yo dudes, I'm in the process of making a set of traction bars for my eg. i was just wondering if some one could tell me how to tune them. I have my own theory on putting presser on the lcr or pulling on it but I'm really not sure.
Thanks in advance, Spock

 

actually you need to align the car and do a caster sweep. and adjust from there. thats how i will set mine up, and how i set my friends type r up. IF I AM WRONG please let me know.

 

Caster sweep as in pulling the tires to the front of the car, or pushing them to the back?

 

nah a caster sweep is a function on the alignment procedure where you turn the front tires 10 degrees left then right and see where the caster is. and then adjust accordingly.

 

bro do you have any pics and measurement of your custom set up is it for eg, if so i'll buy the directiond from you and need to know where you got the adjustable fittings from

 

i have easy access to a alignment rack so that wont be a prob. but what degrease would i want to set the caster to? I don't have any plans drawn up yet. just going to make them on the car first and see how they turn out there's really not much to them. I got the hiem joints at fastnall. i got both 1/2in and 5/8. been told to use 5/8 cause there stronger but i think 1/2 will be fine. and i just got some DOM tubing for the strut rod and front bar. maybe some one has any suggestions on the hiem joints?

 

1/2" steel rod ends with steel housing, ball and race (stocked in MSC) are good for 8,386 static radial load. thats definately adequate.

i make mine out of 7/16-20 all steel joints. bronze races or teflon liners add expense and reduce load capacity, so just stick with steel. summit carries them too.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike_belben@yahoo.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1/2" steel rod ends with steel housing, ball and race (stocked in MSC) are good for 8,386 static radial load. thats definately adequate.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

whats msc?

 

a 5" thick industrial catalog. http://www.mscdirect.com

 

Can you order that catalog?

 

yeah, theres probably a catalog request link on their page. once you order from them expect that boat anchor sized catalog for life though! and bend at the knees when you pick it up!

 

i looked thru that msc catalog...couldnt find any left hand rod ends....or jam nuts? anything im missing?

 

i just went through that same issue the other day with them actually, i called and they ordered them through the supplier who is F.K Bearings in Southington Ct at (800) 662-4003.

or get them from summit.. they come with jam nuts and ive used these ones also, 7/16-20 held up fine.
http://store.summitracing.com/...01059

 

how about we post up some part numbers used to make these things as well as tube diameter and specs

 

i was just gonna use some 3/4" mild from chassisshop.com....thread it w/ 1/2-20....start on the longer side of things...and gradually cut them down and retap them as needed till they dont bind as i cycle them...

gonna use a 1 5/8" crossmember w/ tabs from chassisshop also...

 

drumking- are you talking about some solid or realy heavy wall 3/4" ? if so, it will weigh a ton and not be very cost effective.. tried it way back. you typically wanna weld inserts into an 1/8" or at most 3/16" wall tube of adequate diameter.

the longer your bars the better, they will have less arc deflection on the LCA when compressed. what part of MA are you from? im in springfield.

 

im from dracut...right next to lowell....i dont have a lathe so i can exactly just cut up some inserts...and i refuse to pay $12 a piece from chassisshop...

its only 1lb/ft and i need about 15-16" so whats 2lbs or so....not much compared to my whole a/w setup....going to a hollower tube...id save about 1/2 a lb....and its def not solid....3/4" od....and probably slighty smaller than 1/2" id

 

i understand.

life gets better when you start accumulating the equipment!