How Much Boost???
My favorite plug is the ngk bkr9eix, it is the best plug for the dollar next to the brisk stuff. I run the denso ik31 in my car due to not having to turn each plug down in the lathe for my coils.
I run an .025 gap without issue. Unless it is super rich I will see it in the rpm trace and feel it while in the car. But it never "blows out"
I run an .025 gap without issue. Unless it is super rich I will see it in the rpm trace and feel it while in the car. But it never "blows out"
The engine I ran for the most part of the season I had just shy of 40 passes on before I tore it down and freshened it up. The engine I ran at the end of last season leading onto this season had just over 40 hits on it before the to let go.
The engine I had in the car for outlaw was junk, a bunch of thrown together laying around junk that just happened to stay together somehow.
The engine I ran at world cup was brand new and is destroyed. When the o-ring blew out and fuel pressure dropped it lifted the head so hard on that first pass it pulled the block into 2 pieces. We changed the gasket and made it so it could limp through the rounds at world cup. After further inspection we found the factory girdle to be cracked and 2 of the main caps to have split just outside of the bore for the stud/bolt. It seems as though the crank is tryin to push out the bottom of the engine. The last few engines I have had in my car when taken apart the main bolt threads aren't in the beat shape. It is something that I am addressing with our new engine program that I will run in 2011.
The engine I had in the car for outlaw was junk, a bunch of thrown together laying around junk that just happened to stay together somehow.
The engine I ran at world cup was brand new and is destroyed. When the o-ring blew out and fuel pressure dropped it lifted the head so hard on that first pass it pulled the block into 2 pieces. We changed the gasket and made it so it could limp through the rounds at world cup. After further inspection we found the factory girdle to be cracked and 2 of the main caps to have split just outside of the bore for the stud/bolt. It seems as though the crank is tryin to push out the bottom of the engine. The last few engines I have had in my car when taken apart the main bolt threads aren't in the beat shape. It is something that I am addressing with our new engine program that I will run in 2011.
I find it amazing through all the damage your bottom ends are sustaining you normally make it through the weekend. I would think a good 5 main girdle would help ease some of the stresses on other stuff down there and tie everything in together.
Do you think the main cap splitting was due to the girdle cracking or vice versa?
The engine I ran for the most part of the season I had just shy of 40 passes on before I tore it down and freshened it up. The engine I ran at the end of last season leading onto this season had just over 40 hits on it before the to let go.
The engine I had in the car for outlaw was junk, a bunch of thrown together laying around junk that just happened to stay together somehow.
The engine I ran at world cup was brand new and is destroyed. When the o-ring blew out and fuel pressure dropped it lifted the head so hard on that first pass it pulled the block into 2 pieces. We changed the gasket and made it so it could limp through the rounds at world cup. After further inspection we found the factory girdle to be cracked and 2 of the main caps to have split just outside of the bore for the stud/bolt. It seems as though the crank is tryin to push out the bottom of the engine. The last few engines I have had in my car when taken apart the main bolt threads aren't in the beat shape. It is something that I am addressing with our new engine program that I will run in 2011.
The engine I had in the car for outlaw was junk, a bunch of thrown together laying around junk that just happened to stay together somehow.
The engine I ran at world cup was brand new and is destroyed. When the o-ring blew out and fuel pressure dropped it lifted the head so hard on that first pass it pulled the block into 2 pieces. We changed the gasket and made it so it could limp through the rounds at world cup. After further inspection we found the factory girdle to be cracked and 2 of the main caps to have split just outside of the bore for the stud/bolt. It seems as though the crank is tryin to push out the bottom of the engine. The last few engines I have had in my car when taken apart the main bolt threads aren't in the beat shape. It is something that I am addressing with our new engine program that I will run in 2011.
from the sounds of it it seems like the only thing keeping your rotating assembly in is that pretty little bell housing! it has to be hell on input shaft bearing isnt it?
I run a set of strange shocks. The best shocks I have found out there that don't cost a million bucks and do exactly what I need them to do. We have found over time the correct valving and spring rates for the way I need the car to react.
Sorry, just got back to work.
I can honestly say i've never had an engine failure short of a set of cams breaking back in the day. I've had 3 motors in this car in the past 4 years or so. Changing them out to try new things. I had one that had a headgasket leak slightly that turned out to be a dowel that was a hair too long. The current engine is the only one that's made the power that it's making now though. I have an ERL 5 point girdle on this motor and GRP aluminum rods, with custom JE pistons. I've always used GE sleeves and headstuds as well.
I have run both Omni shocks and Skunk 2 shocks with a few different spring combos in the past and I just installed some Penske front shocks before the last race and that's what's staying on there.
I can honestly say i've never had an engine failure short of a set of cams breaking back in the day. I've had 3 motors in this car in the past 4 years or so. Changing them out to try new things. I had one that had a headgasket leak slightly that turned out to be a dowel that was a hair too long. The current engine is the only one that's made the power that it's making now though. I have an ERL 5 point girdle on this motor and GRP aluminum rods, with custom JE pistons. I've always used GE sleeves and headstuds as well.
