hello, here is a 'schematic' that i drew up in ms paint of how my battery kill switch is wired. please let me know if everything looks right to you guys...

my question here is would i be able to route my starter wire to the distribution block before the switch so that the electricity doesnt have to travel through the entire circuit to get to the starter or is the way i have it proper? thanks in advance.

BTW: i tested it and it completely kills the car but i just wanted to know about the starter wire. thanks

 

lol Microsoft Visio Owns You.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SPOOLINmatt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol Microsoft Visio Owns You. </TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah it was a first to draw one up but do you have any ideas? lol

 

lol i have visio, but i dont know if im bored enough to redo your diagram that is not much to improve on HAHAHA

 

LOL

 

Im bored at work and did it anyways, VERY LIMITED. The starter wire will work like that, its only turning when the button is pressed or the key is flipped but that doesnt matter if the power to the rest of the electronics is out.




Modified by SPOOLINmatt at 5:33 PM 1/25/2007

 

whers the flux capacitor go?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wHOAlly &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whers the flux capacitor go?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Everyone knows it goes between the alternator and the distribution block.

 

Okay i get that, but shouldnt there be some fuses to lower the amperage or volts?

 

also what distribution block do you guys recommend?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rip94delsol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Okay i get that, but shouldnt there be some fuses to lower the amperage or volts?</TD></TR></TABLE>

no because all those connections in an oem form are strait un fused connections. You might want a fuse on the cable going back to the battery incase of a shortage though. If you check the car audio industry, they make solid and fused distribution blocks, check out the stinger brand and stuff. Now that i think about it, im gonna move the switch in my diagram to the cable that comes from the battery to the first distribution block, it makes way more sense for it to be right there.

 

if you put it before the 1rst distribution block then the alternator will still power the motor! I'm guessing thats how your thinking about putting it...

 

its already wired and when i pull the switch the entire car dies. so i guess it works when the alternator is like that

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rip94delsol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you put it before the 1rst distribution block then the alternator will still power the motor! I'm guessing thats how your thinking about putting it...

</TD></TR></TABLE>

good lookin out. I guess people just gotta run a **** ton of wire, might help to put the first dizzy box in the rear to save on wire running.

 

well if you put it in the rear your going to have two long wires instead of 1!

! from the battery and the other from the alt. so it might be easier to just put the block in the front and run the wires to the back will be the easiest and cheaper way... Thats what i think though...

you definitly helped me out with this diagram and i thank you for it...

 

either way youd have 2 run 2 or 3 wires back to the back, because your getting about the wires for the switch for the cut off. The switch is in the rear. hehe

 

i figured only two! i going from the dist. to the switch then from switch to the 2nd dist block! either way its alot of heavy *** wiring!

 

mine is all routed with 8gauge wire hehe hopefully it doesnt matter...the main feed wires that go from the positive on the battery to the 1st block and to on end of the switch is 4gauge, while on the otherside of the switch its 4gauge to the second distribution block...from there all the rest are 8gauge like the factory

 

your starter needs a 4ish gauge wire, it pulls a lot of damn current.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SPOOLINmatt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">your starter needs a 4ish gauge wire, it pulls a lot of damn current. </TD></TR></TABLE>


our racecar has been working fine for over 2years with 8 guage going from a distribution block to the starter. we do run 4 guage power from the battery to the cut off switch, and then to a distribution block... alot of heavy *** wire.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dturbocivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">our racecar has been working fine for over 2years with 8 guage going from a distribution block to the starter. we do run 4 guage power from the battery to the cut off switch, and then to a distribution block... alot of heavy *** wire.</TD></TR></TABLE>

well i guess that proves that its alright to do so then.

 

i just figured it wouldnt be that bad using 8 guage for the starter wire, since the wire honda uses is very similar in size

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dturbocivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i just figured it wouldnt be that bad using 8 guage for the starter wire, since the wire honda uses is very similar in size</TD></TR></TABLE>

same reason why i used an 8 gauge

 

Does anyone have pics of the kill switch setup?

Is it required by NHRA to have kill switch with battery in the front or back?

 

u better figure this **** out before u hit the strip mang