CO_RaceFab

My bars use both bolts and i can tell you it matters little.... Martian you know whats up the ef's got problems. Curtis im gonna be on you all year to try the wider wheels... Ill give you a shot after 4 passes on fresh tires and if you come back with a loss ill throw them in the trash. I love both of you guys but we can all agree that the wider wheels own.

Martian

I hear you on that Nayr. If I would have had the time to put into the front suspension and wheels that it needed, I wouldn't have gone through all the transmissions I did. Probably could have dropped a second off my ET too.

theidealone

I still have my stock crossmember. LOL. I could get some spherical bearings for the radius rods from Progress.

And yea Nayr. I definitely want the Star5 13x10s. Just no money for it right this second. I have SO much **** I wanna do. But sleeved block, parachute, and 13x10s have gone a little further down the list.

theidealone

Maybe we could cut my stock radius rods down on the lathe, and put heim joints to go with my Full Race crossmember/traction bar? Then it might help to keep the LCAs from twisting.

CO_RaceFab

That would work... I was destroyed at the bar last night i keep finding posts i dont remember writing lol.

93supercoupe

i think Nayr nailed it with the LCA rotating. Those spherical bearings should help a ton.

Not that i was ever racing my EF, but with radials and "traction bars", my tires would eat my bumper.

Wish this thread was around when i was rockin a EF, lol

13173

I am sitting here thinking about this....

So what you are saying or your idea for this is to utilize the factory stock radius rods with an aftermarket traction bar setup? I think I see where you are going with this since the factory radius arm bolts into two locations on the LCA and would help to prevent it from twisting as much.

What I can't figure out in my mind is how you would put tension on the LCA. Meaning how would you adjust the radius rods to pull the LCA forward a little? I can see putting some heim joints on the end where the arms would bolt to the aftermarket traction bar, but it seems like it would be a total pain to unbolt the radius arm from the LCA, turn it a few times, then struggle with getting the bolts to line back up and thread into the LCA. This was really be a pain if you had spherical bushings in the LCA. This is all just assumption though.

CO_RaceFab

Thats how i did it... I would set caster at my shop with a tape measure and then have it aligned to my specs at the honda dealer with me in the car.

sanman000719

with my traction bar i still use my radius bars, and adjust like stock would

theidealone

I was thinking it might be easier to unbolt the heim from the traction/crossmember, twist the heim joint, and then bolt it back up. Only one hole to line up, rather than two.

1QwIkEf

iTrader: (5)

Finally got my car on the track with my setup. 1.56 60s all day

CO_RaceFab

Sick man...

speeddave

nice work man! those are killer 60's for an EF. Did you run the sperical bushings in the front, I can't remember if you stated that in your build thread.

Staypuff578

Damn I def need rear radius rods.

andersen

nice I'm glad I seen this thread its going to really help me

FarmYard

you could use a rear radius rod to stabilize the LCA from twisting, or you can emulate the OEM design and use a 1 heim traction bar with a solid radius rod just like OEM, which will locate the wheel perfectly.

13173

Sorry, digging this one back up.

Still working with my EF hatch build. I picked up a set of Innovative traction bars which seem pretty beefy and should handle what I will throw at the car fine. I do not really see the front lower arms twisting or moving with this setup too much. At least not enough on my car to really worry me. I also swapped in PCI spherical bushings into the front lower arms and changed out the rest of the bushings throughout for polyurethane bushings.

Here is my question though. Who has done any subframe bracing? I will be using a turbo K24 in my EF. The rear mount that Hasport supplies with it's mount kit is flimsy. I have it bolted down to my subframe and I can move it slightly with my hand. An engine making any sorts of power will easily move that thing. Also, I have heard that some people have ran into problems with bending their subframe in the EF chassis. I do not want to have that problem and since I already have to brace that rear mount and have a little panel welded to the crossmember where I clearanced it for my K engine, I might as well go ahead and do whatever bracing I may need to do to this thing so it does not collapse or bend onto the steering rack.

So what do you guys suggest? What is the best way I should go about bracing this thing or do I need to not even worry with it?

CO_RaceFab

I don't suggest using the rear mount at all... we have fount that building a cradle underneath the bellhousing from traction bar to underneath the rear subframe is most likely your best bet.... pm me on face book I can shoot you some pics

13173

Message has been sent on facebook.

Anyone else got any ideas, suggestions or whatever?

Tippyman

Bringing it back again.

Interested in what you ended up doing.

13173

I ended up notching and boxing in my subframe for the K24 engine/tranny. I lowered the engine in the front .5" with some custom spacers a friend machined for me. They just go in with the passenger and driver side mount. I left the rear engine mount bracket the same. Then the cheesy little bracket that Hasport used to sell with their mount kit I had it welded to the subframe and then reinforced with steel welded to it.

Here is a pic before I cleaned it all up and painted it.

Black R

^

FishaCrx

So is there a up to date traction bar for ef's that will work with out modifications an it addresses all the problems stated above?

Tippyman

Ya'll need to start paying me royalties, lol.

Xenocron posted this on their f.b. for what it's worth.
Xenocron Tuning Solutions


We have finally found the best front traction setup for an EF!! Kingpin Machine Inc. Spherical bearings, Innovative Mounts traction bars and our new EF front subframe made by the guys at FFE! Combination kits are now available!! Contact - Chrisharris@Xenocron.com for pricing!

Black R

^ but innovative traction bars have no adjustability for caster, and use sloppy rubber / urethane in the forward mounting section.