I have run both Omni shocks and Skunk 2 shocks with a few different spring combos in the past and I just installed some Penske front shocks before the last race and that's what's staying on there.
Sorry, just got back to work.
I can honestly say i've never had an engine failure short of a set of cams breaking back in the day. I've had 3 motors in this car in the past 4 years or so. Changing them out to try new things. I had one that had a headgasket leak slightly that turned out to be a dowel that was a hair too long. The current engine is the only one that's made the power that it's making now though. I have an ERL 5 point girdle on this motor and GRP aluminum rods, with custom JE pistons. I've always used GE sleeves and headstuds as well.
I have run both Omni shocks and Skunk 2 shocks with a few different spring combos in the past and I just installed some Penske front shocks before the last race and that's what's staying on there.
I can honestly say i've never had an engine failure short of a set of cams breaking back in the day. I've had 3 motors in this car in the past 4 years or so. Changing them out to try new things. I had one that had a headgasket leak slightly that turned out to be a dowel that was a hair too long. The current engine is the only one that's made the power that it's making now though. I have an ERL 5 point girdle on this motor and GRP aluminum rods, with custom JE pistons. I've always used GE sleeves and headstuds as well.
I have run both Omni shocks and Skunk 2 shocks with a few different spring combos in the past and I just installed some Penske front shocks before the last race and that's what's staying on there.
I'd say at least 90% of failures are the result of other problems before too much power. Assembly problems, electrical problems, fuel system failures, tuning problems, etc.
I just want to thank you guys for all the answers given so far. To be honset I did not expect this much. Still, each new answer spawns new questions. sooooo.
Most of the stories I have heard with aluminum rods seem like the would make gread pic for the carnage thread currently going. obviously they are worked for you, whats do you all think about those types for these occations? I mean neccessary or eeh?
next Question, I am on ARP head studs, Keep them, get rid of them now or where is the reccommended switching point to Miller's or GE'S?
Id get rid of them. If they are like the SR20 studs which im pretty sure they are, they do not bottom out in the block like they should. I would ditch them and get some Golden Eagle studs or some other stud that is properly designed.
I just want to thank you guys for all the answers given so far. To be honset I did not expect this much. Still, each new answer spawns new questions. sooooo.
Most of the stories I have heard with aluminum rods seem like the would make gread pic for the carnage thread currently going. obviously they are worked for you, whats do you all think about those types for these occations? I mean neccessary or eeh?
next Question, I am on ARP head studs, Keep them, get rid of them now or where is the reccommended switching point to Miller's or GE'S?
Most of the stories I have heard with aluminum rods seem like the would make gread pic for the carnage thread currently going. obviously they are worked for you, whats do you all think about those types for these occations? I mean neccessary or eeh?
next Question, I am on ARP head studs, Keep them, get rid of them now or where is the reccommended switching point to Miller's or GE'S?
I heard of people using timeserts with aftermarket studs due to the metal being more dense?. What i've been told is that the block heats up and the aluminum expands and the studs don't expand at the same rate due to them being more dense than the factory studs in this case lifting the head on high boost pressures.
^^ We have put them in an entire block and had no issues, I havent heard of people doing it intentionally though. It was a spare engine/block we had forever, and went to torque the head and the threads came out. Didnt feel like risking any more threads coming out so we did all the holes.
What would it cost to produce a billet block? I have no idea, just throwing it out there.
What would it cost to produce a billet block? I have no idea, just throwing it out there.
The dart blocks are supposed to be made to a higher quality. And they could prolly leave some fat in areas you want it if they make you a block. IF Factory blocks were starting to give us problems I would definately give one of those a try.
I cant really imagine that their block is any stronger in the lower areas where Miller is claiming that it appears that the crank is trying to push through the bottom of the block. With the dart block, could the block be machined and re sleeved? I'm really just thinking and trying to spark ideas or hear/see people solutions, I personally would probably never have a need for such extreme items that the guys pushing the limits are needing/making themselves. By that point, those guys would probably have items for sale to "fix" the problem.
Has anyone made a full girdle like the K series have?
erl has a 5 point http://www.erlperformance.com/products/performance-part
z10 has a 3point billet
arizona race has a 3point billet
z10 has a 3point billet
arizona race has a 3point billet
I'm pretty sure you can resleeve the dart blocks. I would say after speaking with them about it that they took an already good product and spent the time to make it better. Dart products makes alot of very good aftermarket products that do very well. Lots of leading drag teams run there products. I wouldn't just write them off like that. A bell housing is $1700 and is not machined complete. So I would say there price is line. To each his own but I think that block would be a step in the right direction.
I'm pretty sure you can resleeve the dart blocks. I would say after speaking with them about it that they took an already good product and spent the time to make it better. Dart products makes alot of very good aftermarket products that do very well. Lots of leading drag teams run there products. I wouldn't just write them off like that. A bell housing is $1700 and is not machined complete. So I would say there price is line. To each his own but I think that block would be a step in the right direction.
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