i was just wondering if anyone can help out with some nitrous jettings for a fuel injected single fogger??? anywhere from 50-150...

i tried the search button on here and came out empty handed....anyone care to help...

are some of these jettings correct???

N2O/Fuel-Horespower

37/22 - 50HP
39/24 - 60HP
41/26 - 70HP
43/28 - 80HP
46/30 - 100HP
52/33 - 125HP
61/38 - 150HP

can anyone confirm this?
please correct me if wrong....

 

anyone??????

 

bump

any experts in nitrous????help!!

i need to know by this weekend???may be wanting to try something....

 

what kit is it? NOS, NX,....? Try contacting the manufacturer of the jets.

Gary

 

Ooo man this could be the thread ive been waiting for! so can anyone verify his jet/HP sizing???
i would imagine hes using a wet system, single nozzle that injects juice and gas at the same time creating a mixture. i have a N.O.S. kit im not sure how much it will very to NX or any other kits.
----Nitrous gurus where you at???

 

Talk to Spencer (BoredNStroked), he might be some help

 

Start with the manufacturers recomended jetting and go from there. Always reduce fuel jet first if it is running rich. If you dont have the recomended jetting give them a call....tell them your setup and most importantly, fuel pressure! Basing your jetting of a message board is a good way to put holes in your pistons!

 

i was looking and this is what i got from a friend...

http://www.azsupersport.com/nitrousjetcalc.asp



not so sure on how accurate it really is...but it seems to be pretty good.

hope this will help everyone out!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RI_TM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i was just wondering if anyone can help out with some nitrous jettings for a fuel injected single fogger??? anywhere from 50-150...

i tried the search button on here and came out empty handed....anyone care to help...

are some of these jettings correct???

N2O/Fuel-Horespower

37/22 - 50HP
39/24 - 60HP
41/26 - 70HP
43/28 - 80HP
46/30 - 100HP
52/33 - 125HP
61/38 - 150HP

can anyone confirm this?
please correct me if wrong....</TD></TR></TABLE>

Here is what ZEX recommends for a single nozzle wet system, 40 psi fuel pressure:

32/17 - 55HP
36/19 - 65HP
40/21 - 75HP
46/26 - 100HP
54/30 - 125HP

Later,

ZEX Man

 

Hey Zex man, are you runing NHRA or Nopi this year?
Hope to see yah out there...

 

I am running NOPI this year.......

ZEX Man

 

thanks....

is Zex the kit you're running???

if so, how much are you squeezing?

 

Hope To see yah there bud. We will be out later though

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RI_TM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks....

is Zex the kit you're running???

if so, how much are you squeezing?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I am running 125 on the ZEX direct port system and another 125 on the single nozzle ZEX dry kit. I use my FAST system to do the fuel enrichment for the second stage.

Later,

ZEX Man

 

40HP 34/18
50HP 37/22
60HP 39/24
70HP 41/26
80HP 43/28
100HP 46/30
125HP 52/33
150HP 61/38

These jets are correct if you are running an NOS Wet System with a 13700-B Nozzle. The nitrous is pretty constant and hardly ever changes, some nozzles that atomize the fuel better tend to use less nitrous to make more horsepower, that is because you are able to burn more of the fuel. I would suggest you start with these jets; the numbers ZEX Man gave you are for his system which uses a totally different Nozzle, Solenoids, etc. This could be a problem, especially if ZEX uses Solenoids that hit the Jet with more pressure i.e. less pressure drop from the inlet to outlet of the solenoid. For Example Edelbrock’s E1 Nozzle pre-atomizes the fuel before the nitrous comes in contact with it, when the nitrous does intercept the fuel the fuel is already atomize, the nitrous charge then further atomizes the fuel. What this means is that more of the fuel is available for combustion and so you waste less fuel…..when fuel is not properly atomize only the outer portion of the fuel droplet burns and you are left with partially un-burned fuel or CO. When the fuel is finely atomize then you are able to burn more of the fuel droplet and so are left with less unburned fuel/CO. What this means is that because you are able to burn more fuel, you don’t have to run such a high fuel jet and less oxygen is required to make the same amount of horse power, smaller nitrous and fuel jet. This is similar to a fuel injected engine vs. a carbureted engine. The EFI engine can make more horsepower while consuming less fuel.

Here are some examples of what I mean by nozzle atomizing characteristics from different manufacturers.

HP Edelbrock E1 NOS 13700-B ZEX Wet Nozzle
50 26N/18F 37N/22F 32N/17F
75 30N/20F 41N/26F 40N/21F

Hope this helps; feel free to e-mail me if you have any further questions

Regards,

N2ONES

 

Please remember that all jet settings are dependant on fuel and nitrous pressure. Be sure to jet rich and start leaning out until a desired A/F is reached. I would highly suggest a wideband O2 for safe tuning and not having to guess what jets are proper for the pressures you will be running.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ms1motorsports &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Please remember that all jet settings are dependant on fuel and nitrous pressure. Be sure to jet rich and start leaning out until a desired A/F is reached. I would highly suggest a wideband O2 for safe tuning and not having to guess what jets are proper for the pressures you will be running.</TD></TR></TABLE>

