.. I will see if i can take a close up picture of it tomorrow..
I'm running supertech flat faced valves, been running them for 3 seasons. Always felt like I was on barrowed time. I've been wanting to send off a head and have it done up with manley or ferrea.
Who do you guys recommend to send a head to?
Thanks for your time,
Dk
Who do you guys recommend to send a head to?
Thanks for your time,
Dk
i was to busy yesterday taking the turbo apart to check and see if it was gone, thankfully it is still ok!!! Ill take the rest of the valve out tonight....
i had some of my supertech valves mushroom, called supertech and they were awesome to deal with. Gave me an explanation as to why it might have happened, gave me an AWESOME deal on replacement parts and were very easy to talk to!
I love their service.
I love their service.
What were the reasons ?
I don't sell Supertech stuff but in their defense some of these issues guys are talking about are caused by other stuff going on. Instead of looking straight at the valve, try to figure out what could cause the damage to the valve.
The mushrooming or dimpling on the valve tip "could" be from the hardening process on the tips but most likely is it from the spring not controlling the valve or too much lash. Most stainless valves are all made in argentina and they have similar finishing processes. There are cheaper valves that go thru less processes and have case hardened tips and better valves that have a deeper progressive hardened tips. No matter how good the quality of the valve if you have a spring that is not controlling it and its bouncing around everywhere every time it closes.. its going to tear **** up. If you check your lash frequently you will notice this issue starting a lot sooner and you can replace the valves and springs before its an issue.
If a spring is really out of control you can fatigue a brand new set in a couple dyno pulls. Most of these $6 springs people are using need replaced every couple races. Good springs can last years. It just depends on the application. Guys pushing **** real hard need to pull springs and check them every couple races at least. In other forms of racing springs get checked at least every event and often mid-event. I know some guys here are pushing big power and big rpm and have never thought to check a spring. It will save you $$ in the long run and you'll make more power.
Just my $.02 opinion
If a spring is really out of control you can fatigue a brand new set in a couple dyno pulls. Most of these $6 springs people are using need replaced every couple races. Good springs can last years. It just depends on the application. Guys pushing **** real hard need to pull springs and check them every couple races at least. In other forms of racing springs get checked at least every event and often mid-event. I know some guys here are pushing big power and big rpm and have never thought to check a spring. It will save you $$ in the long run and you'll make more power.
Just my $.02 opinion
I called Supertech today.. Very helpful guys, i am sending them some pictures and will probably be sending them the broken valve and the valve spring in that cylinder for further inspection.
Pulled the turbo apart last night and thankfully it is ok! lol
Block on the other hand is worse than i thought, good chance it will need to be bored out to 84.5mm to clean it up
Thanks for the info Luke!
Pulled the turbo apart last night and thankfully it is ok! lol
Block on the other hand is worse than i thought, good chance it will need to be bored out to 84.5mm to clean it up

Thanks for the info Luke!
IN supertech springs' defense, Ive had the same set of them in my pile for 3 years. Checked them last freshen up (8 months ago), I had one at 77 pounds @ installed height, all the rest were 79-80 (80 being spec),checked per lift and they were all good too .
Not bad for a car beaten as hard and often as mine. Still I shy from their valves....
Not bad for a car beaten as hard and often as mine. Still I shy from their valves....
Hopefully they take care of you 
I will never run anything but Ferrea, they make good stuff... I was shocked when my friends recently had one half of a Ferrea lock fail, he only noticed it because he was switching cams. I am starting to wonder what caused it or if it was just a fluke.

There were probably a few things that contributed...out of control valve and keeper digging into the valve. When you take the rest of them apart, check to see if they "stick" or if the keeper releases easily with little pressure. It the stuff was in control and happy it should slip right apart with little effort.
Next time try the Ferrea valve locks (Part # K10034). They make a world of difference in my opinion.
Next time try the Ferrea valve locks (Part # K10034). They make a world of difference in my opinion.
He never saw much over 9500 and the head was fresh from a well know porter, had GSR cams in it from day one. Not really sure what caused it the valve tip was fine and the retainer was just slightly chipped (im assuming from the lock breaking) so he replaced it and went out and made 700whp a few days later.


