Tonight I finally got out to the track, and I was able to firsthand feel the shitty realization of how much I suck at drag racing. I thought I was going to be fast, but I felt like a stock car out there, mainly due to poor launches and being really slow out of the gate.

The only times I really opened up my car in the past were on the highway. Wow racing from a dig is so much different. I really blow at launching.

I have some questions for you experienced drag racers. Maybe you can give me a hand and send me in the right direction.

Car: 98 Civic Couple 430 WHP at 14 psi GT30r turbo, fully built block, street tires, no traction bars, hasport engine mounts
Location: 700m/2300 ft above sea level

My best race of the night I did
60: 2.357
1/8:9.174
1/4:13.631
MPH:113.9

I was hoping to at least get in to the 12's as I'm pretty sure some guys run 11's on similar setup's

Tire Pressure: What do you set your tire pressure at?
Adjustable Suspension: How do you set up your suspension stiffness?

When you are launching what do you hold your rpm's at before you dump the clutch?
I found when holding my rpm's too high I would spin and spin out of the gate. So holding them around 5000-6000 I would spin, then lag, then fly through the rest of the gear.

Does anyone know of a launching/drag tutorial they could point me towards? Or can anyone give me some tips?

Sincerely,

Drag NOOb

 

if on street tires, I personally would start at around 25psi and then work your way down,
suspension, you want to have the rear to be stiffer then the front

biggest mistake you made was "dumbing" the clutch, that is the worse thing you can do, it puts a lot of stress on your engine and entire drive train, not to mention makes you start off slow...best way to do it, is "pre-loading" for FWD cars this is what to do:

pull up to line
push in clutch
rev it up to desired launch rpm
slowly let out on your clutch till you feel it grabbing
pull up e-brake (keep your thumb on the button, this will hold you still)
let out a little more on your clutch
when light goes green, release clutch and e brake...

this really helps to knock down those times, and it's easier on you ****

 

here's a video for you...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w3g1kz8Msro
hope that helps

 

You'll have to learn to pedal it in first gear. Full throttle will blow the tires off like nothing even with a mostly stock NA engine. I got my best results launching around 4-4.5k rpm on street tires, with between 18-22psi tire pressure, easing off the clutch on the line, DEFINITELY not dumping it, and keeping it about half throttle through first gear and rolling onto it as the tires hook. You have to really be willing to take the time to experiment and find out what works for you. Pick a starting point, do the SAME THING except for one minor change every single pass, and watch for changing track conditions as well.

Also not sure what you're doing about the waterbox but make sure you avoid it and only do a very minor burnout to scrub your tires, not heat them.

Get a set of traction bars too, your axles will thank you.

 

I really appreciate the detailed steps. I'm going to practice this on an empty road right now.

 

You really set your tires that low? Is that low of psi fine to drive home from track with? I have a 45 minute drive.

I tried pedaling it in first gear and got my best results like that. I will try to learn how to do it better. I figured that would be better than burning out.

When you say
"and keeping it about half throttle through first gear and rolling onto it as the tires hook",
What do you mean by rolling onto it? Are you saying once the tires hook to put pedal to the floor?

When it comes to the waterbox you either have to drive over it or do a burnout on it. My first time through I drove over it with no burnout and my tires were extremely slippery. After that I did burnouts over it and it seemed like it helped. Why should I not be heating tires, and is the waterbox meant for slicks?

I'm looking at traction bars right now!

Thank you very much for the reply.

 

get slicks

 

You need slicks and you need antilag/2step. 400whp should run mid to low 11's at 120+

 

Are you sure you really have 430whp? Your trap speeds are really low.

 

I was tuned last year and that's what the dyno graph confirmed. I really think I'm just that bad at drag and I probably need better tires. I couldn't hook up all night.

 

X2. MPH seems pretty low unless you have a large safe in the trunk!

Every car is different and to be honest traction bars don't really help with traction at all. Make sure your suspension bushings are in good shape and it sounds like you have good mounts. Having good suspension bushings is far more important than traction bars.

Back to racing. Personally I like a heavy clutch pedal clutch slipping. If your clutch is up to the task, practice, practice, and more practice! I have only had slicks on my car twice in the 9 years I have had it. Non drag radials don't like being too hot. A short 2nd gear burnout is all they require typically. Never use antilag/launch control with these kind of tires.

