MSD launch control, who's wired or using one?
I ordered the 6al, and the 8735 launch control module.
I'm curious where some of you have wired up the various circuits for burnout and launch control.
Clutch pedal, dash switch, etc. Never hurts to see what's working well before I install.
I appreciate your time.
I'm curious where some of you have wired up the various circuits for burnout and launch control.
Clutch pedal, dash switch, etc. Never hurts to see what's working well before I install.
I appreciate your time.
i just used to use the 2 step box and 6al with the ebrake.
12volts to the 2 step, actuated by the ground. (instead of 12v acting on it.)
was on while burnout and launcbut thats when all i had was the 2 step, and was leaving at 8,200 rpms he hee.
ebrake goes down, ground goes away, 2 step goes off.
12volts to the 2 step, actuated by the ground. (instead of 12v acting on it.)
was on while burnout and launcbut thats when all i had was the 2 step, and was leaving at 8,200 rpms he hee.
ebrake goes down, ground goes away, 2 step goes off.
Thanks guys.
I'm doing burnouts and staging with the E-brake, so I'd be concerned about that cross over and overlap.
I'm thinking the clutch would be cool for launch control, but then I'd have overlap where I'd be holding the clutch in, AND holding the e-brake.
I'm trying to figure out how to do it without adding complication. In other words, I'd rather have it happen automatically, than be pushing switches and having to remember. I'm of the opinion that the less busy you are, the more likely you are to be successful.
OR, maybe a single 3 position switch, center off. All the one direction is burnout control with the e-brake, all the way the other direction is Launch control with the E-brake. and center is off. Then the only time anything is happening is when the e-brake is activated. Also you wouldn't have to be holding any additional switches or buttons during the activity, but switch it in-between the 2 events, burnout and then launch. But you would have to remember to do it.
Not sure.
I'm doing burnouts and staging with the E-brake, so I'd be concerned about that cross over and overlap.
I'm thinking the clutch would be cool for launch control, but then I'd have overlap where I'd be holding the clutch in, AND holding the e-brake.
I'm trying to figure out how to do it without adding complication. In other words, I'd rather have it happen automatically, than be pushing switches and having to remember. I'm of the opinion that the less busy you are, the more likely you are to be successful.
OR, maybe a single 3 position switch, center off. All the one direction is burnout control with the e-brake, all the way the other direction is Launch control with the E-brake. and center is off. Then the only time anything is happening is when the e-brake is activated. Also you wouldn't have to be holding any additional switches or buttons during the activity, but switch it in-between the 2 events, burnout and then launch. But you would have to remember to do it.
Not sure.
I have an msd digital 6 wired up to the clutch switch. I used to have them wired up to switches so i could bypass them as i went down the track, or use one independent of the other. I was concerened that during shifting the rev control and retard would be activated for a very short period of time, possibly slowing the run down(even when full throttle shifting) I never really tested that out much though.This year i have it set up different, i installed a relay, that the ecu will ground, completing the circuit, at a given parameter.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by P-Lucas »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This year i have it set up different, i installed a relay, that the ecu will ground, completing the circuit, at a given parameter.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you don't mind my asking, what's the parameter?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you don't mind my asking, what's the parameter?
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I have a digital 6 and my 2step is wired to the bright lights switch. works good for me so far. just have to disconnect the bulbs if you don't want the brights coming on every time you use it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vectorsolid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If you don't mind my asking, what's the parameter?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The car is not running yet, but it will be something probably speed related, from the s300. This way it only will activate once, at launch, then by the time you go to grab the next gear the car will be out of the "parameter" and wont activate the launch or retard control. Fully automatic.
If you don't mind my asking, what's the parameter?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The car is not running yet, but it will be something probably speed related, from the s300. This way it only will activate once, at launch, then by the time you go to grab the next gear the car will be out of the "parameter" and wont activate the launch or retard control. Fully automatic.
Okay, here's how I ended up mounting it.