So, True...The NOS jetting chart is for 38-40PSI. I believe that is close to most Hondas run stock. In addition, Bottle Pressure is usually about 900-950PSI. Anything higher than that lowers the density of the nitrous and at 950psi nitrous tends to encounter a less severe pressure drop. Usually at 950 PSI the bottle, pressure after a run will drop to 850-900, depending on jetting. Compared this to pressures above 1000PSI where pressure drops as high as 200PSI can be encountered, this is because at about 1050 PSI the vapor pressure of nitrous is higher than the liquid pressure (all nitrous systems are tuned using liquid nitrous) and so as nitrous is consume it phase changes from gas to liquid severely dropping the pressure. Most bottle heaters will raise the pressure of the bottle up to 900-1000PSI. +/- 50 PSI is so minute a pressure differential that the A/F Ratio might only see a .3 drop. Ideally, you want to run the same A/F Ratio that you run with out Nitrous, in the neighborhood of 12:1. Timing is also one critical factor that many overlook. Nitrous increases burn rate and so to compensate for the higher rate of combustion one must retard the timing so that peak Cylinder pressure occurs around 10° after TDC (I have heard from many engine builders 5° and other favor 15°, this is another subject for debate). In simple terms, nitrous does not change the physical characteristics of an engine and so it maintains it’s natural power curve, what it does is provide the engine with an additional supply of oxygen so that it can burn more fuel. The goal is to maintain an acceptable A/F Ratio. Here are four simple rules to keep in mind when tuning a nitrous system

· Bottle Pressure – Bottle Pressure should be between 900-950PSI
· Fuel Pressure – Fuel Pressure should be set to 38 PSI Flowing
· Timing – Retard ignition timing 1 ½-2° for ever 50hp
· Spark Plugs – 1 heat range colder for every 100hp, non projected type sparkplugs with a gap of .025 to .035

Regards

N2ONES

 

well the 43/28 jets (80shot) with 850 bottle pressure (need a heater) and 55 psi rocked the house quite well on my b18c. since bottle pressure was low, does that mean it was less than a 80hp shot? felt great as can be reguardless, came on nice and smooth too!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ls1 FD3s &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well the 43/28 jets (80shot) with 850 bottle pressure (need a heater) and 55 psi rocked the house quite well on my b18c. since bottle pressure was low, does that mean it was less than a 80hp shot? felt great as can be reguardless, came on nice and smooth too! </TD></TR></TABLE>

It was probably on the rich side, did it feel like a hard hit or did it come in smoothly, like a turbo would. A bottle heater would probably help you a little and maybe shave some more time off.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ls1 FD3s &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">since bottle pressure was low, does that mean it was less than a 80hp shot? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes and No, you had enough nitrous to burn enough fuel to make 80HP, but the extra fuel probably cooled the flame down and so you probably only got 50-60hp out of the hit, all depends on the A/F ratio. One way to know how much hp the car was putting to the ground is to compare the trap speed on you time slips.

If you know what the car weights and your mph with and w/o nitrous from your time slips you can figure out how much hp you are putting to the ground.

Hp = (mph/234)³ x weight

 

thanks guys!

 

car weighs 2220 without me 2390 with me. pulled a 13.91 at 100 MPH with a awesome 2.19 60ft (street tires). On slicks im aiming for 13.5's on juice im would like a 12.99 at least.
That 13.91 was just US b18c,skunk2 mani, US ITR header, skunk2 catback w/ no cat, short ram intake, and a kenji ECU, untuned everything else 100% stock
Now i have CTR cams, cam gears E-2/I+2, DC 4-1 header w/ 2.5 collector, 255 pump,VAFC(for when i hit the dyno)B&M FPR set at 55 PSI at WOT... Open header on slicks now should yield 13.5s on motor for sure, just need to get the bottle pressure optimal and life should be great.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ls1 FD3s &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">car weighs 2220 without me 2390 with me. pulled a 13.91 at 100 MPH with a awesome 2.19 60ft (street tires). On slicks im aiming for 13.5's on juice im would like a 12.99 at least.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

........why is your fuel PSI at 55? was it 55 during the nitrous pass? If it was then you were defenetly real rich specially with 850PSI of bottle pressure.


Cool man, it looks like you are putting 186 hp to the ground; based on mph and weight. Do you have any et and mph numbers for n/a with your current modifications?

To go 12.99 or quicker you will need to put down 220-230Hp to the ground.

Hope this helps you

 

yeah i was at 55PSI when spraying on 850pSI. today the bottle was just a tad shy of 900PSI, which the highest ive had it so far.bottle heater is on the way! I sprayed 1st-4th and it pulled harder than it has ever before. Almost got a little frightened when wheeling down the country road i was on. Prolly due to street tires and smoking 1st-3rd like a madman. - torque steer The fuel pressure was still at 55PSI, and shortly after the run i pulled the #3 cyl plug and it was a medium brown. Perhaps with 950PSI and maybe 50 psi on the fuel should yield optimal results. When i refill this bottle, im going to get the car tuned, that i know will help out a lot. Car is feeling great, cant wait to get all the kinks worked out and have this baby fine tuned!! I think i can pull off 12s, this car seems to pull harder then any other b18c civic's ive had in the past on the juicy juice,,, and on motor for that matter.
PS, what fuel pressure do you recommend when spraying w/ my setup? With past setups, ive ran 55psi when spraying and had good luck with it, so i never changed.