In my experiences part throttle in first gear is unnecessary if you launch properly. Do your best to line your car up in the grove of the track. You should see to defined lines where faster cars have been and the prep is better. If you spin a lot then yes you will have to pedal it in first. Give it a chance to hook before you pedal though. Some cars will spin to a certain spot then they hook and go! If you spin in 2nd just ride it out unless it is spinning horribly.

I have been mid/high 11's on some old BFG's and consistent 1.8's 60' times only making 300ish hp. Nothing special it just takes practice and patience.

 

I don't have slicks and I won't be able to get on slicks until next year. What kind of times does 400WHP put down on street tires?

 

Thank you for the reply. I don't understand what you mean when you say "Personally I like a heavy clutch pedal clutch slipping." Can you please explain further.

On my street tires I should be doing a short second gear burnout? Should I be doing it in the waterbox still? And should I be doing the burnout with the ebrake on?

As well you are saying to never use antilag launch control with street tires?

" If you spin a lot then yes you will have to pedal it in first. Give it a chance to hook before you pedal though."

When I'm in first as soon as I get above 5000 rpm's my tires spin. Same with second gear. I do move forward, with my tires spinning the whole time. Is this normal?

 

To me a soft clutch pedal is harder to feel the engagement point and is harder to slip off the line. Pull into the waterbox and pull the e-brake. Place the shifter into 2nd gear and rev to about 5-6k and spin over your tires until you see smoke and hold your foot on the gas. Once you see smoke let down the e-brake and ride the spin out of the box until you hear the tires squeal then press the clutch. IF YOU FEEL WHEEL HOP STOP IMMEDIATELY AND START OVER! Wheel hop is the number one killer of transmissions.

Anti-lag does really well on slicks but for most street tires you will just blow them away! If you are spinning really bad you should invest in some better tires or slicks. That depends on you and what your trying to do.

The next day after my tune was done I went to the track on some balding falken 205-60-14's and first pass was a 12.31 @ 116 with a 1.9 60'. Street tires do work but you have to practice with them. If memory serves me they liked being around 16-20psi depending on track conditions. My BFG's liked being around 12-14psi and I have yet to try my MT's as I am upgrading my fuel system and shooting for 10's on street tires, full interior, and full exhaust.

 

ur trap isn't there for that much power.. get slicks and go back.. btw 428 whp i trapped 130 with the 3076 in a em1

 

Do not go back to the track unless you have slicks. Launch at 7500 and go

 

I am going to guess the dyno was SAE corrected, so the actual power the car is putting down at 2300 ft is a bit lower. He could have a heavy car as well?

At most tracks you can drive around the waterbox instead of through it, which would help, and just do a quick spin between the waterbox and line, to get the tires clean.

 

what are good racing bushings and lower ball joints?

 

On street tires(shitty tires) at the track I would spin every gear. Get slicks and your drag racing expierience improves 1000%

 

If you have street tires, you shouldn't be going into the water box at all, let alone doing a burnout in it. Street tires don't require any burnout. In fact, burning out in the water box with street tires only makes the track wet, as the tread pics up the water and takes it down the 1/4 mile with you. Really p*sses off the big boys with slicks. Like Snobordboi said, drive around the water box, just do a quick spin to get the rocks off and then stage.

Yes, you need to lower your tire pressure that low to get your street tires to hook up better, but don't expect better than 2 sec 60-foot times unless you switch out to a drag radial or slicks. Yes, it's possible to get lower than 2 sec 60' times on street tires, but it'll be a whole lot easier with slicks. If you do lower your PSI on your street tires to less than 20 psi, you'll be fine to drive to the nearest gas station to air them up.

fm

 

Thanks for the burnout tips. I will try this. You said non drag radials don't like being too hot. This burnout making smoke won't make them too hot? Wheel hop hasn't really been an issue for me. When my tires spin they usually spin pretty smooth.

I have Bridgestone Potenza RE-01R. I will try to let out some air. I was running them at 30 psi. Probably too high.

Thanks for taking the time to reply. You have gave me some good tips. I can't wait to go practice.

 

Was this on slicks or street tires?

 

Slicks will be in the budget for next year. For now I'm going to practice on street tires.

 

The way they spray it at this track you almost have to drive right through it. I felt really slippery out there, and maybe it's because i could not avoid the waterbox. Thanks for the reply about the PSI. I will def lower my psi next time.

 

Another question. Above 5000 RPM in 2nd gear my tires always spin(while still moving me forward). Is it better to:
a) pedal it through 2nd gear
b) full throttle through second to get into 3rd quicker