Which setup would you do?
I'm considering getting rid of my current race car(mustang) and building my CRX or an EG hatch.
Just wondering which motor setup is preferred/recommended for mid-10s. It would be a street\strip car, ~400whp on pump gas, and ~500-550 on 110-111 octane(the highest I can get from the local pumps, otherwise I have to buy jugs of VP).
Money isn't too much of an issue. I'll have around 8 grand to put into it starting off. That should get the main components together...Then it's just the little nickel and dime BS parts(I learned my lesson about how quickly that adds up when I put a full braided/AN-fitting fuel system in my mustang).
So it's either a complete gsr motor or an LS motor with a GSR head. Something along the lines of an SC61 turbo. I'd probably run stock sleeves and see how much power it'll take reliably. Another question is: GSR trans or LS trans? I see people recommend the LS trans for the higher power cars, as it keeps wheelspin down with the longer gears.
Just wondering which motor setup is preferred/recommended for mid-10s. It would be a street\strip car, ~400whp on pump gas, and ~500-550 on 110-111 octane(the highest I can get from the local pumps, otherwise I have to buy jugs of VP).
Money isn't too much of an issue. I'll have around 8 grand to put into it starting off. That should get the main components together...Then it's just the little nickel and dime BS parts(I learned my lesson about how quickly that adds up when I put a full braided/AN-fitting fuel system in my mustang).
So it's either a complete gsr motor or an LS motor with a GSR head. Something along the lines of an SC61 turbo. I'd probably run stock sleeves and see how much power it'll take reliably. Another question is: GSR trans or LS trans? I see people recommend the LS trans for the higher power cars, as it keeps wheelspin down with the longer gears.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fmfkid250 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">GSR motor it will help your R/S as much as you can and it will still make the power you are shooting for and 110 octane will support alot of power!</TD></TR></TABLE>
The Rod to stroke ratio of an LS 1.54:1 R/S VS GSR/ITR 1.58:1 R/S is very very close actually. Too small to cut hairs I would say
EditL:Fixed lol
Modified by Boostfed.com at 11:35 AM 6/27/2007
The Rod to stroke ratio of an LS 1.54:1 R/S VS GSR/ITR 1.58:1 R/S is very very close actually. Too small to cut hairs I would say
EditL:Fixed lol
Modified by Boostfed.com at 11:35 AM 6/27/2007
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boostfed.com »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The Rod to stroke ratio of an LS 1.58:1 R/S VS GSR/ITR 1.54:1 R/S is very very close actually. Too small to cut hairs I would say </TD></TR></TABLE>
would you rather rev a ls crank or Gsr crank to 10K?
Granted its a small difference but I know if i would do it again...
I would use a Gsr crank just for a little more reasurance...
The Rod to stroke ratio of an LS 1.58:1 R/S VS GSR/ITR 1.54:1 R/S is very very close actually. Too small to cut hairs I would say </TD></TR></TABLE>
would you rather rev a ls crank or Gsr crank to 10K?
Granted its a small difference but I know if i would do it again...
I would use a Gsr crank just for a little more reasurance...
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fmfkid250 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">tranny? ehh depends on your power output and tire size
ls if alot of highway driving</TD></TR></TABLE>
24.5" slick for the track and just an average 14" street tire for street driving(22.5-23" diameter?)
Not too much highway driving. More around town < 45-50mph driving.
ls if alot of highway driving</TD></TR></TABLE>
24.5" slick for the track and just an average 14" street tire for street driving(22.5-23" diameter?)
Not too much highway driving. More around town < 45-50mph driving.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fmfkid250 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
would you rather rev a ls crank or Gsr crank to 10K?
Granted its a small difference but I know if i would do it again...
I would use a Gsr crank just for a little more reasurance...</TD></TR></TABLE>
UH I would rather rev an LS crank to 10,500 which is what is in my motor
That Rod to Stroke ratio BS needs to go back to Endyn's forum. Again as I mentioned the R/S of a GSR and LS crank is soo close it isn't gonna make a difference in my opinion. Now if the R/S was 1.4:1 then that is getting a lot of side load on the cylinder walls or starting to. A B16A R/S is 1.74:1 and a B16B is even better 1.8X BUT a Bigger GSR or LS stroke will still make more power and can rev also.
would you rather rev a ls crank or Gsr crank to 10K?
Granted its a small difference but I know if i would do it again...
I would use a Gsr crank just for a little more reasurance...</TD></TR></TABLE>
UH I would rather rev an LS crank to 10,500 which is what is in my motor
That Rod to Stroke ratio BS needs to go back to Endyn's forum. Again as I mentioned the R/S of a GSR and LS crank is soo close it isn't gonna make a difference in my opinion. Now if the R/S was 1.4:1 then that is getting a lot of side load on the cylinder walls or starting to. A B16A R/S is 1.74:1 and a B16B is even better 1.8X BUT a Bigger GSR or LS stroke will still make more power and can rev also.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boostfed.com »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The Rod to stroke ratio of an LS 1.54:1 R/S VS GSR/ITR 1.58:1 R/S is very very close actually. Too small to cut hairs I would say </TD></TR></TABLE>fixed!
The Rod to stroke ratio of an LS 1.54:1 R/S VS GSR/ITR 1.58:1 R/S is very very close actually. Too small to cut hairs I would say </TD></TR></TABLE>fixed!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2fast4u831 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">fixed! </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah yeah yeah I fixed it in my post
Yeah yeah yeah I fixed it in my post
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boostfed.com »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
UH I would rather rev an LS crank to 10,500 which is what is in my motor
That Rod to Stroke ratio BS needs to go back to Endyn's forum. Again as I mentioned the R/S of a GSR and LS crank is soo close it isn't gonna make a difference in my opinion. Now if the R/S was 1.4:1 then that is getting a lot of side load on the cylinder walls or starting to. A B16A R/S is 1.74:1 and a B16B is even better 1.8X BUT a Bigger GSR or LS stroke will still make more power and can rev also.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
UH I would rather rev an LS crank to 10,500 which is what is in my motor
That Rod to Stroke ratio BS needs to go back to Endyn's forum. Again as I mentioned the R/S of a GSR and LS crank is soo close it isn't gonna make a difference in my opinion. Now if the R/S was 1.4:1 then that is getting a lot of side load on the cylinder walls or starting to. A B16A R/S is 1.74:1 and a B16B is even better 1.8X BUT a Bigger GSR or LS stroke will still make more power and can rev also.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fmfkid250 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Gsr would be the better tranny then...</TD></TR></TABLE>
LOL yeah. I made as much as 620whp on them in my last motor, we ran it last season and part of this season on about 550whp no probs. The red hatch that Mat Keller ran last year had Eagles in it and it was over 800whp, RLZ Engineering have made over 700whp on them also.
You just don't have that warm fuzzy feeling inside though with them with over 600whp, I would trust a Manley or Pauter more though.
LOL yeah. I made as much as 620whp on them in my last motor, we ran it last season and part of this season on about 550whp no probs. The red hatch that Mat Keller ran last year had Eagles in it and it was over 800whp, RLZ Engineering have made over 700whp on them also.
You just don't have that warm fuzzy feeling inside though with them with over 600whp, I would trust a Manley or Pauter more though.
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