It'll take forever to get up to temp....

 

Just unplug the fan for a few mins before a pass but remember to connect or to turn it on with a switch

 

or use a GPO to turn the fan on.

 

wat the hell is a gpo?

 

In other words use the ecu to turn the fan on and off as needed. You can turn the fan on at a certain desired water temp to ensure the car is at running temp and then have it turn off once it reaches a low limit within the parameters.

 

HOLY **** ECU's can do that???AWESOME!!!!

 

lmao, the wonders of technology.

 

General Purpose Output...

 

with the motor in

 

Looks good man....

I might be taking your idea.

 

bringing it back.

would this work to controll the pumps? i know it controls a fan but should do the same for a EWP.
if u can get this to work u dont have to worry about remembering to hit a switch.
SPAL Programmable Electric Fan Controller
http://www.spalusa.com/store/main.as...tem=FAN-PWM-V3

 

that's what i did as well

 

yes im sure it will work but i dont see a real reason for it unless im missing something.

you can put the fan on a switch but i dont see why we would when our ecu's have generic outputs for this specific thing. I Dont see why the fan would need to run at lower speeds. The EWP will keep it plenty cool and when its time for the fan to come on the fan does its job then shuts back off. Or am i missing what your saying. I see no purpose in a gradual increase in the fan

 

I wrote it in some other cooling thread but check out the davis craig pump with the contoll unit.. It pulses the waterpump up to operating temp and then the waterpumps rpm is controlled with a elektric thermostat. It has a fan out put so everything is automatic and the target temperture etc are adjustable..

The spal 13" fans that flows like 2 other fans seems greate.. I can´t fit it in my EF because it hits the header though..

Anyone know of any smaller super high flowing fans? That fan man had one that flowed 1000 or so in 10 or 11 inch witch is ok.. I guess..Those were kind of thick though.. 4" I would probebly have a hard time fitting those too.


I have had some thoughts about the honda b series cooling systems.. I know alot of race teams makes efforts to have the water flow from the head and down to the block at even speed across the whole engine block with several inlets and outlets..

As it is stock on the b-series the coolent flows from one side in to the head and diagonal to the other side of the block.. That makes the last cyl takes the hotest water all the time and the engines sees very inconsistant watertempertures.. The b series don´t seem to mind very much as the nissan sr20 engines for example.. I have had idés to route the water in the head of each side and exit on echa side of the block.. But I have thoughts on how the flow would be in the mittle of the block in that kind of setup.. I would be afraid of if it can be spots with very little or no flow.

 

In the big scheme of things you don't want to have two pumps working on the same task. I've seen it first hand where two pumps, on the same volume, with the same flow, will go into cycles and they will literally battle each other and cause excessive surges and harmonics that can be detrimental. Typically you would run one lead and one trail pump. One that does more work than the other and you will be just fine.

I like that idea though.... and I wouldn't worry about hot spots.... how much worse can it get that what the B-series already is? lol

 

i mis-read. I read the entire spal site and assumed the same, but you were asking about the pumps...my fault. Yes im sure it will work but i think it will be fine if you run a thermostat and drill holes in it.

 

In my responce i took forgranted that it was clear you have to remove the stock waterpump and thermostat and just run the davis craig pump.. I have that pump and the eletronic controler but I have not installed and tested it yet..

I just thought of the fittings t1 sells for the crank case ventilation fittings for the rear of the block.. Maybe those fitting fits were the plugs in the head under he cam gears are.. I will look in to that when I am installing the pump.. If that works it would be easy to do a nice clean setup.. The exits of the block on each side needs to have som correct sized restriktors so the flow is equal on the two waterexits..

But for a generic set up it seems as it is overkill when Miller etc can run 8.50 on a stock setup..Especialy if it is a drag car.. But for me for example that has roads over here that are open and free and not alot of trafic I can puch the engine hard for a longer period of time. I would like to puch my gt35r setup on a race cirqit too without have to worry over the cooling system.. I even have a radiator in the rear bumper.

e85 would help alot with engine temps too and a tune that is rich on top helps alot. Not to rich ofcourse..

 

im sure those fittings will fit but they are too small

 

Yeah.. they probebly are.. What size are those.. -10?

 

yes those are -10's.

 

i know it will be fine by itself.

say u install a meziere EWP setup witch i will be using. & it comes witht the idle pump. if u use the controller it will only come on when the car gets up to the temp u want.
but i guess u can do that through the ecu as well as the fan correct?

 

yes you can. With the setup you are thinking basically your using it the same way the start up is on stock. gradually. But i see no point when you have the controls in the ecu. it will take longer to warm up but i dont see it worth buying the extra part.

 

ya it sounded good when i first thought about it but now it isn't making much sense anymore. u don't to ramp it in at all jsut a on of control. i jsut don't want to have to hit a switch. one less thing to have to think about.

 

hard wire it to the ecu off of a bosch relay. I posted that in another thread i believe

version 1.4.2.0 has been updated to allow you just to over ride when the fan comes on. Then you don't need a switch. When i did mine that option wasn't available.

 

werd