I searched around and the FI forum is useless,so im posting here.

is there a kit for running 1/2" head studs anyone have a part number?

what do i have to do to the block to run them? the head just needs the wholes enlarged? to what size?

 

The block and head need to be machined for the larger stud. There is no off-the-shelf kit, but many Honda-specialist machine shops know the individual parts needed.

I suggest looking at the L19 studs, works out to be the same cost incurred.

 

We have a ARP kit includes studs/washers /bolts

These have been tested & proven in our race car.

we will never look back to the 3/8 studs

Block will need to be tapped
Head will need to be drilled out (recommend quality machine shop)
Cometic has a program already for the headgasket

Rob@TPR

 

h11 3/8th studs are where its at, if you need a set pm me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by a1320addict &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The block and head need to be machined for the larger stud. There is no off-the-shelf kit, but many Honda-specialist machine shops know the individual parts needed.

I suggest looking at the L19 studs, works out to be the same cost incurred.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

I run off the shelf GE studs, i guess i'm just lucky.

 

Does anyone have anymore info or can tell me where to go to find out more info on the L19 studs vs. 1/2" studs?? Or even those vs. regular 3/8 studs.

 

It isn't the 3/8 stud that is the problem

 

I have 1/2 ARP studs, and I would suggest standard 3/8 studs.

the 1/2" studs make everything a pain in the ***. Headgaskets, the machine work to the head for the bigger studs and washers, etc. If you have an issue and need another head, its not as simple as just throwing another head on the motor, it all needs to be machined and what not.

After seeing what alot of these motors go through with 3/8" headstuds successfully, I know that I will not be using 1/2" studs in my next motor.

 

I completely agree with Jeff.

I hate having to screw with headgaskets, always have the studs eat the dowel pins, it's more annoying then anything else.

Besides that, in my case, they totally didn't do what we all would anticipate they would, holding the head down.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BoostedJeff &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have 1/2 ARP studs, and I would suggest standard 3/8 studs.

the 1/2" studs make everything a pain in the ***. Headgaskets, the machine work to the head for the bigger studs and washers, etc. If you have an issue and need another head, its not as simple as just throwing another head on the motor, it all needs to be machined and what not.

After seeing what alot of these motors go through with 3/8" headstuds successfully, I know that I will not be using 1/2" studs in my next motor. </TD></TR></TABLE> i agree i know eggun never ran the 1/2 inc studs she ran ours and never Had a problem. there is just no need for 1/2 in head studs

 

Just tighten the nut that is putting the motor together and the one tuning the car and you shouldn't have too many problem. Good points Jeff. People don't think about that stuff.

 

Ok looks like im sticking with 3/8 studs

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SwappedTURBOegg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok looks like im sticking with 3/8 studs</TD></TR></TABLE>

Good choice,GE works just fine,as long as ther is no detonation there is no damage.

 

How much can you torque these ge studs .

 

I got ge thanks thomas from camp1320.com

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by choreboy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How much can you torque these ge studs .</TD></TR></TABLE>
x2 and weres the best place to get them from? as far as price goes

 

Hand tight GE studs making 900 plus hp

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by choreboy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How much can you torque these ge studs .</TD></TR></TABLE>

You should not need more then 80ft lbs.
everyone has thier own system of torquing,this is how we do it..

We always use ARP lube..
With air pressure blow out all the holes (hold a rag over it so it doesnt fall into the bore)where the headstuds are to be placed,make sure they are free of oil,water,or metal from machining.(if anything is in the holes it can cause inproper torquing and possibly crack the block at the base of the stud).Then we lube the bottom thread that goes into the block and torque the studs in to 8ft lbs.The dowel pins are placed in,then we lube the top threads,then headgasket.Install head,then lube all washers on both sides then install washers and nuts.Torque using the OEM sequence we go 30 to snug them,then 50 to 80.

Some people say wait a couple of hours between the last two torques if using a ORing cause it has to crush,but we tried it several times and there was no diference.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Aggressive Racing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You should not need more then 80ft lbs.
everyone has thier own system of torquing,this is how we do it..

We always use ARP lube..
With air pressure blow out all the holes (hold a rag over it so it doesnt fall into the bore)where the headstuds are to be placed,make sure they are free of oil,water,or metal from machining.(if anything is in the holes it can cause inproper torquing and possibly crack the block at the base of the stud).Then we lube the bottom thread that goes into the block and torque the studs in to 8ft lbs.The dowel pins are placed in,then we lube the top threads,then headgasket.Install head,then lube all washers on both sides then install washers and nuts.Torque using the OEM sequence we go 30 to snug them,then 50 to 80.

Some people say wait a couple of hours between the last two torques if using a ORing cause it has to crush,but we tried it several times and there was no diference.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Good write up!

 

^^^ but why 8ft lbs in the block? why not say 10, just curious...

 

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Aggressive Racing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Some people say wait a couple of hours between the last two torques if using a ORing cause it has to crush,but we tried it several times and there was no diference.</TD></TR></TABLE>

our torque method's are damn near identical. we have re-torqued the head after a heat cycle or 2 and found some of the studs to be a bit loose. sometimes we do it, sometimes we dont, it works either way. never had a headgasket problem with GE blocks and GE studs

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DaveF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
we have re-torqued the head after a heat cycle or 2 and found some of the studs to be a bit loose. sometimes we do it, sometimes we dont, it works either way. never had a headgasket problem with GE blocks and GE studs </TD></TR></TABLE>

When you re-torque the head do you loosen all the studs and re-torque it or do you just go through them again at the same torque level?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dc2turbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

When you re-torque the head do you loosen all the studs and re-torque it or do you just go through them again at the same torque level?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Don't loosen them