Forgive the zip ties, and miserable gauge mounting... I ran out of time and wanted to test the ignition. That will get cleaned up this week. I made a mount and put a momentary switch on the front side of the E-brake lever. That one switch does both the burnout and launch control. To switch between the 2 modes, I have a switch you can see just below the 3 step module.
Do a burnout holding the e-brake, pull up to the line... flip the switch to launch, pull the E-brake, rap it up and haul ***...repeat as necessary.
Used it tonight for about 5-10 burnounts and launches, and it worked perfectly.
Forgive the zip ties, and miserable gauge mounting... I ran out of time and wanted to test the ignition. That will get cleaned up this week. I made a mount and put a momentary switch on the front side of the E-brake lever. That one switch does both the burnout and launch control. To switch between the 2 modes, I have a switch you can see just below the 3 step module.
Do a burnout holding the e-brake, pull up to the line... flip the switch to launch, pull the E-brake, rap it up and haul ***...repeat as necessary.

Used it tonight for about 5-10 burnounts and launches, and it worked perfectly.
When using the stock e-brake for burnout is there a way to remove the mecanism that locks when the ebrake is up...just in case if doing the burnout and you don't let the e-brake all the way down to prevent dragging the rear brakes down the track?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cotorresgee »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When using the stock e-brake for burnout is there a way to remove the mecanism that locks when the ebrake is up...just in case if doing the burnout and you don't let the e-brake all the way down to prevent dragging the rear brakes down the track? </TD></TR></TABLE>
I machined all the teeth off but the last two. This way it still functions when I want it to, but I can just hit the button and it falls down easily releasing the ebrake. I have yet to miss it thus far when launching.
I machined all the teeth off but the last two. This way it still functions when I want it to, but I can just hit the button and it falls down easily releasing the ebrake. I have yet to miss it thus far when launching.
i have one and love it. i use a clutch switch and a momentary push button. push in clutch, hit button once, it latches a relay closed until the clutch switch is let go. wiring instructions here (page 3 figure 6): http://www.msdignition.com/pdf...0.pdf
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blown90hatcH »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I machined all the teeth off but the last two. This way it still functions when I want it to, but I can just hit the button and it falls down easily releasing the ebrake. I have yet to miss it thus far when launching.</TD></TR></TABLE>
"Machined" lol. Knowing you, you probably did actually remove it and put it in the mill to do it. The rest of us "grind" the teeth off.
I machined all the teeth off but the last two. This way it still functions when I want it to, but I can just hit the button and it falls down easily releasing the ebrake. I have yet to miss it thus far when launching.</TD></TR></TABLE>
"Machined" lol. Knowing you, you probably did actually remove it and put it in the mill to do it. The rest of us "grind" the teeth off.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
"Machined" lol. Knowing you, you probably did actually remove it and put it in the mill to do it. The rest of us "grind" the teeth off.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
yup, good ol die grinder get's err done! i guess an angle grinder would work too, but i didn't have one at the time.
"Machined" lol. Knowing you, you probably did actually remove it and put it in the mill to do it. The rest of us "grind" the teeth off.
</TD></TR></TABLE>yup, good ol die grinder get's err done! i guess an angle grinder would work too, but i didn't have one at the time.
i just drilled a "hole"
and put a fire extinguisher pin through the hole, holding the button down
and the ebrake still works like factory without the pin! wheel chocks FTL
Modified by vtekthis at 7:53 AM 6/11/2008
and put a fire extinguisher pin through the hole, holding the button down
and the ebrake still works like factory without the pin! wheel chocks FTL
Modified by vtekthis at 7:53 AM 6/11/2008
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtekthis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i just drilled a hold </TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
"Machined" lol. Knowing you, you probably did actually remove it and put it in the mill to do it. The rest of us "grind" the teeth off.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats the sad thing....I machined it off. Having the tools at work at the time to do it....seemed like a better fit...and I was bored at work that day.
"Machined" lol. Knowing you, you probably did actually remove it and put it in the mill to do it. The rest of us "grind" the teeth off.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Thats the sad thing....I machined it off. Having the tools at work at the time to do it....seemed like a better fit...and I was bored at work that day.
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