MSD 2 Step.. Need your input
I recently bought a msd 6al and msd 2 step... I plan on using the 2 step for launching at the track but i am not sure which way to hook it up. From what i've read i can hook it up to the clutch or a switch or e-brake? I am not exactly sure what are the options, i've read and got a little confused. What are the pros and cons of hooking it up one way and not the other? This is for a street/track car. I want something easy to use at the track so i can concentrate on the light and other stuff. Lemme know how you guys hooked it up and how does it work. Thanks
I normally just hook them up over the E-brake. It's really up to you in the end but it's simple and effective. When you're doing a burnout you'll be limited (rpm wise) till you drop the E-brake unless you've got a switch inline (which I would recommend). Then when it comes time to launch, at least with in the SFWD cars we use the E-brake as a "staging break" simply because you're working with a faster tree, etc. Launch, drop the E-brake, and you're off... Just my $0.02 tho.
I'd also recommend completely <U>cutting</U> the wire which runs to your gauge cluster if you chose this method (unless your <U>isolate</U> the circuit with a <U>diode</U>, between your tapped in wire and the gauge cluster). I've had problems with the MSD wire supplying a light ground which causes the E-brake light in the cluster to dimly glow as well as power from the this light sourcing back to the 2-step trigger. Incase you're wondering why a diode allows you not to have to cut anything (and have a fully functional E-brake light) is because it works as a one-way gate for current (you won't see ANY ground at the cluster, and the positive side of that circuit cannot be seen at the 2-step module).
Sorry to make this sound so complicated if it does, it's really very easy.
You mentioned this method so I'm sure you've seen my old diagram before but just incase, here it is...

Modified by Kataku2K3 at 7:00 AM 4/11/2005
I'd also recommend completely <U>cutting</U> the wire which runs to your gauge cluster if you chose this method (unless your <U>isolate</U> the circuit with a <U>diode</U>, between your tapped in wire and the gauge cluster). I've had problems with the MSD wire supplying a light ground which causes the E-brake light in the cluster to dimly glow as well as power from the this light sourcing back to the 2-step trigger. Incase you're wondering why a diode allows you not to have to cut anything (and have a fully functional E-brake light) is because it works as a one-way gate for current (you won't see ANY ground at the cluster, and the positive side of that circuit cannot be seen at the 2-step module).
Sorry to make this sound so complicated if it does, it's really very easy.
You mentioned this method so I'm sure you've seen my old diagram before but just incase, here it is...
Modified by Kataku2K3 at 7:00 AM 4/11/2005
do not hook it up to clutch switch--there is no riding clutch w/ hooked up that way-only instant engagement...i persoanlly hooked mine up to my horn button
That depends on where you clutch engages, where you have the switch set, etc. I've hooked it up over the clutch switch before (the normally open switch/circuit) and been able to slip the clutch with the 2-step still active. If you're refering to the normally closed "cruise" switch then yes, you are correct.
Does the msd 2-step module drop the cylinders randomly when used? Or is it the same 2 every time?
I believe the hondata 2-step is the same 2 cylinder everytime, and the MSD is random.
I have mine mounted to my clutch switch with a relay. I use the MSD digital 6.
I believe the hondata 2-step is the same 2 cylinder everytime, and the MSD is random.
I have mine mounted to my clutch switch with a relay. I use the MSD digital 6.
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